Daid

That's currently not possible (unless you hack some files)

Ok, the one with a hole in it right? (older kits came without the hole seen on the photo) And you also lifted the regulator as instructed? (this is the part which is most likely overheating)

190C is a very low temperature to extrude at. You're much better off at 220-230C. I'm doing 8 hour prints at 230C just fine. Are you sue you're not getting this kind of plug:

Sounds like a problem with the 12V supply. Did you install the different "white folded piece" and lifted the regulator a bit, as outlined on: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ulticontroller ?

Clark, can you see if it works better if you select an serial port and baudrate in the preferences? The new auto-baudrate detection might be the problem.

The cancel button is like an emergency stop, as I do not know why you press "cancel", I rather not send anything too the machine. That would be quite simple.

So my printer can do it's job while I'm at work ;-) :lol: That's a silly argument. Because I actually never did any Python before Cura. So I also had to learn it. You should try it, I found it very pleasant to work with.

It's not against plugs, it's against leakage. The idea is that you fill up any tiny gaps between the heaterblock and the nozzle/PEEK with the ABS. But if your hotend is not leaking anywhere it's not needed.

It fails to start on my computer. And you cannot integrate it into an end solution like Cura. It's license also forbids "reverse engineering", which is a bit wide for interpretation, can I look at the resulting GCode to see what makes it better? or is that a violation? It's more a proof of concept right now, but if it works then the slicing time is independent from model complexity, as my method is radically different from anything ever made. It's currently only a few 100 lines of python code, and it does not generate GCode yet. The whole concept evolves around 3D cards an 3D shaders. Which is quite complex :-)

Is the PLA running smooth trough the bowden tube? It should go trough the tube with ease. There are 2 more known problems, one is a bad batch of bowden tubes, where the inside diameter of the tubes was wrong at some spots causing blockage. The other is bad filament with a high variation in thickness (usually this is silver/gray filament)

Kisslicer isn't free. Slic3r isn't stable. Skeinforge is a bit slow, but not that much slower then Slic3r. My own slicer isn't anywhere near done yet (but the steps that it does it does in lightning speed)Yes, Skeinforge code base is rotten to the core, but it's the best option I have for Cura.

"Shells" referrer to the amount of outer lines the printer makes. 5 shells is a LOT, and saying "you need X shells" actually means that you need a certain wall thickness, as the width of each shell depends on your printer (0.4mm for a default UM, but 0.5mm for most RepRaps) So if something says you need a lot of shells, you need to configure Cura to make a thicker wall.

If it happens again, you might want to add this upgrade to your printer: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864 It helped quite a few people with this problem.

That's not true. It is one of the major problems with the current design, but it does not happen for everyone. My stock setup never had a plug. Only when I added a 2nd extruder that 2nd extruder plugged, but the primary never plugged.I finally added 2 sets of clips at the top and bottom, which solved all my plugging problems.

As far as I can see the Marlin from RepG34 should also have the temperature sensor protection (MINTEMP/MAXTEMP) so I have no idea why it does work with that firmware, and not with the Cura firmware... The 12.07 released yesterday has a newer firmware then RC4, so you could see if that makes a difference. It also auto-detects the baudrate, so it's easier to use with the RepG34 firmware.

Did you try the 12.07 version? I only released it yesterday and it contains a fix for some path problems in windows. Else you might need to install http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download ... px?id=5582 If you do, let me know, because then I'll add some form of check.

You're welcome. The new start/end code is done with community effort on the google groups. And the other printer interface options where long-overdue as I wanted to make them much earlier.

Maybe some kind of dirt or something is blocking the nozzle tip. You could try heating it up and then using compressed air or something to blow from the tip side?

I'm using the stock fan, because it's the only design that fits once you install dual extrusion. But then it sits furter away and does not always provide enough cooling with tall thin objects.

70C is the point where PLA starts to go soft. ABS is also a bit more flexible at room temperature. But PLA extrudes easier and isn't toxic. You should also be able to recycle PLA objects into new filament. And I do not think that is possible with ABS.

