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Il ya des "tonnes" de tutos divers sur internet. Pas cool comme réponse mais seule l'expérience t'aidera ! Fais des recherches avec ton imprimante, lis des tas de pages, regardes pleins de vidéos et fais des essais...

Yeah there isnt a solution to this at the moment. As the assistant mod said, the post needs to be made on github to get the devs attention. I have been busy with work so I just swapped back to Cura 5.6 for the time being.

Now hold on... Octoprint. e3s1p and pauses don't always play nice nice. I could not get pause to work reliably from SD card. The problem is with the "custom" firmware not really respecting the proper commands. It seems to be a thing with the "pro" printers and that fancy interface. My solution was an octoprint server and running all my prints through that (which uses USB to control the printer hence my argument with the ever correct slashee). Using that, all the printer controls are on my phone or webpage making it no issue to resume the prints.

Le bencgy s’imprime plutôt bien mais tout les parties de remplissage c’est une catastrophe. la buse gratte tout le remplissage et ça s’empire au fur et à mesure des couches.

Bonjour, vraiment désolé de vous répondre que maintenant. J'ai eu beaucoup de choses privées qui m'ont fait mettre cette histoire de côté. Comme beaucoup qui posent ce genre de questions je suis plutôt novice. J'utilise une imprimante résine depuis 3 ans et je viens tout juste de passer sur filament. Donc, je ne sais pas comment faire une calibrations X, Y Z et d'extrudeur. Avez vous un lien pour une explication ? Température de buse 210°C et du lit 60°C J'ai essayé tout les conseils de réglage pour les débutants, ceux de base comme le réglage du lit et du Z-off set. De faire des mises à jour du Firmeware et du micro logiciel (car visiblement Elegoo a sortir un peut trop rapidement sa Ne^tune 4, avec de gros bug qui vont avec). J'aimerai bien justement qu'on me conseille sur comment régler correctement son imprimante.

I would start here: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667410781005

Unfortunately, UltiMaker does not provide direct support via the Community. Please contact UltiMaker Support directly for help with this issue. here: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/contactsupport

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. And if you just fixed it, don't break it again 🙂 If I want to do more testing, I'm sure I can break it on my computer.

So, deleting the cura.cfg from ~/.local/share/cura actually already fixed my problems...it doesn't show the startup crawl anymore, and I don't have to re-enable tree supports every time anymore. I have no idea why deleting that file fixed it, but unless you want to keep troubleshooting, I don't need to do anything else at the moment.

If these are files that have printed fine before now then try cleaning the nozzle, check the front fan is working continuously at and above 40C or maybe you might need to dry the filament.

Put the M109 and M190 before the G28. Technically it makes a difference if you home when the bed is heated (it expands slightly), practically not a noticeable one... but I usually go for the "technically better" option. Being a dual extruder could have something to do with it, so in the start gcode, as the first line, before everything else, put T0 That tells it to do everything with the first tool (in this case the first extruder) until it receives a command to use a different one (which it shouldn't if it's only set up in Cura as single extruder). Also if you look in machine settings, there's a tab for each extruder and they can have their own start and end gcode - is any of that set?

Do the M190 and M109 commands need to go somewhere specific in the start sequence? I still get the same issue with how i tried. Also, considering that it is a dual extruder printer, could that be a part of the problem? As of now it hasn't had the second extruder defined, so i'm wondering if that might cause the printer to not being able to designate which extruder to use? Or does one of them automatically function as the main one?

Hard to tell because the forum crushes image quality after you upload it but it looks like it's underextruding, very significantly in some parts. Have you calibrated the E steps for your printer? (Also helpful to know to try and diagnose: what printer is it, what material is it, what temperature settings do you usually use)

Hallo, ich habe seit neusten ein Problem mit dem Slicing in Cura, V 5.7. Sobald ich zwei oder mehr kleinere Modelle in das Programm lade und slicen möchte, bricht das Programm ab und sagt, dass das Slicing fehlgeschlagen ist. Bislang ging das problemlos. Einzeln sind alle Modelle problemlos zu slicen, mit älteren Modellen klappt das auch noch. Ich nutze unverändert FreeCAD 0.21.2 zur Erstellung der Modelle und habe auch nicht (wissentlich) Einstellungen verändert. Ich hoffe, ihr habt eine Idee! Vielen Dank!

