Daid

Use metric ;-) or use the scaling textbox to scale up with 25.4 (it's the first text box below the 3D window) Sketchup can also export as DAE (COLLADA), which Cura can read, however, the scaling in these import is still wrong and will be fixed in the next release. (Sketchup always exports as inch in this case)

Goto "C:\program files (x86)\Cura 12.11\" and start the "Cura.bat" from there. We're also adding wiki pages about this: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/How_to_write_a_Cura_plugin

Maybe 8) caused 7) ?

The package.sh script is to build a release. What you want to download is not the latest sources, but the latest release from http://daid.github.com/Cura/

Usually, the front USB ports on a PC are behind an extra hub, this causes extra latency. However, in Windows this also seems to trigger some kind of bug in some cases, as I've had quite a few problems with some USB ports, while other ports work fine. On my Vista laptop, it's nothing but problems. On my desktop, the back ports work fine, the front one causes rare problems, the one in the card reader is hell. The problem is, there is nothing I can do about it, the windows drivers lock up. You cannot even reconnect until you pull the cable and disconnect, and then reconnect the cable.

Yes and no. You'll need to compile a new firmware for dual extrusion and/or a heated bed. But then it will show up and you can set the temperatures and see the temperatures. However, if you have both dual extrusion and a heated bed, it will not show all 3 temperatures on the main screen. I'm working on this, and in my development version is does show 3 temperatures (sacrificing the Z height for the 3th temperature)

No, adjust them, store them, reset the machine, check if they have been properly applied.

There is a build for 115200 in "Program files/Cura/Cura/firmware", you can install it from Cura with the "install custom firmware" option. (It's actually intended for Linux, which has problems with the 250000 baud firmware) The wiki page on Marlin is old and outdated. Marlin IS the currently supported firmware, and the default firmware from Cura is currently running on every machine at UM, and on a LOT of other machines. (It has been this same version for 4 months, with zero problems) After you press "print", it doesn't connect. But after "not connecting" it should show the "error log" button, could you paste the contents of this error log?

It's only stored if you use the "store" option. However, I advice against adjusting those, as while going trough the code I noticed a few problems in the LCD implementation there. So not all setting might adjust properly or are used, I know 1 of them stores the setting wrong, and another only works after resetting the machine. I recommend you only play with the Vmax, especially for the Z this could improve prints and print speed. The Z can move quite a bit faster then the current limit.

The Ultimaker filament is good to high quality (disclaimer, I work at UM, so I see a lot of this filament) For my personal use I use filament from Faberdashery, it's more expensive, but the quality is high to awesome.

The GCode transfer over USB that we use has an error detection and correction procedure, so interference is less of an issue, as there could be an error in the transfer, but it will be detected and there will be a request for a resend. When I see what people use and do for CNC milling, then I see 10 year old tech still being used today. With printer ports being used as IO and dirty hacks in Linux and Windows to get some realtime control. You should not compare the current state of 3D printing with it, as we are a bit ahead of that.

The white clips have been replaced by better blue clips. We identified the varying quality of the white clips are the problem, combined with some bad bowden tubes. So the white clips where replaced by higher quality blue ones from a different supplier, and the bowden tubes undergo extra testing. Anyhow, the bowden moving up, caused plugs, in the V1 hotend. With the V2 hotend the teflon piece prevents this plug from forming. And with the V2 hotend the hot zone is shorter and thus there is less heat moving up, giving even less chance for the plug to form. My blog, with the dual clips, is still with the white clips, on V1 hotends. So it's outdated and I plan on updating soon. It's still serving me fine, but the V2 hotend works better in dual extrusion, and I have some bad bearings that I need to replace. With the new blue clips, we assembled 25 machine, not a single had a moving bowden tube. Now, the tubes are still a slippery thing, as they are slippery by design. But the new hotend, with the blue clips should prevent bowden popping.

Yes, I created it. But I'm not releasing it yet, it's in an unfinished state. As it's missing features like file transfer. And currently all the files are stored on the UltiControllers. And it's not an app, but a website, made to look like an app with jQueryMobile. I'll have a talk here to see how and when we release it.

We are working on a timeline, as well as changing a few other production and development processes, have just a new version of the kit out (with updated wooden parts). So I cannot say right now as too much is happening at once. Note that dual extrusion is very experimental, and so far my results have been "ok" but not "great".

It's quite easy to put a simple wireless router with OpenWRT in a machine and control it from there. Or, 12 machines:

Yes, the steppers use less power then the heater, and the powersupply can supply two heaters and 5 steppers fine at the same time. So 1 heater and 6 steppers shouldn't be any issue.

http://daid.github.com/Cura/?page=Normal%20mode

You could also piggy-back 2 stepperdrivers on top of each other, connecting everything except the motor outputs to eachother. This will work fine. Also, Marlin does have the feature to use 2 stepper drivers for the Z, but not for the X or Y. (The kamermaker uses the 2nd extruder driver as extra Z stepper)

The lead time is an indication, not a guarantee, remember that. The UM SSL certificate is valid till end 2013, so no idea why you get a expired warning.

So far all accounts on plugs that I know off on new machines have been wrong assembly. Where this part is assembled wrong: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ultimaker/8185563116/ (top thing wrong way around, this is correct)

It would be a welcome change. The RAM and FLASH in the Arduino are very limiting. The 3.3v isn't a huge problem, except for the temperature sensor, this requires 5V. The steppers drivers run fine on 3.3v.

The Z seam has two possible causes, one is the raise of the Z, as there is pressure buildup in the nozzle, some material will still come out during this time. (same effect causes stringing) Another is that it's the begin/end point of the loops, and the nozzle moves inside from there, this creates a small "gap".

First off, very nice model! And a great print already. Most of the front "errors" are the Z scar, it's a bit hard to get rid off, but you can influence where it comes, right now it seems to origin around the front left corner of the machine, so you could rotate the model in a way so it's less of an issue. You could try the "Joris" setting, but that's not really designed for prints like this, but I've heard reports of people that it helped. The insides of her legs and a few other 'blobs' are sort of what's left over of strings after the retraction. They should brush off with a knife. The buttocs are slightly too much overhang I guess, that usually makes it look like this.

You'll first have to switch to normal mode, by default Cura starts in quickprint mode, which hides all the settings from you (to make it easier to get started)

3th option on the left.