Daid

Fixed it there was a bug, caused the setting to be always disabled.

Awesome! That print looks really good. Did you get the print off the plate? Because normally we print on M3 tape...

I got this problem from time to time when I tried to print with my Vista laptop. Not sure if it's related to the hardware or Vista. But it could randomly disconnect, or randomly just not find the Ultimaker at all requiring a reboot of my laptop. Moving to my main PC solved that, but caused another issue with USB, where the data flow would stop unless I would do something else on USB (use my mouse, keyboard, webcam or USB-Headset). I finally solved it all by getting an UltiController, which works like a charm!

The extruder motor never turns? I don't think that's software related, but more likely a problem in the hardware. A bad connection to the extruder motor, or a bad motor driver, or bad current settings on the motor driver. You could try swapping out the extruder motor driver with the X or Y driver, to see if it's the driver problem or something else.

daid303@gmail.com

1) Controlled by the actual print speed, combined with the filament diameter and the required line width (volumetric printing) 2) "Print speed (mm/s)" controls this, on the main tab. If you use normal mode, in simple mode this is always 50mm/s, except for the quick print, in which this is 75mm/s. 3) "Travel speed (mm/s)" controllable on the advanced tab. In normal mode. In simple mode this is always 150mm/s. It's odd for the extruder to just stop. Could you upload the GCode somewhere so I can have a look at it? Also, did PrintRun report anything "odd", like a MINTEMP triggered, or a "Cold extrusion prevented"?

In that case you can leave the heater unconfigured and enable the right pin with the M42 command. If you configure a heated bed it will need a proper temperature sensor.

The printing interface in Cura isn't the best yet. It's better to print from PrintRun, which is also packaged with Cura. (I shouldn't have included it until it was really ready :( ) If you edit the start/end code in normal mode, then it's also changed for simple mode. It's one of the few settings that simple mode does not override. As start/end code is usually very machine specific. No, the 3th extruder is the 3th extruder (firmware supports up to 3 extruders). The heated bed option is for the 3th heater/temperature sensor connector.

That's because there isn't any parameter for it in Cura. But you can enable it in the start and end code. A simple M190 Sxxx should set the heated bed temperature. Not sure how you build your bed, and where you got it from, as there is no official one from UM yet.

https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob ... in.pde#L47 this is the best source if you use the Marlin firmware.

Did the printing just halt? Or did it slow down a lot? Also, did you print from Cura or from PrintRun? I recommend printing from PrintRun as that is a bit more stable I think.

I do the same, note that it works best if you do not wait when it reaches 160C, as it just needs to be hot enough to get the filament out, not to get a melted plug.And instead of extruding till you see the new color, I print a 50% scale companion cube. Which prints in 12 minutes and flushes out the old color. I got like 12 of them already. For a better dual color mini companion cube I insert 5cm of the old color into the tube before your new color. So it gets a 50/50 color.

Retraction with 50mm/s, 2mm retraction, at 200C, in Cura gives pretty good results. Not perfect yet. But pretty good. Note: Cura will give better retraction results then Skeinforge, as it will only retract if Comb couldn't avoid holes. I want to change it so it retract before or during the move, which should give even better results. But I haven't got around to figuring that out yet.

I've been experimenting with different temperatures. 190-200C works really well to get detailed objects and no strings. But 220C works really well to get the first layer to stick. 220C also gives a nicer finish then 200C. Currently it's not possible to change the temperature for the first layer (unless you use some replace.csv tricks) but it might be interesting to add that. It is currently possible to enable the fan on the 2nd layer, which might also work to get the first layer to stick properly at 200C.

You're definitely under-extruding. You can see that the 2 perimeter lines also don't touch, and those should overlap slightly. Most likely the filament is slightly slipping at 190C 70mm/s. You could try upping the temperature a bit, check your steps-per-e and the filament diameter.

I always reply from the groups site: http://groups.google.com/group/ultimaker/ seems to work.

I came up with it the same way. The 6/20 factor might be wrong because the filament digs into the bolt a bit, so the actual diameter at which the filament is pushed is different.

There is no time estimate on the project planner yet. But if you know how long a single print would take, then you can add those up. For example, the larger gear parts take about 1h10 on my settings. The pin connectors only 10-15 minutes I think. So the plate of Gear1 with sets of 3 pin connectors took about 5h30 I think. Anyhow, they where printed when I got home: (I knew the points would be burned, but that makes the points soft instead of very sharp) And that makes 3! But you can try it now if you want, if you install the development version of Cura: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki/Insta ... nt-version You do need to make sure that first layer works. I've set the first layer to 20mm/s, 0.3mm and with 220C then it really sticks well for me.

I think the official term for the fishbone gear is a herringbone gear or a double helical gear: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_helical_gear The do look great tough I have no problems with the default extruder drive mechanism, but yours looks pretty simple compared to some other crazy replacements ;-)

Yep.See these screenshots: http://daid.eu/~daid/Screenshot-Cura-ProjectPlanner.png http://daid.eu/~daid/Screenshot-Cura-ProjectPlanner2.png It's still in development. As it doesn't account for support (which makes the print move area larger), doesn't work with a raft, and it managed to hit the cube center piece after printing because of the end code. But it does work. I should, I hope, have the rest of the gear cube ready when I get home. Or I have a lot of wasted filament

Nope. Standard bolt - old way: M92 E14 Standard bolt - new way: M92 E865.888 20mm bolt - old way: M92 E5 20mm bolt - new way: M92 E314 There is no G92 command.

A quick fix would be indeed to remove the G1 E0, or put an F300 behind it so it has a feed rate. My next version is ready when it's ready I'll announce it on the forums. RC2 is only a week old right now. And has only 2 bugs that I know off (first run wizard problems, first layer of support has too little material). There are a bunch of new features in the work, the project planner being the biggest of them all.

Wait, that's not G92, that should be M92. M92 sets the number of step motor steps per 1 "unit". For X/Y/Z a unit is 1 mm. For E the unit changed. In NetFabb, the E value represents... no idea, I've heard it represents the amount of mm filament coming out of the nozzle. For Cura/RepG34 it represents the amount of filament entering the extruder in mm. For Cura the default M92 E865.888 is used. However, this value can be tuned. This type is called "volumetric", which has 2 values that are easy to calibrate. One is the filament diameter (measurable), and one is the M92 Exxx, also called "steps per E". Which can be calibrated. Now that you have changed your extruder bolt, the amount of steps it needs to take for 1 mm of filament has changed. For the old way (NetFabb) you need about M92 E5. For the new volumetric way, you need the M92 E314.

Awesome! Now it's just a wait till someone prints out a full ironman suit. My latest print. Done with the experimental project planner in Cura. Which means the objects are printed one after another, instead of at the same time. Removing strings and increasing print quality. It's printed in yellow, but that's not very visible in this light. I had already printed 2 smaller gears and printing big gears and the final connectors right now in 1 go.

He shouldnt check, you should make sure it will never turns to 0, because that will mean it will freeze the machine I'm pretty sure I do not control the GCode generater in NetFabb ;-) But it's a bug in PrintRun. It uses 0 as default feedrate when you haven't got a feedrate yet. And you have a "G1 E0" before any feedrate setting in your start code. Which causes a move time calculation with a zero feedrate. I've fixed it for the next version.