Hi Does anyone have any ideas on this as it is still happening Thanks

Hello Everyone, I know it's a common problem and I've watched countless videos on youtube on how to solve this. I've used my printer for a few years now but this time I don't seem to be able to solve it. The first layer of my print, especially the large ones, does not stick to the bed properly. I've tried to change the temperature of the nozzle, change the temperature of the bed, do a manual levelling of the bed twice, use glue and hairspray on the bed to improve adhesion and then wipe it clean. Nothing. It might be something very simple, would anyone be able to help? Thank you in advance!

You should look at the start of a gcode file you saved from Cura. If there's no temperature commands in the startup gcode it will insert them automatically so the printer doesn't try printing cold. As for the temperature commands: you're right that they're not in there. At the very least you need a M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed to heat up M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for hot end to heat up in the startup code, before the G28. The end code also has an M104 to turn off the hot end but it doesn't have a command for the bed, so you should add a M140 S0 after the M104. (I could rant about a lot of things in that start/end gcode, some of the profiles that come with Cura are a bit terrible, but the temperature is the main problem here)

Are you running the printer over USB or putting the gcode file on an SD card? If you're printing over USB then the control panel on the printer probably won't make it resume; the printer is waiting for the computer to tell it to resume. If you're printing from the SD card I've never had a problem with my E3V2Neo or E3V3SE resuming just by pressing the control knob, doesn't even have to be in the right part of the UI. Also, if you're running it over USB: you shouldn't be. USB printing is deprecated and no longer supported. It's a relic from the days when printers didn't even have enough processing power to read from a memory card. It's more susceptible to flaws in the print (if something else is pegging your computer's CPU, it can be slow to send commands which can stall the printer and a nozzle sitting around waiting is a recipe for flaws) or outright failed prints (computers crash). Also worth noting: With your settings, it's immediately disengaging the stepper motors after it parks the print - this means that the print head and bed can be moved freely, if they're moved at all (or sometimes just a slight movement when re-engaging the motors) you'll get layer shift. Creality printers mostly don't respond to the "Keep motors engaged" command, but you can set the disarm timeout to something long like 14400 seconds (an hour) so you're in no rush to resume it before they disengage. I don't know why you're pausing (often it's done to change colour) but with those settings it's set to turn off the hot end when it pauses and then heat it up after it unpauses before it continues the print. This takes time, but also has the problem that the nozzle tends to drool a little bit as it warms up (which is why it does the nose wipe before it starts a print). If you're changing filament, even if you get to it really quickly it can cool down enough that you can't purge the new filament. You should untick the "Use M109 for standby temperature" box and set the standby temperature to your printing temperature.

Hi - am curious when running the pause print script in Cura. It runs the script and pause the print, however it will not resume when pressing the play button. Am I missing something? Thanks

Hi. I recently bought my first 3D printer, Wanhao Duplicator S4, but haven't gotten it to work yet. Atm i'm stuck at the extruder not heating in any way (currently it's by default set up as a single extruder printer, which is fine in the beginning). This is the default G-Code: Start G-Code G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{speed_travel} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E6 ;extrude 6 mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{speed_travel} ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... End G-Code M104 S0 ;extruder heater off G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{speed_travel} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning As far as I can understand, there's missing a heating command (M104) in the start. I've tried to write it in, but nothing happens. I don't know if I've messed up the sequence when trying so. Also, the bed is heating, but I don't see any commands for the that. Is that a default command by the printer?

So, I'm sorry it's not a plugin, just a post-processing script... but on the bright side that means it's just a single Python file so you can mess with it if you want. Although if you need regexes to control your wiping you may want to see a doctor about that. Just put the Python file inside the zip file (can't upload .py files) into Scripts subfolder of your Cura configuration folder, restart Cura and then add it in the post-processing settings. StopWipingAtZ.zip

I know this one is obvious but I'm going to say it: checked to make sure your bed is level and your Z offset is correct?

Well it means we at least know where it's getting its cura.cfg from now. Maybe try moving (and if that just resets it again, copying) it to ~/.local/share/cura It's not.

Auto bed levelling failures are maddening, the front fan seems to be usual cause as the wires tend to shear off the solder and produce electrical interference. The usual switch off switch back on sometimes helps, reslicing and resending the print appears to occasionally help too particularly with a not reaching the bed case or compressing the springs till the stepper overloads. We have found that not using WiFi but rather the ethernet port has helped alot and incidently with digital factory problems and bizarrely black screen lock outs. Going back a firmware version is worth try also.