Daid

Hi bersandro, With ReplicatorG and the 5D firmware, you are using very old software. I highly recommend Cura, which solves a lot of software issues for beginners. https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki You are running windows, so running Cura should be no problem at all.

Yes, the electronics fan runs on 12V. Most likely it's the fan that died.

Maybe OpenSCAD can help you. You could create different intersections with a cube and your model.

Most likely the dimension plugin is off then. Which was the most common case of not extruding. Simon figured out how to install Cura on a bare MacOS install: http://www.extrudable.me/2012/06/30/cura_on_mac_os_x/ maybe that can help. It still requires some commandline foo.

Most likely you have a setting wrong somewhere in Skeinforge (if you are using ReplicatorG). May I propose Cura as a fix? https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25587

1) Check with UM support if you have on of the bad bowden tubes. There have been a few kits with tubes with narrow sections in them. 2) You can compress the filament with the extruder to an amount that it will no longer fit in the tube. Which was my first major failure. It will take a LOT of force to get this out, and caused a lot of frustration for me. If this is your case, good luck.

A few. First, check if the step motor driver is properly configured: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers Also, you can check if the endstops are properly working, maybe they are shorted out causing the machine to think the printerhead is at the end all the time and thus refuses to move. You can also try to swap out the X and Y motor connectors to see if the problem is with the motor or the electronics. If it's in the electronics, try swapping the step motor driver from X and Y (small boards).

No plug is good, but maybe your extruder is now grinding at the filament. Then tension bolt there could be too tight or weak.

These work very well! I recommend printing one.

I mist the photo, sorry. I've seen roughness like that before, for me it was the extruder that was slipping at higher speeds.

I don't work for Ultimaker. I just like them.@thevoltmaster: Especially if you do retraction then printing with a too high temperature can plug the extruder.

Outside in general, it will take a long time. It requires a steady higher temperature to decompose.

I've seen it happen before, and I'm still not sure if it's my mistake in the preview, or that Skeinforge does something strange. However, the path is still correct in this case, only the type seems wrong.

Putting the SD card in the computer is the most efficient way, it is possible to upload them trough the USB channel, but that is so slow that it's not worth it.

If you stick out the tube too far you will compress it which also can cause problems. However, I did this and it has not caused problems yet. The white clip is essential! If you tube slips then you have a big problem. This is actually one of the biggest problems with the Ultimaker design in it's current form. Also, make sure that the end of the tube is straight cut. If it sits at an angle on the PEEK then you will have problems. Owens bowden clamp is often used to fix the tube: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864 However, you need to be able to print for a while to build it. I actually have 2 white clips on my tube to keep it from slipping, at the top and bottom. But you need to source extra clips from somewhere then. And you need to modify the top plate. There are more solutions: https://groups.google.com/d/topic/ultim ... discussion https://groups.google.com/d/topic/ultim ... discussion http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25867 It's a often discussed problem, if you look around you will find more topics talking about it. With simple and complex solutions. I recommend to print at 230C or lower, at higher temperature there is more heat going up the tube, which gives a bigger chance for plugs.

In ReplicatorG you need to save the model file before you slice it, else it will not use the new orientation.

It could be a bowden plug. It is possible that the tube slides upwards due to pressure and then a plug can form between the PEEK and the tube. see: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/images/Bowden_plug.gif for an graphical explanation. You need to disassemble the hotend a bit to check if this is really happening.

I REALLY wished I could have posted something more useful. But at least you know something is cooking somewhere.

I just got my answer. Sorry. I cannot tell you anything yet.

I'll get back on this soon, I'm not sure if I'm allowed to share my new info yet.

1) Printed belt tensioners are not uncommon on Ultimakers. I just replaced mine with these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19892 2) The rods should be square and parallel. You square it out in this step: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev ... e_XY-frame 3) The assembly works. Don't worry about it.

Depending on the amount of overhang on your model it might just work fine. The setting is not so bad that it messes up your whole print, it just comes out a bit better with the default in most cases.

Yes there is. It's how I created the cat gears keychain: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23589 First, you'll need the latest firmware. The one in Cura currently lacks this feature. You can build it using: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ Next just slice the GCode as you normally would. Then find the layer number at which you want to stop, and insert this code after the ;LAYER:xxx comment: G1 E-5 F6000G1 X190 Y190 F9000M0G1 X0 Y0 F9000G1 E0 F6000 The UltiController will halt at the M0 and wait for a press of the button before it continues printing. I'm working towards actually supporting this better in Cura for the next release.

I don't think it will work, because the idea behind the heated bed is that you keep the bottom warm enough to stick to the bed. (as warm plastic gets sticky)