Daid

1) I think in the title bar is normal in these types of applications. Which makes sense. Done for next version. 2) This would break a lot of features. But the development version has an "open file location" button, which opens an exporer window with the GCode file selected. Very useful to copy the file to SD, or to edit the GCode file after you sliced it. 3) I rather keep the simplicity of a single scale factor. I understand why in some rare cases a scale factor for X,Y or Z could be useful, but in 99% of the other cases it would get in the way. 4) Ever made a multi part object at 50% scale? I have been thinking about saving the scale/rotate/mirror options at the model location. But saving them in the printing profile has proven to be much easier so far. Also, the development version has a button next to the scale which resets the scale to 1.0 (all the toolbar options have icon buttons now) 5) Not sure why you would want that, the GCode file is still there. And it also loads the GCode file if you load a model file which already has sliced GCode.

Kicking off the bed usually happens during the high speed travels, so lower the travel speed a bit. Also, make sure the first layer stuck really well. Use a very thick first layer (0.3 or 0.4mm) and put up the bed a bit higher so that layer gets really embedded into the tape. Should make it hard to topple it over. Because, well, you know, they are French.

New firmwares have the limit set on 275. And you can configure any temperature you want as max: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ See "Extruder maximum temperature" You can also set an offset or gain to the temperature sensor there. Really, there are solutions to your problems (plus of OpenSource). But finding them using them can be a bit hard sometimes (min of OpenSource)

I have never used/seen the UP! myself. But from what I can gather from the internet. [*:ytntm1hg]The UP! uses closed source software. You are stuck with features they make, and capabilities they add. Ultimaker is build around free and OpenSource software. Anyone can adapt this and make new versions. This has advantages and disadvantages.[*:ytntm1hg]Most prints you see from the UP! are done in ABS. While prints on the Ultimaker are done in PLA. PLA is easier to print at thinner layers, which gives the ultra quality you see. Some of the best prints I've seen on Thingiverse come from Ultimaker or UP! printers. [*:ytntm1hg]The Ultimaker requires assembly, the UP! comes pre-assembled. [*:ytntm1hg]The Ultimaker has a bigger build area. 200x200mm vs 150x150mm. [*:ytntm1hg]The Ultimaker requires a bit of maintenance from time to time, like cleanup, oil, some new tape on the bed. The UP! is advertised as requiring none. [*:ytntm1hg]The Ultimaker will print faster. [*:ytntm1hg]The Ultimaker is made by dutch people. And dutch people are just awesome.

Note, this is why Cura, before anything else, asks you if you want to upgrade your firmware on the first run Good luck on your first print, and, don't go messing with other software options till you are sure your printer is up and running fine mechanically.

I've checked the clip, and it's tight. So that's not it.

It is an SD card or an SDHC card? Because SDHC cards are known to not work correctly (but usually are detected) I initially got an 4GB SDHC card for my UltiController, and that was nothing but troubles. I switched to an 1GB SD card and that worked. If you have other cards around you could test those to see if the problem is in the SD card or the UltiController. (after all, it could also be a bad connection somewhere)

I think the optional 4.7k resistor on the Ultimaker PCB actually IS the resistor you need to connect between the 'signal' and the ground. So with that resistor in place you just need to connect the thermistor between +5 and SIG. If I look at this picture from you: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3IYX8i ... RMNWM/edit then you have connected the thermistor between GND and VCC. Not sure where you got the pinout from, but on the board it clearly reads GND +5V SIG.

What version of RepG did yo use? 35rc1 was only released yesterday. You could try Cura: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki The first run wizard machine check and calibration do not work in RC1, so skip those, but the rest works great and it has helped a lot of people so far. (Small note: Cura uses a 250000 baud rate, which does not seem to work right in Linux)

Maybe your filament is slightly slipping, the print I'm currently doing also has a spot like that, but that's being printed with with flexible PLA. I slowed the print down a bit and that solved the issue for me.

Try upping the temperature to 210C, I think your temperature is a bit to low to get good adhesion.

