Daid

To use RepG34 you need to use the Marlin firmware supplied with RepG34.

I understand what you mean. You want the "netfabb" like infill, instead of the line infill that Skeinforge does. On a perfectly calibrated machine, both should look the same really. This photo shows the infill type you want: http://www.flickr.com/photos/66753090@N08/6180925213/ However, this is not a feature Skeinforge supports, and the infill part of Skeinforge is a big mistery to me. So I cannot add it. A trick you could do is set the wall thickness very high, so it fills the full model with lines like that, but then you have a very solid part. (you could stick multiple GCode files together where you have the top and bottom with thick walls, and the center with thin walls and sparse infill, but that would be quite a bit of work)

You're proud of owning Arduinos? I'm more of a bare AVR user myself I think you can drop in an 16x4 LCD instead of the 20x4, but some text will fall of the edge then. I do recommend using the same pinout as bkubicek, so you don't need to adjust the firmware. Using the resistors instead of the level converter will also work, but a level converter is a bit nicer. But it's not a real complex build.

The Pin configuration can be changed in pins.h in Marlin. You can compile the firmware yourself and use whatever pins you want, but I suggest following the Ultipanel by bkubicek, as this is what the default Marlin settings use. (I hope you are doing this because you like doing this, and not to save a few bucks, because if you start calculating the time you will spend in figuring this out, and building, then the price of the UltiPanel is not that bad)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15081 this is the Ultipanel. So you should be able to get the information from there. Ultimaker is not hiding information about what they build. Same as with the machine, most info is out there. You need a 20x4 display, not 16x4. Also, I followed a discussion about rotary encoders on #reprap a few weeks back, and there are a lot of quality differences between those things. So be careful with what you get.

Raw parts, I guess you could build one for half the price (remember that you do not only need the parts, but also a PCB, and cables). But then you still lack the lasercut parts, and a knob. I guess you could print those: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120311 ... small.jpeg (I got a "bare" version, without the laser parts, as beta tester) It's a bit of a shame that it's lacking a photo, because the laser cut parts are pretty nice. You can hang it on the front or side of your machine. And it's not "bulky" like the beta prototype on Thingiverse. I hope we get some photos soon, was they sold a bunch of them on the spot to people.

Which version of SkeinPyPy did you get to work? The beta or the alpha? I noticed yesterday on someones iMac that easy_install linstalled PyOpenGL for python2.6 while python itself was using python2.7. You could try changing all the python startup commands in cura.sh to python2.6, so it runs Cura with python2.6 (I didn't get Cura to work on that iMac btw. I'm not sure what I did wrong...)

http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111027_195618.jpeg Good example of under-extrusion and the top one had an filament jam.

Thanks! I was quite nervous, I'm not that good in speaking before people. The link is: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki (scroll a bit down for download links) I've also updated the Ultimaker Wiki with a screenshot and updated the links a bit. Should make Cura more visible

The BuildMeMarlin is the same as the firmware from Cura. (Actually, the Cura firmware is build with BuildMeMarlin), the RC1 release has an older firmware, and the RC2 has the latest BuildMeMarlin with default settings and the UltiPanel+SD+Click encoder enabled. You can order the Ultipanel now! (They announced it yesterday at the Ulti-evening) https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-1/u ... e-kit.html

I never tried it, but I have a generic 16x2 display, but no rotary encoder for it. But the menus would be hard to use on 2 lines. Yes. A lot, the RepG one is more then a half year old I think. While BuildMeMarlin is brand new every time you use it. The RepG lacks the PID controller, which gives a much better temperature, it also has some fixes in the acceleration code I think.

From him? No way.

I've had some help in building an Ultipanel, which is an 4x20 LCD with SDcard reader. This one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15081 I hope Ultimaker starts selling them soon, as I think that was their plan. Once you have that one it's a simple case of attaching 2 band cables (which I could take from my work), upload the firmware with the Ultipanel configure, and it's self explaining from there on. I'm not a 100% happy about the menu structure, but it works. Once you have this, it's simple, put the SD card in your PC, put GCode files on there, put SD card into machine, select file from LCD panel, and it starts to print.

