Daid

The length should be pretty accurate, unless your filament slips. The weight is guessed by filament diameter and the density preference which is 1300 kg/m3 for PLA, and you need to set it to 1040 for ABS. However, I do not have a scale, so I've never actually checked the results As for the material amount changing if you change the speed. Skeinforge has some inaccuracies which might cause some slight fluctuations, but I wouldn't expect big changes.

The firmware limits this to 5mm/s. It can reduce the Z scar a bit, but it's not that important as a setting. However, some machines are experiencing missed steps at the Z at some speeds, so then it's important to lower it.

The time is mostly wrong when the printer has to make a lot of small moves, due to acceleration these take more time then calculated by Cura. (In general, I seem to get 25% more time spend in the print then estimated, but I've had a 3 hour estimate take 6 hours!) Not sure what you are saying about the material amount...

I actually uploaded a release friday, but I did not announce it yet, because I wanted to test it first (I'm testing the actual version that I upload, to make sure I test what I release). But I found a critical bug that I want to fix first so I pulled the downloads. It only had 2 downloads, so I don't think anyone really has that version yet. Expect it to be released somewhere next week.

I see 3 problems with that. 1) I see some melted tips, most likely doe to the cooldown. Try setting the "minimal feedrate" a bit higher in the expert settings. The defaults on this could use some improvements. You can also lower the minimum layer time. This accounts for most of the bad stuff you see on the tips. 2) When going from object to object it's using the "switch_object.gcode" at the start/end gcode tab. You can adjust this if you want. It does a retraction, and a move up and then to the next object. 3) The screwless gear cubes don't work very well at 50% scale. The pin connectors seem to be very lose then.

The Marlins in RepG are generally slightly older then those found in Cura. The Marlins found in RepG24 are very old. But the Marlin found in RepG34 will function very good without problems. I think this is the Marlin branch for Ultimaker: https://github.com/ErikDeBruijn/Marlin

Most likely it's a random customs check, or a delay due to equipment failure at DHL. You don't have to worry about it, as it send from within Europe so it will clear customs without problems.

I think the reason for them not telling what they are developing right now is so people don't get their hopes up and start to inquire about it all the time. When the first signs of the UltiController where shown it took quite a while to get from prototype to production. During this time people where like "Why I can't I buy it yet? I've seen it!". It's hard to see for people that going from "finished production data" to "products on the shelve" can take months. And Ultimaking is doing research and development, and not everything during research will make it into products. We've seen prototypes of a heated bed at the first Ultimaker evening. But those prototypes where not active and where used as normal cold beds. So I'm guessing that had some troubles with those prototypes. I've had an UltiController, ready and working, straight from the UM HQ, from a production run (as far as I can tell), more then a month before it was released in the shop. (FYI: With no wooden enclosure, and the wrong type of SD card) I've seen, at UM HQ, some kind of prototype hotend they where experimenting with. This was the same day that I got my UltiController. No idea what the experiment was about, no idea if it will ever make it into the product. No idea if they are still experimenting with it. I have, thanks for UM, dual extrusion in my machine. But I could make a long list of troubles with it, starting with just assembly problems. Don't expect a dual extrusion kit very soon I think. They have (thanks to my evil twin) upgraded ReplicatorG to version 34. So what are they working on? A lot. What will be finished and when? No idea. I do have something new. But I'm not allowed to talk about that yet. When will I be allowed to talk about it? No idea. Do I have a blog post ready for when I do? You bet ya.

The firmware supplied with RepG25 does not have the temperature sensor protection features, so that's why it "works" with those versions.

An MAXTEMP or MINTEMP error indicate a problem with your temperature sensor, you need to check if all wires are properly connected. Especially the red/yellow wire, if they are screwed in tightly. It's something the firmware checks, not Cura.

It requires tweaking. And sometimes you have filament that has a different thickness throughout the roll, a sudden increase in thickness can also cause it to jam. People are working on different ideas to fix it. For example: https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgr ... -BEHdvkDs8

The problem is the grip from the extruder drive. It grinds into it very easy. Maybe the V3 bolt will work better, but I thing you need some kind of extruder that puts the pressure on more surface area.

It looks like you are under-extruding, so not enough material is coming out. 210C should be fine, but you could up it to 230C to see if that prints better. Check the actual filament diameter versus the configured diameter. Measure the filament on multiple locations to get a good average. (Some UM PLA is found to be quite thin) 872.8 is fine for the steps per E. The knob usually can be tighter, it should leave clear marks in the filament, with light marks it can still skip. Another thing I use to check tension of the knob: During printing, put your finger below the input of the PLA, below the big gear, on the filament. This way you can feel the filament being pulled into the drive mechanism. If you do this then you can feel if it slips, because when it slips it will pull back a bit or the speed at which it is pulled in is uneven.

At what temperature are you printing? Is your filament tension knob thigh enough? What was the value you got for the "steps per E" calibration?

You don't need dual extrusion for the M0 M1 tweak. And there is only 1 firmware, the Ulticontroller doesn't have any firmware (all is handled by the Marlin firmware)

A gift for a friend. Printed in Magenta from Ultimaker. If you are ordering from UM, I recommend getting a 0.75kg roll of Magenta, it's a really funky color that stands out. You get a sweet taste in your mouth by just looking at it.

I have a 100m roll of flexible black from Ultimaker. I've only used a few meters of it and I found it almost impossible to print with it.I'm planning to give away some to people who want to try it on the next Ultimaker evening.

You've done nothing wrong. The printer bed is large enough to have an hotend both in the left and right holes. Like this: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120426 ... .small.jpg And indeed, the default fan shroud hits the bed holder. I'm surprised that you are the first person to post about it (I forgot about it) As long as you don't use 210 but only 205mm of the bed you'll do fine. Different fan shroud will also solve it (there are a few of those on thingiverse)

The next release of Cura will work out of the box with the RepG firmware, due to new auto-detection of baudrate I added. I hope to release it somewhere this month.

4. with the steppers enabled the head is almost fixed and hard to move by hand, if you disable the steppers it will be easy to move the printer head by hand. The steppers will automatically enable if you move the head.

There are 2 reasons why I've added feet to my printer. First is to get a bit more room beneath the printer (with my modifications it's already a wire mess, and it's going to get worse) Second is to reduce the amount of vibrations transferred to the table, to reduce the amount of noise. I used the soft PLA for this.

I would first check the GCode to see if those slanted tops are in the GCode or a mechanical effect

On which layer do you enable the fan? Maybe you can try printing the first layer, or the first few layers with the fan off. (Cura supports this as an option in the expert settings)

How about taking photos from an angle where the seam is not visible? ;-) There is the "Joris" setting in Cura. This gets rid of the seam in some cases, but only if you print hollow with only 1 line. And the pink panther woman is not suited for that (her breasts will not work)

It's the "seam" or "z-ridge". It's almost impossible to get rid off completely.