I've heard (but not tested yet) that using normal round spacers same as the ones used to hold up the electronics) work pretty well to dampen the sound of the X/Y motors. Also, while I was diagnosing my extruder issue yesterday, I picked up the extruder assembly from the back of my machine and then there was silence. Well, not real silence, but it was a lot less noisy then before. It sounds like the vibrations from the extruder motor are making it into the frame. I haven't tested any damping there, as I was having another issue which was more pressing. But I think it's worth investigating. (Note, this could just be my machine, as I have an extra plate on the back with room for more extruders)

I've used 50% support material (should be the default in Cura at the moment), other then that default settings with 0.1mm layers, and 2mm retraction at 50mm/s. I manually turned down the speed to 75%. I rotated the model 90deg so the supported lined up differently with the model. Like this: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120418_212319.jpg it made the center support easy to remove as it was not attached to the legs at many points. And then I took my sweet time to remove the support. Those legs are really fragile. I used a sharp knife to cut the support lose from the legs, and then you need to be really careful not to break the arms. You could also scale up the model 20%, that would make it stronger. Also note that RC2 has a bug in the support, where the first layer has too little material. So if you support doesn't stick or stay upright you could upgrade to the development version.

The left blue clip you mean? Because that blue clip is black I'm pretty sure it's as far as it can be, I think I used tweezers to push it into place, and I think it snapped into place. (it's quite hard to get it in properly in an already assembled head with 2 tubes sticking out of it) But I'll double check to be sure.

http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120430_210742.jpg My 2nd extruder bowden tube is slowly moving up. I'm not sure if the new clamp is weaker, or if the new tube is more slippery. But it explains the issues people are having with the extruder plugging. My primary extruder does not have this problem at all.

I think you are referring to https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/hot-end-kit-v1.html However then you still mis: [*:3058azr4]The bowden tube[*:3058azr4]Bowden tube clip [*:3058azr4]The material feed mechanism (wooden parts, plastic parts, step motor, step motor driver, hobbed bolt, bunch of M3 bolts, M10 nuts) My guess for a 2nd extruder kit in costs would be around 200E Dual extrusion in Cura development version works. However, oozing is still a big problem.

You missed the part where he said that he could not print anything while he has this issue.

Nope, this mod doesn't do that. I think it would be possible to modify the Arduino that way, but it will be irreversible.

I wouldn't hold up for the 2nd hotend, that could take a while I think.

I've marked the points for you on this photo: http://daid.eu/~daid/UltimakerPCB1 ... r-Wire.JPG The Vin is marked on the left, on the right there are 2 points that you can pick as far as I know. But there could be more points below the "7812" (black component between the 2 right points) that you could use.

Is the feed motor turning or not? If it isn't turning then the problem could be in electronics. First check all the electrical connections.

Did you check both the sort and the long belts? To tension up the short belts you need to unscrew the motors a bit and then push it down and screw it tight. Also, step motor driver current is something you could check: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers

You have older electronics, new electronics no longer use the screw-clamps but already fixed smaller connectors. So no way to screw that up.

Not sure where the instructions are. But: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/images/El1.5.4-PCB.jpg See the bottom left corner, next to the Temp1,2,3 connectors, you have a row of pads. One of them is labeled "Vin". Solder the the wire to this pad. For the other end of the wire, you need 12V. This can be taken from the + of the electronics fan connector on the right. (Not the print fan connector) So solder the wire to this pin. Make sure you do not have a short-circuit somewhere before you turn it on.

Calibration from RepG24/25 (old way) and Cura/RepG34 is very different. The new was is called "volumetric", but the default calibration from Cura will most likely produce very decent results. For printing and directly controlling your machine you can use PrintRun, which is packaged with Cura (different start menu shortcut). It offers a lot more features then the very basic Cura printing interface. EDIT: But lots of thanks for those debug messages. They confirm what I suspected. There should be a delay after recieving the "start" line, and sending the M84. Because the firmware might not be fully up and running (most likely due to SD card failing to initialize). As it should have replied "ok" after the PID settings.