I just released Cura 12.07, as you can see I changed the version scheme. It's now year.month, as more open source projects are doing. You can get it from Cura's homepage: http://daid.github.com/Cura/ (at the big blue buttons, pick the one for your OS) Important changes include: [*:25izcxee]Improved screen layout, so Cura is easier on the eyes and looks less messy. (Thanks to Joris) [*:25izcxee] Plate cutter tool in project planner. Even if someone uploaded a multi-part STL, you can still print separate pieces, or use the project planner to print them after each other. [*:25izcxee] Improved retraction support, retraction only on jumps now works better then before and no longer skips retraction when going to/from support structures. [*:25izcxee] Automated baudrate detection, no more need to fiddle in the settings if you want to mix RepG34 and Cura. Just use the RepG firmware and it works in Cura. [*:25izcxee] Speed controls and a terminal in the printer interface [*:25izcxee] Pause button in printer interface [*:25izcxee] Fixed the "ascii bug" for windows [*:25izcxee] Load profile from sliced GCode option (only available if file is sliced with Cura 12.07 or later) Other changes are: [*:25izcxee]Use project planner to assemble plates, save plates as 1 STL file. [*:25izcxee] Better retraction visualisation in GCode preview [*:25izcxee] Arduino Mega 2560 Rev3 driver included for windows [*:25izcxee] Option to reset profile to default in normal mode. [*:25izcxee] Drop stl files into the window to load them [*:25izcxee] Min/Max fan speed support, effected by slowdown due to cooling [*:25izcxee] Batch run tool, slice a lot of objects after each other with the same settings. [*:25izcxee] M0/M1 pause support (in both firmware for UltiController, and USB printing interface) [*:25izcxee] Changed comb to move a greater distance inside the model, so combing doesn't scar the outer surface [*:25izcxee] Newer start/end code [*:25izcxee] More tags to be used in the start/end code to save information in your GCode file [*:25izcxee] Removal of the log file (it's no longer needed) [*:25izcxee] Default to a 115200 firmware if running Linux Have fun with it! I know you will. I know you just HAVE to download it now. Come and join the Cura side, you cannot resist it! (We have cookies)

Sounds like you're talking about the PrintrBot, we'll see how that one holds up against an UM. Ultimaking just receiver a PrintrBot (inside information is fun sometimes). And a friend of mine hopes to receive his PrintrBot soon, but he is around position 1600 on the list.

First, everything is fixable, so don't worry. Second, there are a few things you should check. First, check if the filament at the motor, where it's touching the special bolt. If it's grinded down then the bolt cannot grap it anymore and push it in. Secondly, release the "quick release", heat up your machine, and try pushing trough the filament by hand. This should be quite easy if you are at 220C. If you cannot push it, then you have the infamous plug. If you cannot even pull the filament out, then you might have a bad bowden tube, or filament which is too thick. But both are more rare then the plug. This plug happens between the PEEK part of the hotend, and the bowden tube. It can have a few different causes, but in general it's the bowden tube that's slipping up. See: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/images/Bowden_plug.gif Too check if it's a plug you need to unscrew the bottom part of your hot-end. DO NOT disassemble the PEEK part or the brass parts. It's not needed, and those break easy. Just unscrew the long 4 screws, that should give you access to the trouble area.

It depends on your table. Mine was standing on a small wooden IKEA desk which vibrated with the machine, making all objects on the table vibrate with it. But some normal soft padding might also help.

People have experimented with 10mm/s but then they had missed steps in the Z direction which is pretty bad for your print. You are free to set a different max feedrate in Marlin, you can use M203 Z... to set the max feedrate. And use M201 Z... to set the acceleration. Default acceleration is 100, default max feedrate is 5. The weight of the platform is what keeps the feedrate low, as lots of weight it is harder to move it (Ask Newton for details). But I think if you tweak the acceleration right you can achieve higher Z speeds. However, for the Z blob I don't think it will help because that move is very short and it might never reach full speed.