Yeah, it should be able to stand 360W at 24V (15A) if you parallell the pins in two groups of two.
Yeah, it should be able to stand 360W at 24V (15A) if you parallell the pins in two groups of two.
One think... That github on my UMO+ made the Z went bananas, literally. After uploading that one (minor modification on configuration.h) the screen went blue, and when I did press the button the Z went straight down to hell (well it tryed)
So, that one don't seems to be the UMO+ firmware...
I was able to restore firmware with cura.
The firmware github that DID work, (screen working, and no Z banana) was:
https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin/tree/Marlin_UM_Original_Plus
This one loaded without problems (after removing some items from arduino as daid commented on others posts).
Edit: Well it loaded, but I have not tested if it prints XD Cheers
I wish I had found this post before many hours of working on the machine to figure out the solution.
I got the UMO+ working with dual extruders, and with the proper firmware. Unfortunately, I have not solved the power issue with the heating element for the print bed. I believe the way to solve this issue is going with a larger power supply.
I used this pt-100 from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D176ER2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You will have to solder longer leads and remember to tie both red wires together. In addition, the threaded end does come off, but I had the file the ridge on the end and the probe itself to a uniform diameter. Since, I had replaced the heater block with cheap knockoffs which add a bigger hole for the probe (thank god for less than desirable craftsmanship), it was able to fit without trouble. I did have a problem with the probe grounding itself because of a bad heating element.
Firmware: Pure dumb luck
If you set up your machine settings in Cura to include dual extruders with the heated print bed, and then install default firmware, it works perfectly (except for overdrawing on current).
On the Marlin section the great Amedee pointed me to the firmware builder and it worked like a charm http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10173-marlin-umo-dual-extruders/#entry98827 . I'm using a 280W power supplyfrom the same company that mkes the ones ultimaker uses (check github). It's morre expensive than a chinese one (90€) but has all the safety standards. I have dual extruder almost working (I just need to wait the bowden ptfe glue to totally dry because I modded mine for 1.75mm filament). But the power works perfectly. Bed and dual nozzles and leds + fans at maximum all running perfectly. I used the pt100 that ultimaker sells for their um2 from a netherlands store that had stock and fast delivery.
I'm using a power supply fromthe same company that makes the ones for ultimaker (just google thempart number that you see onthe back of the power supply) it's 90€ but has all the safety standards.
With the amedee firmware builderyou can choose the heater from a list, maybe ine suit your needs?
Hi,
I'm one of those who purchased the dual extruder kit for my Ultimaker Original+ before looking at this forum.
After getting the kit I realized it did not have the correct temperature sensor, and found one at http://fbrc8.com/
http://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/pt100-b-sensor
At this point it looks like the only thing holding me back is the firmware update, which I'm going to work on, and the power supply.
What power supply is used for the Ultimaker2? Can this power supply be used for the UMO+ and power 2 heads and the headed bed?
As @Neotko has found, can we use use the MeanWell GS280 power supply?
http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=GS280
The power supply for the UMO+ is the GS220. Looks like the only difference with the GS280 is a different plug, and the extra 40 watts.
Exactly that's my power supply. I didn't found stock for the versioneith the same connector so I did a 'cut' and soldering and it's working flawlessly. Isn't cheap but it's robust.
UM2 uses the same power supply as the umo+. But it uses less watts on the bed or something like that.
One specially good think of that power supply and the one that comes from the umo+ it's that when you cut the cable you see that the wire have the same color. So it's really easy to solder (I did check with a multimeter prior soldering to be safe).
Edit: Btw the model with the same conector of the power supply exist 'in theory'. I was only able to find it on russia its the GS280A24-R7B http://abtronics.ru/components/GS280A24R7B_good_1770153562/
Anyone knows the correct pid for the umo heater on umo+? The default values makes it ramptoo fast and then slow down. I suppose I should run the pid autotune right?
Absolutely right as the correct PID is different for each individual machine. Unfortunately there is only one PID setting for all extruders in Marlin so far (but is likely going to change soon; I recently saw a discussion / pull request about this on Github).
Oh that means I can't calibrate the extruders (for now) so I should avoid going higher than 240C (because it ramps easily to +20C the target temperature)? Anyway I can wait my hope for dual extruders are on the fohensturm proyect .
