Daid

Did you add the M92 E14 in the start code?

FYI: On the forums was another person with Ultimaker PLA which varied from 2.8 to 3.1mm in thickness. He had lots of trouble with it. So maybe there was a small bad batch.

It's sold als "Ultimaker compatible" which is no trademark violation. It's no illegal what they do, just a bit unrespectful. Also, you won't get support from Ultimaker with one of those kits. So if you have broken/wrong parts, you're on your own.

The mechanics "hum" at the frequency it get steps. So you get tones depending on the speed. You can make music with it: Nothing to worry about really. Actually, get used to the sound, you'll notice something is wrong when the sound suddenly changes

First I notice. Your start height seems a bit high to me. It should almost touch the bed when you hit the Z limit switch. My printer even hits the bed when it reaches the limit switch, but that causes some problems. As someone noticed on youtube already, you assembled the fan shroud wrong but that's not the cause of your problems. I would recommend to print slow till you resolve that with a nice printed fan shroud. The extruder speed, seen at 12:00 seems about right for this print speed. Tip: You will get you hands burned a few times if you keep removing the "excess" PLA like that ;-) use some pliers or a screw driver The 0.5mm walled thin box is a bad start print IMHO. It's quite easy to de-attach itself from the bed. You better try to print the 20x20mm full box, which has a nice solid bottom surface to start with. Around 8:00 I hear something interresting. It sounds like a motor is going on/off. Not sure if that's because of the GCode you're printing, or the machine itself. But if it's the machine then that sounds exactly like an overheating driver. Another thing, at 0.1 and 0.2mm layers the first layer is almost invisible. You might want to try a 0.3mm layer print to start with. This gives a bigger material flow, which is better visible, it also makes the first layer easier to stick down. And like florian already says on Youtube. You can adjust the first layer by hand if you just turn the Z screw by hand when printing the first layer. They do this often at Ultimaker HQ, because they don't feel like adjusting the start height.

I have, set it to 70% for the print I just did. But it's still quite dense. So I'm going to try 50% next. It still was quite easy to break off, because you can just jam a screwdriver between the different lines to break the support up.It's my 3th print with support, so I still need to experiment a bit what works best.

No amount of firmware changes will fix a mechanical problem.

Looks fine. If you use Cura default settings (which it looks like it) and the Cura supplied firmware, then those two things should be right. More likely your problem is not software related then (which is the whole idea about Cura, defaults are good, so you can eliminate that as a point of error) Note that the extruder turns very slow during printing. For your example above here, it used 1.5mm of filament for the skirt. Which is only a 30 degree rotation of the big gear or so. Few things you could check: * Is the big gear turning? * Is the bolt turning when the big gear turns? (the big gear can slip on the bolt if it's not tightly screw down on eachother) * Is your temperature high enough, the printer still moves, but refuses to extrude below 170C * The motor driver might be overheating, as I mentioned before. Some more info: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers

Another possible cause for this could be that your extruder step motor controller (the small board with the tiny cool fin on the electronics) is overheating. This would cause pauses in the extruder as it overheats and stops, cools down, and then continues.

Nothing to do with Skeinforge really. This is a Marlin feature. Simply, it's your printer waiting a while for the temperature to settle after it reached the set temperature. The default setting in the Marlin that comes with SkeinPyPy waits 30 seconds and needs the temperature with 3C within those 30 seconds. 30 seconds is quite long and 10 should have been enough. A simple way around it, is to not use the SkeinPyPy temperature setting (put it at 0, then it won't do anything), but pre-heat yourself. It's a bit of a workaround. You can also install this firmware: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ ... sE=865.888 (download the windows install zip) Which has the timeout reduced to 10 seconds. (It's the M109 settings that do this, M109 is the GCode command for "set temperature and wait for machine to reach it")