Doesn't work very well with a smaller monitor, it also looks a bit messy. I think the current one is better then yours... The "user forum" text is clearly pasted on later. The JOIN US with the robot is a bit funny, but makes it messy. And the ultimaker itself, it is the "target" of the forum, but I think it looks silly at that scale and location. A logo should be good looking, but not crowded, and 'merge' with the rest of the forum style. Example of another forum: I would: * Put in only 1 robot (I would opt for the black one, at the size you have it) * Remove the "fast, highdetail,portable, affordable..." text. * Put "User forum" at that place, maybe with the same shadow type as the old text. But NOT red. * Remove the JOIN US!

The SD card solves USB serial issues, which is great. I've moved my printer away from my computer, and I've been printing with SD for 100% of my prints now. I only attached my laptop a while back to update the firmware. Uploading to SD from USB is too slow to be useful at the moment. And there is an issue with SDHC cards. But having an LCD and SD card is really more useful then you would think. At first I didn't think I would use it much. But now I use it all the time. It also moved the noise away from my living room, I only hear a faint buzz now. (funny, as you notice that the noise changed at the end, signaling the end of the print) Long prints have zero chance of interrupting, there is no longer any buffering issue with detailed prints, and you can quickly reprint previous prints.

Got a link to that mech model? I would want to try to print that myself

Ultimaker is working on releasing RepG34. (I had a spin with the a test version from them, but it has a few problems that need to be fixed) RepG is usable with Marlin, but you need to change the baudrates. I think they also fixed the 250000 baud issue, but I didn't test it. (But, IMHO, Cura is the way forward ;-) )

I've updated the wizard to start with a right value for the RC2 release. 1. Not sure what you mean? It "primes" the extruder at the corner. You could adjust the start gcode so it wipes the printer head clean. Joris also does this, and cut a corner out of his printer bed for this. 2. Raft is a feature in RC1, it's below the support option (in simple mode, Raft is only enabled when you use ABS, so you need to use normal mode)

The RC1 installer doesn't setup the correct permissions, that's why it closes down after the first run wizard (fails to write a file) You could install beta4, or setup the python.exe to run as administrator.

The extrusion calibration is bugged. Just skip it for now, you should be able to print fine without it. The endstop test is odd, but the bottom Z endstop is almost never hit, so it's up to yourself to decide if you want to investigate that more.

Cura rides on top of the free open source Skeinforge, which has years of development. It's a simple result of collective minds making great things. I'm not a huge advocate of OpenSource, but in this case it seems to work.Note, when the Ultimaker was released, the state of Skeinforge was a lot worse, and NF was a pretty good alternative. I think I've fixed the Administrator issues for the RC2 release. I hope to get it released before Monday so I can show it off at the Ulti-evening.

The extrude test isn't that user friendly. If the "steps per E" is 0 then it indeed doesn't work, you need to manually set it to 800 or something, then run the test and enter the real extrusion length, then press save. The steps per E will be updated on the save button with the correct steps per E then.

The photos seem good now (one of them contains a bit of a wierd cooling fan, but that's a none-issue), and I always smile when I see the silly "step motor hiding behind cooling blocks" in a photo (background of the yoda photo) In the description, the final part says "There", looks like you didn't finish there, or deleted something by accident.

That's the Windows7 (maybe Vista) bug. The problem is that the user which the tool is running at doesn't have write permissions in the installed directory. The problem is, I do not have a machine to test a fix on. But I hope to have this fixed soon with RC2.

Yep, those defaults are good and safe. But note that the default "steps per E" is set to 865.888, while older RepG and Skeinforge expects this to be 14. Another option would be to switch to Cura for all your printing needs: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki which contains a known good Marlin firmware, assists you in upgrading to it, and has good default settings. It's an attempt to end the software nightmare that is RepG ;-)