Something in my profile makes my builds to not stick to the build plate, can someone help me spot it?

[dndmentil 0]

So as the title says, my profile has a problem that makes the builds to not stick to the build plate, and its a problem since it makes them just move with the nozzle. I have a BIQU B!, and I know that the profile is the problem because it managed to print the XYZ calibration cube. Unfortunately, I don't have to profile to the Calibration cube, as it came with the printer. The profile is made for extra details but I don't believe it is the problem. If you can help me it'll be great 🙂. Thanks to anyone who tries to help!

small profile.curaprofile

[dndmentil 0]

BTW, the standart quality profile isn't working either

[ahoeben 1,985]

9 hours ago, dndmentil said:

I know that the profile is the problem because it managed to print the XYZ calibration cube. Unfortunately, I don't have to profile to the Calibration cube, as it came with the printer.

Just to confirm your logic, have you tried slicing and printing a calibration cube with your settings? Eg this one:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865

 

[GregValiant 1,344]

Moderator @gr5 put together this VIDEO that pretty much covers build plate adhesion.  You might want to make some popcorn as it is a tad long, but he covers a lot of material and it's good general knowledge for any printer.

Edited August 13, 2021 by GregValiant

[GregValiant 1,344]

A .05 layer height is for advanced users whose machines are perfectly calibrated both mechanically and software/firmware wise.  I'm attaching a 3mf project file that has a 25mm cube.  Open it in Cura like you would any STL file.  The printer is a BIQU B1.  I altered the standard profile and it should come up for you as My Profile (Bill Gates should be so proud).

Make sure your build plate is clean.  Give it a wipe with Isopropyl Alcohol and then maybe a light spray with super-hold hairspray (watch the video!) and give it a shot.

GV25X25CUBE.3mf

[dndmentil 0]

Hi, thanks for your help, I actually did manage to print it in the end and with 0.05 layer height. It was just that the ABL system didn't work well so I just turned it off. However, now I have a new problem. I tried printing a mini with supports and they always break mid print, and all of their material ends up sticking to the nozzle. I then tried printing it without supports but... you know... without supports a lot of the staff breaks. The picture with the complete mini is the one without supports, which is good enough I guess. The problem is that a lot of the prints I need wont print without supports

[dndmentil 0]

The problem shouldn't be the support settings, they are something that works and made especially for miniatures. So it is probably some other thing in the profile. Also, I now usually use a 190 temperature instead of 180.

Edited August 15, 2021 by dndmentil

[GregValiant 1,344]

Higher temperatures will often improve layer adhesion and consequently strength.  Fine details usually require high cooling which can affect the temperature of the nozzle if the fan isn't directed perfectly.  My normal PLA temp is 210 for most with 215 for silkies and 200 for white.  At 190 I think you are still on the cool side, but you know your printer.

 

There are a lot of support settings.  Some configurations are great for large flat areas and others are better for details that are thin or at an angle.  Sometimes normal supports are better and sometimes tree supports are better.  Knowing which way to go and how to set up for a particular model is part of the learning curve.  Any user needs to stare at the preview and go through it layer-by-layer to insure that everything is as it should be so they get a successful print.  I always pay special attention to details that start by themselves on top of support and are away from the main print.  I hate when the words "worrisome" and "nervous" come up.  A decent set of Pics, hobby knives, and micro-files can make a difference when removing supports from fine details and interior spaces.  I make good use of a magnifying light before I start hacking and whacking to remove supports.

 

I'm more of an industrial guy.  @kmanstudios and @geert_2 are of the artistic persuasion and can give better advice to point you in the right direction.

Using a .2 nozzle at .05 layer height would give fine detail but the flow through the hot end can be so low that there might be secondary problems.  Everything affects Everything.

 

 

[dndmentil 0]

Thanks, you mentioned that details require cooling. Should the fans of the printer work while it prints? Cause I haven't done that.

[dndmentil 0]

Also, do you know of a way to strengthen supports, making them thicker or something similar?

[GregValiant 1,344]

If you are printing something like a table upside down, the flat "skins" don't need much cooling.  When the printer starts on the legs, it needs cooling.  The Hot End fan runs 24/7.  The Part Cooling Fan is programmable both through Cura and by customizing the gcode.  I often add fan lines to a gcode file to adjust the speed when I know a feature will be a problem.  M106 S0 is off and M106 S255 is 100% fan speed.  You need to do some math to figure the speeds in between as the part cooling fan is PMW.

You can adjust the support density.  You can connect support lines.  Using a support interface can help the release but doesn't work well with tiny features that start on support like the end of a spear.  That would start with just a dot in space and build up from there.  Supporting the start up of a feature like that is tough.  You need to look at the preview.  You are going to make mistakes.  I've aborted a lot of prints right at the start because I forgot to move the Z seam.  It is so annoying, but it's better to catch it than to end up with a disappointment in 6 hours.

[dndmentil 0]

Thank you