Daid

If you are printing with USB, you could hack Pronterface to do text/tweet updates, as everything is already done in python before, it should be quite simple to find example of this.

Wait a short while, there will be a dmg with a .app for Cura 12.10 soon, most likely near the end of this week.

Note, unless you running an outdated version of Linux, Cura should never "core-dump" as that indicates a bug in python or your OS. You could also have general hardware problems with your machine. But that's just a random guess.

If you want to give it a shot yourself, there have been cases of a lifted GND pin on the AD597 chip, so you could try re-soldering that one. Should be doable with most soldering irons.

Designed for printing is no different then designed for milling. It's a different process, but you still design your models in a way so the tools work. Even if a mill can compensate for different bit sizes, you still design you model so it can be milled. 3D printing has the same things, take care of overhangs and shrinkage. Same for lasercutting (cut width) or injection molding (making sure molds can be removed, and shrinkage), those also require design for those processes.

I also recommend going to 5 or even 3 seconds layer time. The defaults haven't been tweaked to perfection for these kinds of details.

You need to install: http://downloads.sourceforge.net/wxpyth ... -py2.7.dmg

We made the same mistake here at UM last week. Now we are putting the flat cables from the underside of the machine instead of trough the hole and hang them on the side.

20 micron positioning accuracy with 78.7402 steps per mm? That's 12.7 micron per step, add some slight inaccuracies in the belts, pulleys, and you are not printing at 20 microns accuracy anymore.

You installed the wrong version of wxPython, you need to install the development version, the stable version is horribly outdated for the Mac.

It's not a silly question. What you need to do is, the "prepare" step made a *.GCode file this file you can load in PrintRun. In printRun you need to select the correct serial port, and 250000 baud (I think it defaults to 115200 baud) and then press connect. If you don't know the serial port, try all of them until you have the correct one. After this, press print, and it will home itself, heat up, and start printing.

The main issue you have with pronterface is that it loads all the GCode in memory, that's most likely your culprit. As other then that the GCode sender of Pronterface is as good as you can have it. (Only SD card will prevent blobbing)

Nothing wrong with your print quality that I see on those photos. I'm using quite a few of these bushings in my TITAN design, and they all shrink a bit. Not printing them too fast or at a too high temperature helps. But you will have to adjust your model a bit to account for shrinking. Rotating them around the shaft makes them smooth and run smooth, even if they are hard to get on.

http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Hot_end_v2 http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Upgrade:_Extruder_drive_v2

The V1 hotend needs to be disassembled to get the tube back in the V2 hotend doesn't need to be disassembled. The V2 also helps against poping.

No idea, the only way to know is to test. But you'll have to print slow, at a low temperature (190-200C). With retraction on.

Odd, the defaults have been made to print with PLA, so the setting you have should be fine. Are you sure you are not swapping the ABS and PLA and where printing with PLA just fine?

Changed a few things, but it's still not building for the Duemilanove. Not sure why. Note that the ATMega328 is too small to build Marlin with any SD or LCD option.

That's one complex thing to print, even if you have the retraction and oozing under control then you have long thing parts that can flex during printing.

With the same buttons as in the normal view, but they are located on the right below the object list.

Semantics. Anyhow, the project planner can do this. Place the same object twice and mirror one of them.

Yes. We're adding upgrades to newly sold kits at the same time (or even before) we add the upgrade to the shop.

There are these tiny "mirror X/Y/Z" buttons at the bottom of the 3D window ;-)

I suggest disabling the raft, if you hit an endstop during printing you will have problems, as hitting an endstop cancels the whole move, not just the part in that direction.

Those are hard to find ;-)Anyhow. The new drive has a few changes compared to the Bertho extruder upgrade. I like the fact that it's much easier to open/close and get your filament in/out. Also, buying this instead of building your own Bertho extruder guarantees the correct spring.