Daid

It's recommended not to take off the bed, because if you take of the bed you usually have to level it again. But sometimes your object won't come off and you'll need to use a hammer to get your print off, which goes easier outside of the machine.

Note that I have not done a single test with PVA, but what I gathered from Jelle is that it's hard to get PVA to stick to the tape, but sticks quite well to PLA. So laying down a raft of PLA can help, or doing the first layer of support in PLA. I'm also thinking about making my 2nd extrusion nozzle 0.8mm, this should enable faster printing at low resolution. However, it oozes a lot more.

Sounds like a bad TC board. You can visually check if there is a soldering error, also check if the blue light goes on, and you can contact UM support for a replacement.

Are you sure you did not wire the X endstops the wrong way around? on a lot of kits the labeling on the bottom is wrong.

ah bummer :( that's going to be very expensive then ;( ;( the more stuff you have for sale, the more stuff you can sell remember otherwise people look elsewhere or DIY. I cannot comment about the price (not my area, I do not deal with the money). You could put a V2 and V1 hotend into a single machine as dual extrusion. But that would require custom wooden plates. However, the chances of plugging with dual extrusion are larger, and thus V2 hotends are recommended anyhow.

You can download the design from thingiverse now: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32494 So you can lasercut it at your local fablab, hackerspace or a laser production shop.

Please leave the UM team out of this. There are politics between the Jetty/Sailfish team and the Marlin people. It's a long, and really, sad story. But it mostly is misunderstanding, and ego's colliding. Both firmwares seem to generate very nice prints, and I currently do not know which is better. If I had time I would test, but right now Marlin is working great on the UM. Sailfish is working great on Makerbots. Lets be happy about that.

Note that this kit will have a V2 hotend and thus if you do not have a V2 hotend you need to order a V2 hotend with it, as you need 2 of the same hotends (and we no longer stock V1 hotends) Also, this kit will fit on new machines, which ship with 2 slots for the extruder drive. If you want to fit it on an older machine, you need to cut extra slots yourself or add the plate designed by Jelle. I'm also trying to arrange that more spare parts are available, but I cannot promise that. It's simply difficult to have a lot of different small things to sell instead of neatly packaged packs.

No, they are not up-to-date with what is shipping right now. They are always a bit behind. The sides of the hotend-head have 12mm holes, for a long time now already. Also there are newer drawings here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13571 So those should be more up-to-date, but still a bit behind.

Quick word, I'm currently assembling all the required parts for a dual extrusion kit, which we will sell ASAP. But as you know, ASAP might take a week or two at Ultimaker.

Made for Makerbots, it doesn't use GCode but S3G. It's a lot better for Makerbots, but it's using a lot of the same ideas that we have in Marlin.

Yes, known problem, not sure why it does that, but it does it. The same thing happens with the "vase with ear" from joris.

I recommend getting digital calipers and an UltiController. And PLA.

I think there was a movie somewhere, but I cannot find it. We are using the corner with the fan on it, but we flipped the long screw around, so the large black/alu part which is nice and strong knocks off the object. We also first to a fast knock just below the neck to get the robot lose, then lower to the bed and push it off. On my long list of things I want to do, there is somewhere a design for a fanshroud with a strong side to push objects.

Uh, try a negative extra start. Even if the GUI says it's wrong, you can still try. Not sure if it works, you'll have to try. However, I do not see how that would make sense.

Yes, you can configure both the retraction, and the extra length after pushing back in the advanced tab.

It's a slightly upgraded version of the Bertho extruder. But yes, they took his design and improved a few things on it. I will try to remember that we need to give him credits for the design (if not done already) 10mm should also work, but gives a slightly higher chance to that it grinds.And yes, temperature and printing speed are related, as you need to melt the filament faster if you print faster. But I don't know any exact numbers.

NOW if only we had the automated build platform! Then it would really be a factory wall. How many robots do you guys print at once on one of those UMs? I figure you could fit at least nine on each platform, maybe more. The green and blue printers both printed 100 over the weekend. What we do is we have a special GCode script that uses the printer head to push the object from the platform. It's a catch tray, as the robots get pushed off the platform, this catches most of them (the rest was laying on the floor) The push script is the main problem, it's using the fan shrout to knock lose and move the prints from the bed. If a print fails to detach from the bed then it can create a mess. One of the printer is having extrusion problems that we haven't identified yet. And sometimes the robot comes lose from the bed before it's finished. I think we have 10 successful robots for each failed one. But some failures cause a complete stop of printing, as when the robot fails to dislodge it cannot continue. A proper Z level is important, as well as the proper tape. (we use one that's less sticky to PLA then the default tape) These printers are standing behind my workplace, and I constantly watch them. 4 of the 6 printers are printing fine right now. 1 had a plug today but was running fine the weekend, so we are carefully taking it apart to see why that happened. The final one hasn't been running properly after it came back from the NY makerfair, and so far is a mystery. (I'm spending most of my time on Cura, so watching and checking these printers is just done in between, which is why we haven't identified the problem yet)Note that they had a LOT of abuse when transported back from NY. Every printer was missing a few screws as the vibrated lose during transport. We had to adjust all platforms, square all axes, tighten ALL the short belts and tweak the Z endstops. We have quite a few events coming up, so we need robots, working printers and other prints. But the usually work also continues, so we also run other tests on those machines. Busy busy busy.

The images are not showing. But the blue lines are moves, not actual printed lines.

I don't think Marlin has USB support, the ATmega32U4 is not listed as supported hardware. (this is a different chip then the ATmega328)

Ah, you already have the spring extruder. Nice nice. (I know it's supplied with new kits now, and it should be in the shop soon) Check the tension on that spring, there should be 11.5mm between the printed part and the washer. (As you can see in the other topic, we have printed a LOT of green transparent robots, both have the extruder at 11.5mm) It could be that you are printing a bit too fast for your temperature, you should be able to go up all the way to 230C with PLA without issues.

I suggest the "EPCOS 100K", my guess is that the "100K" would also work, but the "EPCOS 100k" will be better calibrated for your thermistor.

Two of our robot printers where clocking 72 hours today, and then we had to restart it because the file ran out.A flat top is the hardest part to get right. I think this photo (one of my first prints) shows most of the problems that you can have: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111024_195339.jpeg Improved print: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120930_192508.jpg Note that there was lots of software improvements between these two prints.

We're going to put the files on thingiverse soon. (It's something someone created quickly, and the files where never archived)

We've been printing Ultimaker robots: Production of last weekend. Earlier production run. Discarded because of too low quality prints, not just from this session Our factory wall