Daid

Ok. Yes, UM support does not support Cura (yet?) their support staff has to deal with a lot of issues, from hardware to software. So they only want to support one software package, one that they control. Which should be understandable. In my own opinion, I think RepG is harder to support then Cura. But when they had to select software, Cura did not exist yet. For these kinds of issues the forums usually get a faster response anyhow, because the community has a lot more people, and these problems are not uncommon. PLA will always ooze a bit from the tip of the nozzle, but it shouldn't leak out of the sides. But in some cases it does leak from the connection between the heater and the PEEK or the connection between the heater and the nozzle. In that case you can use ABS to seal it, or disassemble everything and insert a tiny bit more teflon tape. In Cura the first layer has a different thickness then the rest of the layers, in normal mode you can configure this in the advanced tab. The default is 0.3mm, which should provide a pretty thick first layer which sticks easier to the bed. (Getting a 0.1mm layer to stick properly, and come off without damaging the tape is very hard) It should extrude enough filament at the beginning of the print. However if you let the nozzle drip empty, because you heated it up and waited a long while. Then the beginning of the print will have too little plastic. A quick remedy is to turn the big gear by hand at the start of the print if you see there is little to no plastic coming out. You won't damage the machine in any way, it can handle this.

The steppers and drivers are currently quite a chunk of the total cost of the machine. For high end industrial hardware the cost is not an issue, for something like the Ultimaker it is.

First test for stackable boxes which use a very low amount of plastic and thus are quick to print. A bit like lego bricks, but less stable. I have some more plans for these.

It's possible, but not in simple mode. In normal mode you can choose between 3 different support options. Easy mode uses "exterior only" if you enable support. But in your case you want "everywhere".

You need the ulticontroller setting then. But both will work, the UltiPanel is the "beta" version, the only difference is that the knob is wired differently and thus will rotate the wrong way around if you select the wrong one.

Retraction will help against the strings. The strings also connect the support to the model, making it harder to remove. The next release of Cura will feature retraction when moving from/to support if you have retraction enabled. You could also try to lower the support material amount even more (25% or so) too see if that makes it easier to remove.

Most likely it is one of the the axes moving against the end caps and back. Try to find out if the noise comes from the endcaps. But just to be sure, after you adjust the tension of the long belts it is recommended to unscrew the pulley at the ends where there is no motor, and screw the tight again, so the top and bottom of the belt have about the same tension.

Going to get? Don't you think you already have Keep on printing ;-) don't forget to show your results here.

If you open an STL file it will automatic also load the [filename]_export.gcode if Cura can find it. But you can also use PrintRun to print GCode, which can load any GCode file.

Few things. 1) This is the first time I hear that support blames Cura for bad prints. Makes me kind of sad. I know they don't officially support it. But I didn't know they where going to play the blame game. 2) Your 2nd photos shows some signs of too little belt tension, you can see the infill is not connecting to the outline. 3) The bumps in the first layer you see in the 2nd photo are most likely caused by a bed which is set slightly to high at the start. The printer is extruding material for a 0.3mm layer (if you are using default settings), but if your bed is slightly higher then it is printing an excess amount of material. This excess material is pushed upwards. 4) 190C is very low. I almost never print below 210C. Most likely you are grinding your filament, or it's slipping because the amount of force required to print at 190C is very high. I highly recommend printing at 230C for starters. 5) Cura can run with the 115200 baudrate firmware found in RepG34, you need to change the baudrate in the preferences of Cura. And install the firmware from RepG34. You can also install custom firmware with: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ (The firmware in Cura is made with this builder)

It's normal behavior with software endstops enabled. Guess the default Ultimaker firmware has this. You need to use the home function first (if that is available in RepG, been a long time that I used RepG)

I have a dual extrusion Ultimaker. So no need to stop However, I implemented M0/M1 to insert a pause into the print. Some more info can be found at my cat gears key chain: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23589 The "crash" when inserting the SD card is fixed in newer firmware versions.