No reason not to calibrate the (one?) extruder right now by a M303 (autotune). But if you have two different hotends, they will use the same PID settings atm which might lead to sub-optimal results for the second hotend. If they are of the same type (e.g. a for the dual extrusion of the UMO), differences are small and everything works fine.
Well both hotends are the same. The think it's that the heater that comes with the dual extruder experimental kit seems to be different than the one that comes with the umo+ because I'm getting that the hotend 2 if set to 210 it ramps (visible faster than the hotend 1) then it goes around 230 and then it slowly goes down, also when it losses 1 degree it goes up like 5C before going down again, I did some google prior asking and saw that there was an 'autotune' to be done on hotend 1/2 (saw on reprap forums). I didn't knew that I could not do it because actual firmware. So both hotends are identical, except the second uses the heater from umo dual kit and seems it's different than the one that umo+ stocks, so they heat at different paces.
Hello. Just wondering about the 40W heater of UMO+.
I found some 20mm / (5mm shorter) 6mm 24V 20W Heater. That should fit on the alu block of UMO+. My question it's. Can I just plug a different heater on the UMO+ & if it's well under specs and just run a PID autotune should be fine right?
I ask this because I'm trying to assemble a new umo+ but I have outsource almost all the parts (except the board etc etc). And with x2 20W there's should be enough room to use 2 extruders + bed, right? I want to do this because I already have a power supply of 220W from my UMO+ (on my UMO+ I use a 280W power supply).
Hey Neotko.. i've been trying to figure out the perfect way to add dual extrusion to the UMO+ and the power supply issue is the only thing in my mind... In my research, the UM2 runs a 24V, 25W heater. Nothing from UM documents say the bed runs 25W but thats just what ive read a few places. In my mind, you should have no problem in theory running a lower wattage heater. If I had all the stuff to test, i'd put a bit more resistance on my stock heater and see if I can drop it down to say. 30w. it would just take longer to heat, correct?
I have the heaters sleeping on the box. But In theory they should work as you say. I never even opened the bag that it's in also since so far my dual works (check mod forum) I'm happy. But as soon as one heater dies o cable breaks I'll test them.
Did anyone have any joy with this?
Did anyone have any joy with this?
Do you need any help?
I ordered the Dual Extrusion Kit for my Ultimaker Original+ (with White PCB). Because Dual Extrution Kit only for Ultimaker Original is, I also bought PT100 Temperatur sensor and same Heater Cartridge like delivered with my UMO+ (When I use Dual Extrusion I will not use at the same time Heated bed because of delivered Power Supply from UMO+ will not be enough I think) .
When I assemble this Kit on my UMO+ where do I get the right Firmware and how can I install it to my UMO+? I saw somewhere a link to Build yourself Firmware for Ultimaker or something like that. If find the right Firmware how can I transfer this to my UMO+? Is there any Cura guide to how to print wirh dual extrusion?I know this all is experimental but we all like experimenting somehow.
Use this firmware generator by @Amedee
To upload the firmware
In Cura: Go to Machine -> Install custom firmware, and select the .hex file generated on the Amedee web
Edited by GuestThank you @neotko,
this was an easy to understand guide for creating Firmware and Upload to an UMO+.
Do you also have a link or PDF guide how to use Cura with Dual Extrusion. I saw somewhere first split object than Merge or something like this. Is also imported to know how to Change machine Settings for second hotend.
Thank you again...
On 15.04 Cura you drop two stls and with the second button you can 'merge' them. It's totally automatic, and depends on the order you select the objects it will assign to extruder 0 or 1 each object.
I use simplify3d for duals. Also to do good dual printing on cura I think you will have to wait long time since 15.04 legacy (aka old cura) development it's discontinued and now Ultimaker team it's working on a new cura that atm does not support dual extruder.
But for testing and getting use to how to work with dual stuff old legacy cura will just work I suppose.
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Yeah. I just found a de shop with the um2 heater on stock and also I bough a power supply from the same company that the UM2 stock (but other with 280W). Also a connector that the board uses so I can do a clean cut and plug. On specs the max amps on that connector (R7B but the real name it's KPPX-4P) are:
4 Position: 48V DC 7.5A Max. For All Pins
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/222/KPPX-365228.pdf
That for me sounds like it can support a lot of powa
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