SOLVED ERROR-STOPPED TEMP SENSOR - SOLVED

[ltc 1]

Here is the message on my UM2. The printer doesn't wok at all.

 

I tried to check the 4 wries on the heating board and they are not loose. I think it could be something wrong with the small white spot.

 

Where can I get the replacement? How to remove and replace it?

 

 

[Anders Olsson 136]

Did you try to power cycle the printer?

I had this error numerous times with my custom heater block and the latest firmware before i modified the firmware.

The error message appears when you are heating up the nozzle and the temperature increases less than 20 degrees in 20 seconds. As I said I have managed to trigger this monitoring function several times even though it was nothing wrong with my temperature sensor.

If it is consistent after power cycling though, there is most likely something wrong with your temperature sensor.

Did you check the temperature reading in the "heat nozzle" menu?

 

[gr5 2,167]

Wrong temp sensor LTC. If it was the "bed" sensor it would say "bed" in the error message. So it's the nozzle sensor.

How old is your printer? If under warranty create a ticket at support.ultimaker.com.

These sensors are repairable but they usually fail inside the nozzle heater block. And getting them out can be easy sometimes or at other times impossible without damaging them. Start by disconnecting the wires underneath the UM2 and measuring the resistance. It should be 108 ohms at room temperature (20C). Anything from 90 to 120 ohms should be considered normal. What country are you in LTC? Please update your settings "location" to indicate your country. I could guess Australia but better to mention it explicitly.

 

[ltc 1]

I made a mistake in the last post. The picture represents a similar problem of my friend's UM2. His UM2 sometimes shows the error message as the picture. After turning it off and on several times, the message is gone and the nozzle shows irregular temp on the display. E.g. The screen shows the nozzle temp going up to 220, but it is actually lower than 150. So his printer is still not working as mine.

I should make my situation more clear. The screen shows the message with the "Bed".

I also check the 4 wires extending to the bottom board(heated bed and temp 3). I think they are connected firmly enough.

But I try to unplug and plug again the pin and wire. The screen looks normal, but the irregular buildplate temp remains.

 

I also try to replace the buildplate and connect the one from my friend's UM2. And it can work regularly. So I guess it may be something wrong with the buildplate board.

The warranty of 2 printers are expired. I suppose we may figure it out by your help. We are in Taiwan.

 

[gr5 2,167]

Please update your settings to include "taiwan" in your location.

Sorry it's out of warranty. First you should get a multimeter and work with someone who knows how to use it. Again, the resistance should be 108 ohms at 20C. The machine is probably seeing a resistance > 1000000 ohms. so anything from 90 to 130 ohms should be expected.

Disconnect the wiring at the bottom of the board under the printer and measure there. If it is correct then the problem is at the board or the connection there. If it is bad then measure at the screws, measure at the pads, measure at the tiny tiny resistor.

Most likely it is at the pads where the screw connector meets the board. They may look fine but may need more solder.

This is pretty easy to fix. Some people gave up and bought a PT100 part (any PT100 part will do as they all have the same resistance/temperature curve). Then they glued the part down somewhere else and ran wires from the part to the pads.

PT stands for platinum.

 

[ltc 1]

I've changed the profile setting. But I don't know why it doesn't display below my picture.

Here is the resistance checking result. The room temp is at 27C. I have no idea if the value is in the normal tolerance.

 

[3poro 9]

Here you can find a conversion table for Pt100:

http://dev.emcelettronica.com/files/u4/Fig0058_0.png

To me 142 Ohms seems somewhat high. In my opinion you should get the bed changed. If that's not an option, you can also try to get a new Pt100 sensor for your build plate. The Pt100 sensors are widely available; you just need to make sure the new sensor is properly fixed to the build plate with some thermal adhesive.

(BTW - I now see your location fine on your profile.)

 

[gr5 2,167]

Yes, 142 ohms is high but there could be 30 ohms resistance in your meter wires. Try touching the red and black together and see what that reads.

If you are under warranty I would just get a whole new plate. If not I would order a PT100. You can get the exact correct part number from somewhere in the forums.

Unfortunately the heat plate is the one thing where you can violate warranty - I think by doing soldering - I'm not sure exactly. I think there is a warranty sticker on that connector for the newer printers. But if you are no longer in warranty then definitely go for it. Get a PT100 part and either replace the existing one or place it nearby and run wires over to it.

But first double check - make sure your meter cabling wasn't bad (so check both the meter and the resistor one more time) and also swap the 2 meter wires in case there is some current coming from the UM2 (you really want to disconnect the cable underneath the UM2 before doing these tests).

 

[ltc 1]

I swap the meter wires and try again. The checking result is close to the last time. So I think the meter works regularly.

I found the thread about PT100 in this forum. @gr5 Is that what you mean to replace PT100 part?

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6779-whats-wrong-with-my-heated-bed-um2/?hl=pt100&do=findComment&comment=76556

 

 

[gr5 2,167]

Yes, that's one way. That's a good way. Or you can remove the existing one and put the new part where the existing one is.

Notice that in the second picture the old part has been removed. It's important to do that step.

 

[ltc 1]

I've done the pt100 replacement this afternoon. It does work!!! The bed temp looks fine.

 

 

 

 

[printingtherevolution 0]

Seems like I have the same issue now. Only difference is that my machine is just 2 weeks old. On a print that was about 80% done the printer suddenly stopped and showed "Printbed sensor Error". So after some research on the Forums I just turned it off and back on, homed the printhead, lowered the buildplate and turned it off again. I removed the printbed by unscrewing the screws and looked at the connections. Everything appears to be fine, but I reinserted the cables and tightened them down again anyway.

