Daid

The G92 E14 overrides the thing you did with the 314. Instead of G92 E14 try G92 E5 for NetFabb generated GCode.

looks like NetFabb generated a feedrate of zero somewhere. Could you check if there is an "F0" somewhere in your netfabb generated GCode?

I've been reliably printing out stuff for a few months now. And my quality is only going up. I am promoting myself here, but Cura does wonders. It's just easier to use, giving less headache. Retraction with the bowden tube is harder, but not impossible. I've only been playing with retraction a bit, but with my last modifications in Cura, retraction starts to do it's job. I've had some virtually stringless prints. However, it requires a low temperature, which ultimately lowers your printing speed. And it still generates some imperfections. So it's a bit of a tradeoff. As I understood, RepRaps are fun. If you like tinkering with the machine. While the ultimaker is more for you if you just want to print stuff. A reprap is cheaper. However, how much is your time worth when you want to print something? The Ultimaker took me 8 hours from unboxing to first print. Virtual zero calibration after that (especially now with volumetric printing). For RepRap I always think about this youtube movie: 31 days to get a blob! Not sure how the PrintrBot compares to everything (I hope to find out soon)

If you push the machine too hard, the extruder drive mechanism is the first part that looks like it fails. However, I think this is related to the hotend, not the extruder at all. Comparing the amount of kits in the field and the amount of problems, I do not think it's that bad. I say, things are good. The machine works really well for me. I'm just not pushing it speed wise. And I had 1 blockage so far, which was cased by me retracting a blob of hot filament combined with not having the hotend properly assembled.

The step motor current is a hardware setting: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers Usually the defaults are good, but in some rare cases the driver current is wrong.

If it's sending a lot of small moves, then the printer can execute those moves faster then you can send those over USB. Which results in small halts, and blobs.

http://blog.ultimaker.com/2012/04/20/we-hear-you/ Btw, Shipping is HARD. It might sound easy for you. But when you're finding yourself shipping a few hundred shipments a week all over the world, then things change.

At 0.1mm layers I can also still see the layers. Reducing your eye sight might help There are people printing at 0.02mm layers, those might be the high quality photos you are thinking off. I also recommend you upgrade to RepG34 or Cura (depending on your taste), which has a newer version of Marlin giving a stabler temperature. This could help against the clogs. Overhangs at low layer thickness are quite tricky. Proper cooling and stable temperature are important. I also see a few blobs, which could be buffer-underruns. Printing with the UltiPanel helps in this case. (Hint, include something like a coin in your photos, then we can judge the scale of your print. See: http://daid.eu/~daid/IMG_20120418 ... .small.jpg )

The glow of the glowbug last longer if you have more material in it, so I recommend a high infill value like 70%-90%.

The "machine check" also has an issue in RC2. So you better skip it. I hope to find some time to sit down and fix it soon to release an RC3.

Sounds like a MIN TEMP or MAX TEMP trigger. Might indicate a problem with your temperature sensor wires. If they lose contact even for a slight moment it can trigger problems. The MIN TEMP/MAX TEMP should be reported over USB, even if you are printing trough SD.

Ok, update on another color. White! White is very pretty, looks neutral, and also doesn't show problems as well as some other colors. The only disadvantage is that it can burn a bit if it's exposed to heat too long, which makes it slightly brown.

Depends on the setting. Leaving students on their own to work with a $1200 machine that can burn you?On the other hand, the worst damage you can do without kicking it around is embedding the hot printer head in the printed bed, which leaves "burn marks" on the acrylic. yes.(the rest I cannot answer, me not from the USA)

Skeinforge has an option for this. But it's a hardware problem, really. And even with backlash compensation you will not get perfect prints. Did you check motor current setting?

Getting Cura to run on the Mac is still a bit difficult, and I couldn't get it to work on an iMac on monday (And I made Cura...). But I think I know what I did wrong, I installed the wrong version of wxPython. You should have downloaded this package: https://github.com/downloads/daid/Cura/ ... RC2.tar.gz and extract is somewhere. Then run the following commands in a console window: sudo easy_install2.7 PyOpenGLsudo easy_install2.7 pyserial Next download and install: http://downloads.sourceforge.net/wxpyth ... -py2.7.dmg And finally run: cd [location where you extracted osx64-Cura-RC2.tar.gz]python2.7 ./cura.py (I think the startup script "cura.sh" doesn't work in all cases, depending on your version of OSX it might work, but it might also fail)

Do I win? Both legs still attached, same for the weapons. Removing the support was a careful job. Sliced with Cura (development version, for the support first layer fix) 0.1mm layers, 50mm/s and 10seconds per layer. Rotate 90deg so the support lined up better.

Good reason not to tell anything :mrgreen: But: 1) is released. 2) has been spotted at the UM HQ a few months back, but no word on it. 3) I've seen a dual headed Ultimaker at Protospace. More on this below. 4) It should be quite simple to build this yourself if you really want to. From a basic kit, with longer Z rods and new side panels. Your build height is limited by the size of your laser cutter (which is why Protospace has a larger one then Ultimaker) Dual extrusion, with the right parts you can already build this, hotend kit bolt some parts you can buy, but a few things you'll need to source yourself, as they don't sell those yet. Ulti-RepG34 supports dual extrusion as I understood from mr_seeker. And my response to the question if Cura supports dual extrusion was "get me a 2nd extruder and I'll make it". To my surprise they are going to get it too me. So it is something that has their attention. But as with the Ultipanel, from prototype to product in stock can take a while. But really, things are ready when they are ready. If it's not in the shop, then you cannot get it. And you'll have to wait then. They do not give off estimates about when things are ready so they cannot be held accounted for it if they do not make it. Product development is not as easy as you might think.

I changed from RepG25/RepG26 to stand alone Skeinforge with Marlin. And later to Cura. That print was before volumetric printing, which was a lot harder to calibrate and those prints where done with just guessed numbers.If you get this now, then you could have slipping filament, wrong filament size, or a wrong steps_per_e.

It's a movie, but I managed to fix the link: http://printrbot.com/2012/02/22/norcal- ... ntrbot-hq/

My own subsection! Whoho! Victory ;-)

Putting just a bunch of brass gears on your machine will get you chewed at by steampunk people. Because steampunk is not just a bunch of gears, gears are just one of the components. The "home build" look of the Ultimaker works in your advantage in this case. Googling some steampunk images might help getting ideas. Also, visiting a festival which has steampunk people can help, and is great fun. (elf fantasy fair for example)

So far all I know is that you get buzzes when you click on menu actions. I find it pretty loud and should put a piece of tape on it to silence it a bit. Maybe there is a GCode command that can buzz, but not sure.

Not a clear photo, but it's a multi color unicorn!

Yep, that would solve the fan USB power. The jumper is there for if you get an UltiPanel: https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-1/u ... panel.html then you can power the whole machine from the 19V (the fan powered from USB is a unintended side effect)

The level converter is because the SD cards talk at 3.3V, and the Arduino at 5V. A level convertor is a clean solution. A bunch of resistors is a dirty solution, but also works.