S5 "Difference between detected height of both PrintCores exceeds realistic values”

[mihaildikov 0]

I started getting the error "Difference between detected height of both PrintCores exceeds realistic values”  I checked the leveling and as I was doing so I realized that the right B core is really quite significantly protruding below the level of  the left core A. How can I fix this?

[Smithy 1,146]

That is a normal behavior, and the switch on the right side of the print head will raise or move the nozzle of print core 2.

You can check if the switch is working and if not do a manual calibration from the printers menu and follow the instructions there.

[timotub 1]

You might also check if the axis pulleys are loose. If so, you can fix this by tightening the pulleys' screws.

[Carla_Birch 116]

A few things can make that error show up on the printers when doing auto leveling.

• Blobs of fliament stuck to one the nozzles or glass bed where it does levling.
• Electrical interference (this can even be from your body if you are putting bbody part in and around the printer why leveling)
• The glass build plate it self not set right, in terms of the thumb screws making the height of it being to low or high, @fbrc8-erin i think knows what gap should be between the frame and the glass.
• Sometimes just opening the closing the front fan door or doing a power cycle of the printer can make it go away also, likely build up of static making interference.

What you normal see with that error is it starts to auto level, Does print core 1 and it pushes the build plate a little, then it move and lowers print core 2 and then goes to level print core two but most the time it stops before it even gets to the nozzle to push the build plate.

[mihaildikov 0]

I did the tray manual leveling procedure and all other steps more than once but no luck, including calibrating the switch calibration. What is considered the default position of the switch? In what position of the switch should the bed calibration be performed.

[gr5 2,268]

The "active leveling" is performed initially on the right core extra slow.  Watch it do it - it should go extra slow and touch the glass and then I think maybe it does it a second time possibly?  I forget.  But almost immediately when it touches the glass it bounces back up.

 

Then it does the same thing on the left core.

 

The right core should stick down 1.5mm farther.  +/- 0.7mm.

 

You can look at the log files to see what the difference is.  Actually first search for "height difference between nozzles is too large" as that is the message that occurs right when the error happens.  Write down the date and time and *then* search for "peak" and "Preliminary" and look to see if even the passing tests *almost* fail.

 

But lets backup here:

1) First make sure it is performing the leveling properly.  Often it does not.  Often the leveling sensor has issues or there is electrical noise messing it up from some equipment nearby.  So watch the first to leveling tests where it does the right and then the left nozzle.  It should just touch the glass and jump away from the glass.  The two failure modes is it touches the glass and keeps moving down for several more seconds.  Much too long.  The other failure mode is it never reaches the glass and thinks it did.  So let us know if this is your failure mode.

 

2) Another failure mode is the switch is broken as you mention and it tests the left core twice (or the right core twice).

 

3) The most common failure is probably that the cores are different heights.  You can put the left core down and measure the difference in height between the left and right (when clean).  It should be about 1.5mm.  Sometimes it isn't.  Sometimes a core doesn't slide down properly and settle in and is too high.  Some cores are just bad so you could try a different core.  Try both AA cores to see if you still get the error.  Or try an AA and a BB if you were already doing two AA cores.

 

More info here:

 

[gr5 2,268]

58 minutes ago, mihaildikov said:

I did the tray manual leveling procedure and all other steps more than once but no luck, including calibrating the switch calibration. What is considered the default position of the switch? In what position of the switch should the bed calibration be performed.

What you didn't do was answer Carla's question which is super important.  Watch the autolevel procedure.

[mihaildikov 0]

Thank you all, having some progress. The main issue was that the small belts were loose and skipping occasionally. I tightentenm up and I completed the manual and automatic bed leveling and the print started. Since I don't have a calibration card perhaps I got the nozzle too close. Seems like the nozzle was too close to the first layer and swiped it off. The material I am using is ABS and I applied sticky glue for better adhesion, This has worked for a long time so it should be the bed calibration.

[gr5 2,268]

The S5 does "active calibration" every time you start a print.  It squishes the first layer down extra hard on purpose because if you don't then the part is more likely to come loose during a print which can cause a "head flood" which is very nasty to repair.

 

It looks like your second bowden is missing which is fine if you are doing single-filament prints.

 

 

 

[Till187 0]

On 1/5/2022 at 5:57 AM, gr5 said:

The "active leveling" is performed initially on the right core extra slow.  Watch it do it - it should go extra slow and touch the glass and then I think maybe it does it a second time possibly?  I forget.  But almost immediately when it touches the glass it bounces back up.

 

Then it does the same thing on the left core.

 

The right core should stick down 1.5mm farther.  +/- 0.7mm.

 

You can look at the log files to see what the difference is.  Actually first search for "height difference between nozzles is too large" as that is the message that occurs right when the error happens.  Write down the date and time and *then* search for "peak" and "Preliminary" and look to see if even the passing tests *almost* fail.

 

But lets backup here:

1) First make sure it is performing the leveling properly.  Often it does not.  Often the leveling sensor has issues or there is electrical noise messing it up from some equipment nearby.  So watch the first to leveling tests where it does the right and then the left nozzle.  It should just touch the glass and jump away from the glass.  The two failure modes is it touches the glass and keeps moving down for several more seconds.  Much too long.  The other failure mode is it never reaches the glass and thinks it did.  So let us know if this is your failure mode.

 

2) Another failure mode is the switch is broken as you mention and it tests the left core twice (or the right core twice).

 

3) The most common failure is probably that the cores are different heights.  You can put the left core down and measure the difference in height between the left and right (when clean).  It should be about 1.5mm.  Sometimes it isn't.  Sometimes a core doesn't slide down properly and settle in and is too high.  Some cores are just bad so you could try a different core.  Try both AA cores to see if you still get the error.  Or try an AA and a BB if you were already doing two AA cores.

 

More info here:

 

Hello everybody,

 

I'm facing the same problem of a persisting "difference between print cores exceeds realistic values".

I've tried all the suggestions I read in this thread but it still remains. What actually happens is what you describe at the end of paragraph 1): The nozzle never reaches the glass but thinks it did.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Edit: I have a Ultimaker S5 printer which runs on the latest stable firmware version.

 

Edited November 18, 2022 by Till187
Forgot to add some specs of my printer

[arj3090 2]

I just dealt with this for 2 days last week. The problem on my printer was the spring above the right print core slipped out of place and 2 coils interfered with the print core. This made the print core sit at a slight angle. The first sign was the need to push on the print core tube even after snaping the print core into place. I had to completely disassemble the print head to reshape the spring and put it back in place.