Daid

https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and ... it-v1.html Says an 0.4mm nozzle. But it could be slightly smaller I guess. Maybe they mean "a nozzle that prints 0.4mm lines optimal"

You want to measure voltage (not current, current is something else). The correct setting for this is the "V" with the line with dotted line beneath it. This means "DC voltage", the other V setting is AC voltage. (with the wobbly line) In the photo it's on the correct setting, but I would put it on the 20 setting instead of 200, as you will never get more then 20V anywhere on the Ultimaker electronics.

Sure, most settings are the same as Cura's defaults. The details can be found in simpleMode.py. But the main differences are: Layerheight 0.2 for normal, 0.1 for high quality. Wall thickness 0.8 for normal, 1.2 for high quality Print speed 50 for both Fill density 20% for normal, 30% for high quality.

I couldn't find anything around these forums that explains how to specify a profile.ini for command line slicing. I tried a couple of things but it didn't work either. Got command line instructions for me Daid? you need to run "python cura.py -h" to see the help options. "python cura.py model.stl -i profile.ini" will slice the model with the selected profile.

no, that is one of the biggest shortcoming cura is facing at the moment: the lack of differentiated speeds. daid decided that for simplicity (which is really good in the beginning if you just want to get something printed), that one speed for everything is fine. after months of printing, and slicing, the requirements change, and more complex print jobs require more different speeds. One of the big problems with Skeinforge is that I cannot get it to differ between sparse and full infill. So infill speed will adjust both. In the good news department, I'm working on realtime-tuning, where you can adjust the speed of moves/perimeter/loops and infill independently during printing, without affecting the rest.

Don't forget the acceleration, you might never reach the set speed because of acceleration limiting your speed. I highly doubt the reprap machine is reaching 400mm/s, and reprap based machines will always have less acceleration then we do (heaver head). Sure, we could reach 400mm/s, if you move from X/Y min to X/Y max. But is that useful?

Most likely your extruder skips because the motor power is wrong. My extruder is so strong that I find if very hard to turn it by hand if the motor is powered.

Threaded rod will work. Would be a bit harder to install, but it will work. Initial Rev1 machines had threaded rods.

First check the tension of the small Y belt, this could also be too lose causing the same kind of problem. Also check if all the pulleys are tightly attached to the axles. One more thing, after installing belt tensioners, you need to lose up 1 pulley and screw it tight again, to even out the tension on the 2 sides of the belts.

Cura's defaults are usually quite conservative. But I already had pretty nice results with 2mm retraction at 50mm/s without dwindle. These new settings seem to work better. However, I had a print failing today which I think was caused by the dwindle. (I was printing loads of support and there was too little plastic ending up in the print)

It's not as easy as you would think lots of corner cases to cover. But I shouldn't have been stubborn and used libraries for stuff like polygon inset/outset instead of wanting to write everything myself.

The project planner has a duplicate button almost next to the auto layout button ;-) yes, it's a tiny bit more complicated then the old multiply buttons. But it saved me a lot of trouble.

Oh, yes, you should contact support if you have broken parts. They will help you with replacements. But it can save you both a lot of time if you already know which part is really broken.

Do you have a multimeter? (even a cheap one would do) The heater wires (white ones) don't have polarity, so you don't have to swap them around. (Else they would have had 2 colors) There could be 2 problems, the heater element could be broken (broken wire), or the Ultimaker PCB could be broken. With a multimeter you should be able to measure the resistance of the heater element. Put the multimeter on "resistance 100" (usually indicated with an Ohm sign) and measure between the 2 white wires after you disconnected those wires. It should give off only a few Ohm, as Heaters have little resistance. If it says "out of range" or "unlimited" (usually indicated with a "-") then there is something wrong with your heater.

First, does it report no heat, or does it not get hot? It should take about 30 seconds to get to warm to touch. If it doesn't get warm at all, check the connections of the heater element, not the temperature sensor. These connections go all the way from the heater element (big round thing you inserted into the square block) to the ultimaker PCB: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/File:Heater1.png Make sure you have connected it to the right heater output.

The 248 is a bug, don't touch that setting from there, becauses it will store it wrong. I was told it was fixed, but it obviously isn't.

The copy buttons also caused other problems, which is why I took them out.I do think the project planner gives better results, and is more flexible. But for lots of small objects it can use a lot of bed space. Also: https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues/98

Florians retraction settings, which work pretty good, are: Retraction Minimal travel: 5.0mm Speed: 70 mm/s Distance: 4.5 mm Extra length: 0 mm Dwindle (in expert settings) Enable dwindle Pent up volume: 1.0 mm3 Slow down volume: 6.0 mm3

"steps per E" is the same as "E steps per mm", so you can use the same value.

The pre-heat settings are hardcoded. The "steps per E" are exposed at 2 locations, one of them is called "flowrate" which allows you to adjust with steps of 1. The other is "steps per E", and in 0.01 steps, however, the 0.01 steps one is bugged and you better not use it.

Not sure what you mean by that.

There is none. But it should be mostly self explaining, because the defaults are set for the Ultimaker. I have ideas about a manual, but that's more for the more advanced features.

It's possible to get negative spaces with sketchup, but as long as you are doing basic shapes it will generate proper files. I think archicad is the real enemy here, it seems to generate very sloppy models compared to any other tool I've seen so far.

if you saved it as 70m, with meter units it will most likely become 70mm. You can judge scaling from the bottom of the preview, which has 1 square is 10x10mm.

Fire!