I also upgraded the Firmware to 14.12 within Cura. For some reason the normal temperature of the printbed is at 38 degrees now. Before the error message it usually was around 26-28 degrees. When it heats up, it sometimes goes up to 80 degrees now and then tries dropping to 60 degrees again. Since it cant I get the Error message as stated above.

To be honest, I am not that tech-savy to fix this issue myself. I just tried to inspect everything visually but could not determine the actual issue. I opened up a ticket and since the machine is just two weeks old, I guess I should get a new printbed, right?

 

[gr5 2,167]

I'm sure they'll send you a new print bed. Don't touch the ticket once opened as you go back to the end of the line if you add to it (bad feature - they know).

38C is very hot for room temperature! I doubt it's that hot where you keep the printer. You should also check the wires underneath the printer - under the larger cover - it's held on by only 2 screws. Rebolt those down tight and see if that fixes the problem. If not I would remove those under the cover and check the resistance from that end. It should be 107 or 108 ohms if working properly. 113 ohms is too much. If it's bad at the end of the cable, test again at the heated bed at the screws and test again on the tiny sensor on the board. Somewhere in that path (or the resistor itself) is a problem.

http://www.intech.co.nz/products/temperature/typert.html

 

[printingtherevolution 0]

Would it be better to just call them? Do you know how long it takes them to send me a new printbed or actually respond to my request?

Also, since I exclusively print in PLA, would it affect the print quality or adhesion badly if I kept the printbed at 0 degrees and printed without heating?

 

[ltc 1]

If the environment temp is not cold or dramatically changing, I think PLA printing without heated bed is OK.

The heated bed is now out of stock, but it may arrive to UM next week.

 

[gr5 2,167]

If you call them they often pick up the phone and you can get instant service. If you create a ticket it will probalby take 2 weeks to get a response: support.ultimaker.com

You can print fine on a cold bed but you have to put painters masking tape on it. Your printer should have come with blue tape - use that. Make sure you clean the tape after laying it down to remove a tiny bit of wax on the top layer. It's easy to do with some isopropyl alcohol. If you don't clean with isopropyl alcohol then PLA won't stick well. Then also print the first layer extra hot - 240C. Then lower to 220C or whatever you normally print manually when the second layer starts.

 

[printingtherevolution 0]

Things got even worse now, the motors sound weird all of a sudden and the main fan is going up to pretty high rpm right away. Doesnt sound very healthy at all.

I think I may have found the initial cause for my problems: The LED strips.

Actually the cables that connect them came loose and the insulation was damaged. I noticed this first on the right side when they started flickering. At first I just used some tape to get it away from that rubber band from one of the axis.

Today I decided to look at the cables again as I thought that they may have caused some electrical interference. The insulation was completely ripped off on the left side. So I took the LED strip out and soldered new cables on and isolated them with shrinktube. Unfortunately that did not help though.

Could it be that because the insulation was damaged that there was a short that affected other components? If so, I am very dissatisfied. Selling a machine for 2300 Euros only to have it damaged by some loose cables of poorly attached LED strips. I am trying to get the entire machine replaced through my retailer since I am not confident that a new heated bed is going to solve anything if the mainboard for instance has been affected by the short of those loose cables.

 

[randyinla 14]

FYI the wires going into the screw block should not have solder on them! Cut off the ends and re-strip the wires to the same exposed length and give each one a few twists before re-connecting. The reason you don't want them soldered is that the solder is hard and the screw doesn't compress into it. Over time, the screw can come loose from vibration, resulting in intermittent connections.

I had issues with my heated bed and found that 1) wires were tinned. 2) all four posts from the connector block had cold solder joints on the heated board (beeping from the screw to the board confirmed any slight wriggling of the connector caused a break). 3) the thermistor was bad.

Ultimaker sent me a replacement heated board that had much better solder connections to the board and a working thermistor. However, the extra cabling they sent also had tinned exposed wire! I contacted Simon @ fbrc8.com and he said the cabling was old stock and that moving forward, they should no longer be tinned. By the way, GREAT service/support from Simon. If anyone is in the US and your communication with Ultimaker directly is too slow for you, try reaching out to him. He is illuminarti on the UM forum and the US support rep/company for Ultimaker. No idea about Taiwan local support.

Here is a link to the thermistor in question from Newark

I took the original, failed board and cleaned the 4 connections, resoldered them, soldered in the replacement thermistor and now have a working backup board.

Good luck to you!

 

[zxen 4]

If you haven't already seen the tutorial with pictures on how to fix this, then see this article: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19485-error-stopped-temp-sensor-bed

I have a suspicion that often all that is required is to tighten the two philips head screws at the back of the build plate so the sensor makes better contact. Be careful - these are pointed screws in plastic - not bolts that stop spinning. You'll chew the plastic mounting holes to pieces if you screw too much. I pulled my Ultimaker2 to pieces to check the circuit board and I can pretty much tell you that its almost certainly not worth it. Your problems are almost guaranteed to lie in that black sensor block at the back of the heat bed on the print table. If worse comes to worst, you should never need to do more than detach the heat bed with a 2 mm hex screwdriver (3 hex screws where the hand tighteners are), tighten the tiny flathead screws for the little black sensor wires with a tiny flathead screwdriver, and tighten the top two screws with a philips head screwdriver. Oh yes, you will need 3 screwdrivers if you need to do that. It will take 11 minutes. Hopefully you've got an electronics screwdriver kit. But first, simply try tightening (gently) the two philips head screws facing upwards at the back of the heat bed. This seems to force the sensor in the black thing closer to the heat bed. That will take you 14 seconds.

The printer will shut itself off if it doesn't get a proper temperature reading for safety reasons.

In summary, just try tightening the two little philps heads screws at the back of the build plate before you try anything else.

Edited July 17, 2016 by Guest

[MakeMore 0]

 

@zxen, looks like your tips solved my bed temp sensor problem! Many thanks.