Daid

If the axis are unaligned then you get an oval, but I've never seen anyone post any proof of this. I think the machine will jam before you get the axes unaligned enough for an oval. However, more likely, is that you have a "rounded square". Which is caused by not having enough tension in the long belts. This causes some backlash effects which causes a circle to go a bit square. You can solve this with some printed belt tensioners (your first or printed object for your own printer!) viewtopic.php?f=19&t=604&p=3242&hilit=tension#p3242

It bends under uneven heating? But I guess aluminum works fine. I was just wondering, because I suddenly had a huge surplus of them. If it's a thermally insulator then it's a bad option.

Netfabb basic (free) can repair STL files I think (not 100% sure) There is http://cloud.netfabb.com/ Cura 1.0 will mark "errors" in your model after slicing. But that's kind of after the fact. Does help you spot troubled areas, but you'll have to use different modeling tools to fix the errors. Not all of these errors in the models are real problems. 9 out of 10 times it slices fine with errors in the model.

New print of the tank top: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120327_ ... small.jpeg Compared to the old print: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111007_010722.jpeg You can see some stringing between the barrels. The main differences between these prints are caused by a new firmware (Marlin) and easier to configure software (Cura)

It's different. So far the forum is a lot of support questions, people seeking help. And the groups are more discussions about improvements. The groups seem a bit more active. But I find the forums easier to search in case you are looking for something.

FYI: In the development version of Cura you can select Slic3r as a backend instead of Cura's version of SF. This makes using the same settings for both even easier :-) (It's still experimental, and there are a few bugs when you use Slic3r, but it's in the work for the next version) I've printed at 0.05mm once with SF. Works, but slicing takes a long time. My bed wasn't level so the object finally detached itself from the bed and was ruined. But it worked.

I printed 4 of these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10082 for my machine. Did wonders. But my belts didn't need much extra tension. There are more options: http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=belt+tension I like the design of this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19892 but I haven't tried them

You're a bit late. On the google group we already selected "Cura" as a name. Short, simple, easy to remember/write. Means goddess of "care".

possible cause is lose belts. Check if the long belts are tight (they should make an *ploing* noise) and the small belts should be really tight. These can "jump" over the pullies if they are not tight enough causing the exact problem you have. I had this same problem because of a lose small belt in the Y direction.

I don't think it's possible to jam between the peek and the alu. Because the alu block is hot, and will always melt any blockage. Normal blockage seems to happen between the bowden tupe and the PEEK. This happens if the tube doesn't connect perfectly with the PEEK. Then molten PLA can creep in there and block your printer head. Remove the end of the hotend, so you can see the end of the tube. Make sure it's atleast 9mm extended from the wooden part (guide says 8, but it's not always enough I think), and perfectly straight cut.

The Ultimaker engine adds about 10% to the price. 150E. And from what I hear around here, it contains a lot of configuration options. So if you like to tweak your prints a lot, then it sounds interesting.But my personal opinion, I'm happy without it. My initial idea was, I'll try without, and if the "free" options suck too hard, then I'll buy it. The free options did suck a bit, but where workable. With SF40+ (volumetric printing) things changed for the better. And I don't even consider buying NetFabb now. Also to make sure I don't "taint" Cura with NetFabb ideas and get into problems. IMHO, you better spend the 150E at Ultimaker or Faberdashery on Filament.

http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111007_010749.jpeg This tank was assembled from 4 parts (2 sides, 1 center, 1 top), standard 1 euro coin added for size. Same for this one: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111008_005844.jpeg Both put together with superglue. Note that these where made with thicker layers, and before I managed to sort out the software, and thus my extrusion amount was off (to little plastic). I should print the first tank again, it will look a lot better now I think. (It already looks quite good, black is very hard to take pictures from, as it shines like crazy) Another photo you might like to see is: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120125_211716.jpeg

Maybe this photo will turn you off: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20111212_194956.jpeg It was printed with support, at 0.2mm layers. Cleanup didn't work very well, and the end result was very ugly. It was my first experiment with support. (The green dragon was the 2nd). But how does it look before support removal? (picked this from google) http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0030/7 ... 1286806837

I have the same problem with my photos, the objects look a lot better in person. That yoda photo is awesome! I get some stringing between the ears and the head at 0.1mm layers, seems like that is no issue at 0.02mm?

Is there an update to this announcement? I can't find any further information about this update. Someone is working on it pretty hard, and they are getting closer to a release. But they ran into some issues that they want to solve first. (That's all I can share right now)

When you switch from ABS to PLA, you need to do 1 or 2 prints at higher temperature to make sure you have flushed out all the ABS. Any ABS that is left behind could clog up your printer head otherwise.

No photo editing, taken with a phone camera of a HTC Legend (without flash) Calibration: SkeinPyPy (Cura) defaults, with just layer settings to 0.1mm. No calibration in steps per E (but the default is almost spot on for me). And 190C. Printed with USB (I also have an SD option)

I think the Ultimaker is /dev/ttyUSB0 under linux. So it shouldn't be trying to connect to ACM0. But I never printed from Linux myself. A hidden problem in the Beta4 (I solved it later) is that the wizard always uses serial port auto detect, even if you configure a serial port in the preferences. You could just skip the calibration, the default is quite good for most machines. You can always re-run the wizard later from the "Advanced" menu.

Dragon: Village green Chest: Glowbug yellow (with a bit of ultimaker black at the bottom, because my extruder was not empty) Base: Lapis Blue The Lapis blue comes out a lot lighter then I had expected. But the village green is a very pretty color!

Well, the linux version assumes some linux knowledge. I hope you know how to open a command prompt window? If you run ubuntu, the following steps should work: cd [Directory_with_linux-skeinPyPy-newui-beta4.tar.gz]tar -xvzf linux-skeinPyPy-newui-beta4.tar.gzsudo apt-get install python python-serial python-wxgtk2.8 python-openglcd linux-skeinPyPy-newui-beta4./skeinpypy.sh./pronterface.sh The last 2 commands start skeinpypy or pronterface.

50 lashes for the offending person? :mrgreen:

Nope. That's 115200 for the Mega2560 version and 57600 for the Mega1280 version. It's also a different protocol for Mega2560. But the update baudrate is not important to know, the tools handle this correctly.

I've been moving things around, which adds to your confusion. What you've downloaded is the development version (which doesn't contain everything you need). What you should have downloaded is the release package: https://github.com/downloads/daid/Cura/ ... -Beta4.zip

Yes. It's possible to update the Arduino code. There is a firmware upgrade option in the RepG menu (even works if you cannot connect properly) Another possibility would be SkeinPyPy-Beta4: https://github.com/daid/Cura/downloads This will upgrade your firmware to Marlin V1 (which is a lot newer then what's shipped with RepG) on 250000 baud. The disadvantage is that it won't work with RepG anymore then (because RepG cannot handle 250000), but the good thing is that you don't need RepG with SkeinPyPy. The fan rotating slowly, and later fast if you turn the machine on is normal. If the slow rotating fan bothers you, you can remove the "ARDN_PWR" header from the board. It's intended use is to power the Arduino from the mains power. However, a side-effect is that the USB powers then FAN then when the power is off.