Most things related to printing directly from within Cura are not tested when I add them, because I always print with SD. So I have to setup my laptop specially to test those things.I do test everything before I release a new stable version. I do not want to risk a "stable" release with critical bugs.

You would have to remove the top of the printer head, which can be done without disassembling the axes or the box. You do need to remove the 4 long screws that hold the whole assembly together. You need to remove the top plate to remove the 2 bolts that hold the PCB in place. But only remove the diode and install a wire-patch if you feel comfortable doing this. Else just wait a bit for Ultimaker support, they might have a different insight then me.

Now that's a headline to grab attention. But nothing to worry about. I added an suicide option to my Ultimaker, so it can switch off after printing. I've done some documentation at: http://daid.eu/blag/2012/07/03/ultimaker-suicide/ Photos will follow a bit later. If people are interested in this upgrade: I still have parts to do this 4 more times. However, the parts are less expensive then the shipping. And most of the work goes into soldering, wiring everything up. But I wouldn't mind helping building/installing this into dutch machines at the next UltiEvening for example.

What is happening is that the UltiController LCD display gets glitched by the SD insertion. The controller still works (you can hear it beep) but nothing is displayed anymore. Or garbage is displayed. A newer version of the firmware fixes this. You can build newer firmware with: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/

A possible cause then could be that the D1 diode is broken. On this image: http://www.reprap.org/mediawiki/images/ ... icture.png As this is a protection diode against reverse current, you could try removing it and adding a tiny wire bridge. If your soldering skills are up to it.

The blue led should shine as soon as it gets 5V power. It even shines if only USB is connected and the main power is off.

It's not available.

If there is 200mV on the outer pins then there could be a problem with your Arduino or your Ultimaker electronics. The left most pin (having the 200mV) should be connected to Analogue pin 8 on the Arduino. (compared to GND) You should be able to measure the 200mV there. Did you also replace the Arduino or only the Ultimaker electronics?

There should be a blue light on top of the head. Like this: http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:TC-0.9- ... ned_on.JPG With the multimeter, measure the voltage between the center pin of the 3 pin connector, and the one closest to the edge of the board. There should be 5V here. Measure the same on the electronics side to see if you might have a defective cable or a defective board. The voltage between the outer 2 pins should be 10mV per C, so about 200-300mV on a room temperature Ultimaker. However, if there is no 5V on the other pin, then there will be no proper voltage on this pin. Also, because you'll most likely have defective parts, I recommend you contact support at some point, maybe after figuring out which parts is defective so they can respond quicker. (I'm just a Ultimaker fan, but official support by email can ship replacement parts in case of defective parts. But support is always quite busy, so the less diagnosing they have to do, the quicker they can be)

Set the infill amount to zero percent? Depending on which slicer you use, you can also model the "hollow" part as a 2nd mesh inside of the same model. For Cura this would work fine. (Try the basic case first, a cube with a 2nd smaller cube inside of it)

The MAX TEMP trigger means it's reading a temperature over 275C, at which point the Firmware decides "no way this is safe, I better switch off!" Checklist: Is the blue light on? Is the 3 pin temperature cable properly connected on both ends? Make sure it's firmly inserted. And connected to temp1 not temp2 or temp3. There should be no resistors at locations R4,R21 and R23. These empty spots are slightly below the Temp1 connection. See: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/images/Circuit_complete.jpg (I've never seen someone report that they where placed, but it never hurts to check) As a follow up question, do you have a multimeter?

During the first run wizard you are asked to move the head to the centre of the machine. This can be done by hand at that point (motors are powered off). Then you are asked to push the end switches, this needs to be done by hand. This is to check if the end switched are wired up correctly and in the correct place. Finally it tries to heat up for 20 seconds to see if your heater and temperature sensor work. You don't need to use PrintRun at these steps. (And you don't need to use PrintRun at all, some people just prefer PrintRun over Cura's simplistic printing interface)

It was a few versions ago, support did not work at all. And I was getting some strange slice results. I've been too busy with other things to try it again, and I know Slic3r is moving fast.