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iceron-ranga

Replacement-Part Bowden Tube for UM2

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Hello,

story:

I had some grinding issues with my feeder and the filament got stuck in it, in a weird way. I could not remove it from the outside and could for my life not find out how to pull out the tube from either side. So in a "rage fit" i cut it apart, (I know, i am not a smart man). In the end the FIlament got out.

Question:

is the replacement bowden tube from the shop: https://www.ultimaker.com/products/bowden-tube

compatible with the UM2 at all? If yes is there a manual on how to replace it properly?

Do you think as an intermediate solution, it is possible to tape the tube back together?

 

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How much shorter is it now? Hopefully you cut it close to the ends? If it isn't too terribly short you could just use it as is.

I don't think tape would hold it together tightly enough, there's a fair bit of pressure inside of it while extruding.

And, to get the tube loose you simply remove the little blue/red horse shoe shaped clip, push down on the white collet, then pull on the tube and it should pop right out. To reverse, hold the white collet up, push the tube in as far as it will go (make sure it's seated all the way into the white teflon piece under the spring), and then replace the horse shoe. Make sure the tube doesn't move up and down when tugging on it. If it does you can pull the white collet upwards as far as it will go with your fingernail while pushing the tube down to re-seat it further down.

If the tube for the UM1 fits the UM2, I'm actually not sure. The UM1 tube might be slightly shorter? And I think one end is slightly enlarged. I could be way off on that though so wait for confirmation.

 

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I don't think that's the right bowden tube. I just ordered a replacement and it was 19 Eur. , that one is 15 and has all the clips (mine did not). The part number for mine was 1266. I called and ordered it over the phone.

Your "rage fit" reminds me of a friend of mine who used to stab his controllers with screwdrivers while screaming "I PRESSED THE B BUTTON!!!!"

 

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Hi

The UM-Bowden, available in UM Store: https://www.ultimaker.com/products/bowden-tube

;which is completely compatible with the Ultimaker 2. The price of the part is much too high, beyond the pale.

A repair of the divided Bowden is possible only with a compatible double-coupling, a patch will not suffice here, patched sites are easily pushed apart again, there are very high forces required for the filament transport. The PTFE-Bowden is very smooth on all its surfaces, therefore, shrink tube, or stick together, do not function adequately.

Required is a Bowden: 670mm x 6.35mm x 3.18mm. For a successful eBay search, I would have to inch (0.25 x 0.125) use, I think.

Markus

 

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I'd consider the 15/19€ as some sort of stupidity tax. Ordered a 3.18mm labeled as compatible from ebay now. Meanwhile i jumped the risk and taped the existing bowden end to end.

So far it's halfway through the print (slow, 4 h) that was meant to be done Saturday. I do know that that is no good solution and eventually it will come off again.

 

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I also have been tracing this minor and variable under extrusion for a few months now on my UM2, and have started to rediscover several small fixes. Bowden tube was one...

Switching bowden tube:

I ordered PTFE tubing from several sources (ebay, E3D, amazon), including a new replacement one from the UM2 supplier webshop here in Sweden. I then took a meter long piece of PLA filament (fresh, no grind marks from the feeder wheel) and started to test, running the filament through while keeping the arch in the tubing as would be on the UM2 while in use. The differences in resistance were striking.

Old UM2 tube (just 3mo old): This was my point of reference or baseline. The filament passed through with some resistance, not smooth but "hacky", where it would slide in slight spurts especially towards the ends where the tubes had been inserted into the feeder and hotend.

New UM2 tube: Smoother slide, some resistance that increased the further the filament got into tube (no surprise).

The E3D tube: this was a noticeable reduction in friction. The filament passed through with much less effort. The E3D tubing itself felt different on the outside, almost a little oily. Teflon can feel this way (new cutting boards and such), but in case there was some oil treatment done, I decided to retest the Old UM2 again:

Old UM2 + drop of sewing machine oil on filament:

I applied a single small drop of sewing oil to the tip of the filament and passed it through the old UM2 tube. Not a lot of difference the first pass. But when I ran the filament through a second time, there was a noticeable reduction in resistance. Almost, as easy to pass the filament through as the E3D tubing, but it did not get rid of the "hacky" movement.

I guess I could hookup a gauge and measure the force, but maybe overkill for this... Difficult to quite the inner tinker scientist....

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I'm using this tube right now (http://www.ideato3d.be/boutique/3dsolex-products/bowden-tube-2/) great value for money. :)

 

This Bowden is from 3dSolex. It is about 1.5cm longer than about the original UM2 tube and has a slightly larger inner diameter which does not affect the print quality or the retraction efficiency.

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I'm using this tube right now (http://www.ideato3d.be/boutique/3dsolex-products/bowden-tube-2/) great value for money. :)

 

This Bowden is from 3dSolex. It is about 1.5cm longer than about the original UM2 tube and has a slightly larger inner diameter which does not affect the print quality or the retraction efficiency.

 

Yups I know, but it looks like a new version than the previous one from 3dsolex.

I had to print a clip (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-bowden-clip-thicker-version) to fit the tube in roberts feeder because with the default clip the bowden was not stuck in the feeder.

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This is the stuff you want: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ID7D96O  

Also available in 5-ft. length. When you replace it, a) taper the inside of the feeder end with a reamer to make filament insertion much easier, and, b) use 8" to 10" longer Bowden tube than the original - it makes less friction when printing at the right-front corner of the build plate.

Edited by Guest

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