Daid

The thermocouple and heater are custom parts, you cannot order them elsewhere. (You could not even order them from the company that we get them from, as you need to place large orders) Using a thermister would be easy, you just need to add 1 resistor on the board, there is room for that. R23, R21 or R4 needs to be a 4.5k resistor to use a thermistor for heater1,2 or 3. (And you need to properly configure the firmware) I'm pretty sure we are willing to supply the correct parts to people that want to experiment. But we won't make a kit till we know it's working up to Ultimaker standards. I'll have a talk with the support people tomorrow to see if I can arrange something. Makerbot's dual extrusion has the same issue as in my machine, oozing. But their nozzles are more apart, and they don't have a bowden tube, which reduces the issue a bit. Also, they are quite clever with the photos they took. Blue and green don't show mixing that well.

Not yet. But use the 1.5.6 as reference, they are virtually the same.

It's a known problem, SF for some reason decides that parts need to be bridged. Not sure why. Diaphragm is always off in Cura.

Ok, you can use the 1.5.6 schematics. The changes are at the ARDPWR jumper, which should be replaced by an Diode (however, the boards we have here still show a jumper, could be a mistake by production) Other then that, a few traces have been made wider so there are less faulty boards. But schematic and layout wise it's the same as 1.5.6.

Yes they are. I got them from Ultimaker. You can email support to see if they can supply the extra parts that are not in the shop. I do not know how willing they are in doing that, as they are quite busy already.

Try setting the wall thickness to 0.4mm, this should put down 1 side line, and then put infill in between. The problem is well known as the "thin wall problem", Cura refuses to put infill in between thin walls. There are lots of test cases for this, and lots of proposed sollutions, but going from an idea to a real implementation proved to be difficult so far.

You need: * One extra hotend, of the same type you already have. If you have a V1 hotend, then you need to buy 2 V2 hotends. You cannot fit a V1 and V2 hot-end in dual extrusion. (You can buy this from the shop) * Extra bowden tube (You can also buy this from the shop) * Extra thermocouple (Not in the shop) * Extra heater (Not in the shop) * Extra thermocouple board (Not in the shop) * Extra V3 Knurled drive bolt. (You can buy this from the shop) * Extra pololu compatible stepper driver. (Not in the shop) * Extra NEMA17 high power stepper with JST connector (Not in the shop) * Extra wooden and derlin parts for the drive, (lasercut design for this is on thingiverse. But also not buyable from the shop) * This plate to mount the 2nd drive: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31673 You will also need about 6 hours to take everything apart, mount the new things, fit everything, and tweak the results. You'll also need to remember that dual extrusion is experimental, and that it doesn't work perfect. So you are entering experimental stuff, so expect quite a bit of failed prints.

Looking good! Nice color btw, which is it?

The faster you go, the faster the filament needs to melt, so the more temperature you need. As your small house was looking quite good, I figured it was actually printed slower because of minimal layer times.

Most likely you have intersecting faces somewhere, this usually causes these kinds of issues.

Well, I work at Ultimaker now so more time for my projects because of that, I can work in the train (so more stuff to do during commuting), I don't have a girlfriend (not anymore, but not because of all the projects). So the only thing keeping me from projects is my cat. (who just crawled on my lap)

First off, disable dwindle, while it helps in some cases, it usually makes prints worse. For 70mm/s I would increase the temperature to 210C or even 220C. But you could also have a slipping extruder, could you take a photo of your filament in the bowden tube? So we can see the toothmarks?

Note that this project is pretty much dead. But a few people have picked it up as a learning experience. I learned quit a bit while writing this slicer. And some day I might write a new one.

I think it's just a minor layout change. I'll check when I'll get in the office on monday. And the files will be made public, but as usually they are a bit delayed. For most things the 1.5.6 schematics should do fine.

You got that right, 0.4mm in width, 0.1mm (or even less) in thickness. You are asking a very good question. And in theory, the printer could do a 0.6mm feature just fine, however, the current software is not up to it. What you could do, is download Cura, and load some test STL files into there. Cura features a preview of the path it will print, with actual width of the lines it will put down. So you can see how it will print what you are trying to print. And you will notice that small features sometimes do not get printed correctly.

1) Yes. You would print these pointing up. The Ultimaker can handle some overhang, and thus you can print wormgears like that. 2) PLA schrinks less then ABS, so it's usually better to use PLA. Remember that the printer puts down lines of 0.4mm width and usually 0.1mm thick, so small details can be troublesome. 3) Cura's project planner allows exactly this. I would also advice you to start out with Cura and if that doesn't give you enough quality, then you can always look at NetFabb. NetFabb is a bit harder to use bit give more possibilities to tweak. However, we have had people step back from NetFabb to Cura. Because of the easy of use. 4) Yes, lots of things can be adjusted, and how much infill is added is one of those things. Note that 20% infill (my default) is already very strong. I tried to crush a print by stepping on it today, and I failed. And this was with only 15% infill.

First, make sure your short-belts are all tight. We got our printers back from the NY-MakerFair, and all 6 printers that we now use for production runs had slack in the short belts. This causes some of the problems you mention. Also, the blocks need to have the tensioners tight, i think that's pretty clear in the instructions... so no idea why you didn't tighten those. Must have been the excitement =D

I don't think you want to use an M109 so change the temperature. As you would also burn the wood around your nozzle. If printing slow enough then M104 should do the trick, maybe with some extra fan control to cool the nozzle a bit faster. I cannot wait for the stuff, want to experiment with it =)

I ordered quite a bit of this stuff from the German-reprap-foundation. I think it has potential. With some Cura hacking it should be quite easy to get nice rings in the object, with even more hacking you might even be able to burn logo's in the side, if you get the temperature to change fast enough and don't print too fast.

Are you running Windows? Which version? I had loads of troubles with my Windows Vista laptop, the USB drivers on Vista are just bad for printing.

It's waiting to reach the set temperature, and stabalize.

I made that test very clear by removing it all-together. It's not really needed to get good results, it's a 1% final tweaking thing that doesn't belong there at all.

A "device cannot start" indicates a problem with the driver or the device itself. Make REALLY sure that the drivers are installed. But you could also have a broken Arduino.

Cura should have installed the driver, but you need an Arduino driver, else your computer will complain that it cannot find the device drivers. If you connect the printer, do you see a "device connected" message?

http://software.ultimaker.com/ There is no RepG 34 or 37 from Ultimaker.