It's printed at 0.1mm layers, with makes the layers almost invisble (but not 100% invisible) I found it a good tradeoff between printing speed and quality. Took about 30 minutes to remove it from the print platform (kinda stuck down really hard) and basic cleanup. The transparent PLA indeed makes it a bit hard to see how good the final quality is. I only had 2 hours to print it, so I picked a size that worked, and didn't switch color from my machine. If I rotate it so that the details on the radar are on the top, then the support won't cause too much problems I hope. But at this scale some of the details could cause problem. But we'll know after I've prepared those parts. The body was easy to "fix" for printing. I just copied the model, removed all the radar parts, and used the boolean operator to add the eyes into the sockets. Then there where some duplicate faces in the tip of the tail the I fixed, but I don't think those would have caused any printing problems. But the radar parts are smaller parts with a lot more detail. Those will be a bit harder to cleanup. The support would be easier to remove if you scale up the model. I think I can also reduce the material amount used for support for a weaker support structure, as the support was pretty strong. Enabling support was just changing 1 setting from "no support" to "exterior only". So that was easy. One printed at about double the size would use 8x the amount of material, but would also use 8x the time to print. I've never done a 12 hour print. I'm also reduced to the colors black and red then. As I don't have a lot of my other colors (I could order some more, so no huge problem). I'm in Europe, so I think shipping costs to the US are something like 30 euro for something this size (I've never shipped something ;-) so I'm not sure) But I'll need too think about it. Especially running my machine for 12 hours without me around I find a bit worrying. People have done it, but they don't have a cat that likes to crawl into it. First I'll try the other parts

Print with support (only the body of the fox) After cleanup: I printed it in transparent PLA. Took about one and a half hour, at a pretty high speed. As you can see it's not perfect out of the machine, some "strings" as we call them are visible. I cut those with a knife (really easy) removing the support was a bit more of a problem. And you can see the bottom of the print is a rough because of it. But removing the support ended up to be easier then I had expected. It's about 5cm in length. And used about 2m of filament, which is less then a euro of material costs.

Transparent twisted bottle with cap. Printed with Cura at high quality settings. Cap screwed on without any problems. Transparent PLA isn't as transparent as I hoped it would be. But with proper light it still looks pretty cool.

No problem. That's really the most confusing part about the process with printing with SkeinPyPy (Cura). For the 1.0 release I am working on a printer interface inside of Cura (formally known as SkeinPyPy), so then it will be even easier to use

Odd that it works sometimes. But slicing from within PrintRun is not something I tested very well. It's better to start SkeinPyPy seperately with the SkeinPyPy.bat file.

perfect. The increase in temperature should be 20-30C in that time. Well, if your temperature measurement goes down when your temperature is going up. Then there must be a mistake somewhere. The 2 wire (red/yellow) is between the thermocouple and the thermocouple board.The 3 wire is between the thermocouple board and the Ultimaker PCB. Not sure if you can get the 3 wire the wrong way around. And no idea what will happen. But just asking. Because the Ultimaker PCB requires an extra resistor. And you don't need to use the thermocouple board then.Did you install any new firmware? Because you might get this if you configure a thermistor in the firmware and use a thermocouple.

"plug it the other way around", did you switch the red/yellow wires? or the 3 wire connector? Because it sounds like you have the red/yellow wires twisted. Also, small note of warning, your PEEK part will damage if it reaches 300C, so be careful with leaving the heater on when the temperature is measured wrong.

I just tried with 1.6mm walls. And I noticed something odd. It doesn't add more then 1 perimeter line for the layers with the "odd infill". As a test I also sliced with 0.5mm layers, which made the problem worse instead of better. I'm also seeing places with SF should have put "support infill" but hasn't. It's an odd problem.

My aim is Ultimaker users. My aim is also the "casual" users, not the power users. However, I do want to give the ability to for people to do what they want. I'm looking at SF and I see a lot of settings that you never want to tweak. (why would you want to turn flowrate off?) But there are settings people want to tweak. By starting without exposing as little settings as possible I get feedback about what people want to tweak. The amount of expert settings already doubled in the betas. I'm also "reordering" the settings into more logical groups (I hope) instead in whatever step of the slicing they are used. But, like I said, I no longer have any fan control enabled by default. And you can tweak it now in the development version. Want the PWM at 50%? Now you can, in the start code. Or with my mentioned replacement trick. (I find it a bit offensive of you that you act if I'm not listing to you, while I just committed changes to Cura to help your exact problem) I also see a bunch of settings which are intended to prevent/reduce stringing. (retraction, dwindle and hop). I might throw those in a seperate tab so people can experiment with them.

Funny, I noticed the exact same problem with one of my prints yesterday. Your posted settings do not match your print, but that's no biggy (support is exterior only, not empty layers only) There are two possible reasons why SF could do this. One of them is because it thinks it needs to "support" the higher layers because of a steep angled side. The other because it thinks there is no layer above it, so it needs to make a "solid" top. You might think, why would it think there is a solid top? It clearly shouldn't think that. But SF is a bit... stupid. I've played with the "Surrounding Angle" setting in SF, and it didn't change the solid layers at all. So SF must be thinking it has empty space above/below it. If it just finds a tiny ridge that would need support or solid infill, then it can fill the whole layer. Slic3r does this a lot smarter. It might have to do with the huge amount of detail in the model (this will also give you buffering problems when you'll try to print). But I'm not sure. Slic3r gives a good GCode result. But doesn't generate support. BUT. The model might print almost fine without support. I'm still amazed what I can pull off without support some times.

...then send him a check (or a TY anyway) because, really, most of us wouldn't be here doing this stuff without his years of work. Have you had contact with him? Because I have. He seems to be quite a bit of out touch with what 3D printers are doing right now. He doesn't even have a 3D printer. His latest "updates" are just patches submitted by other people (without updating credits, documentation, or much checking what the changes do). And his code is a general mess.I don't mind if people no longer want to develop something they started. But he also doesn't hand the project over to other people. He also hates source control because "when he setup a public writable SVN people make a mess of it". About the whole extruder not running. It has nothing to do with "F0", there is no F0 in his snippet of GCode. And there are missing Exxx values in there. The first few seem to be the skirt. The rest must be the print. It has to do with "flowrate", start with making sure "enable flowrate" is set somewhere. And no flowrate values are 0. To explain what those commands are "G1" means "move", the X/Y/Z are the position. The F value is the speed in mm per minute. And the E value is how far the extruder motor most turn for this move, compared to the previous E value. Another thing you could try, is to close down RepG. Remove the .replicatorg and .skeinforge directories from your home directory. And restart RepG. Hopefully this resets everything to defaults.

Yes. Especially on higher temperatures. Or manually retract the filament so it cannot melt.

You are right, the fan is not turned on in the start code. My mistake. Fixed it in the development version, the M105 and M106 are no longer exported, and the M106 is in the default start.gcode. Skeinforge strips out empty lines and lines with only comments from the start/end code. This is why your start.gcode doesn't seem to match the beginning of the file. Are you printing with PLA or ABS? Because I've never noticed this problem with PLA. I don't have ABS (I also don't want it, but I do want good support for it in Cura) Because if you want Skeinforge, then use Skeinforge. Or use SkeinPyPy Alpha, which gives you access to all the settings, changed a few settings to make it easier (no more width over thickness) and also goes faster because of PyPy.Also, there is no setting in SF that does exactly what you want. BUT. Cura can help you. The development version allows you to edit the "replace.csv". If you stick an ";LAYER:1[tab];LAYER:1[tab]M106" (use the tab key for the [tab]) and it will insert an M106 at the beginning of the 2nd layer (layer numbers start at 0). The layer comments are also something new from the development version.

ddurant, indeed, support for SF works, but if you have small "organic shaped" objects, then the support is a lot harder to remove without breaking the object. And you'll also get a lot more strings between the support structure and the object then.

That's odd, mine flexes 1.0-1.5mm with a lot of force (enough to compress the springs). I also cannot imagine all that wood (what is it, 5 layers?) flexing under light force.