Daid

I've added the "save profile next to GCode" feature in the development version of Cura. The feature needs to be enabled from the preferences, and then it saves your settings as [stl_file]_profile.ini, which you can load into Cura again.

Indeed, the first picture is wrong. And the build time is specified as 2-4 hours, which I don't think you'll be able to pull off, even if you have build a few before. Mine took 8 hours, and I have a pre-assembled printer head.

You have too little plastic coming out, this could also be a mechanical problem in the extruder drive mechanism. Make sure the big gear is firmly attached to the bolt, I know mine was slipping at first which caused a lot of headache.

Both builds are old. A much newer version can be obtained from: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ If you want to print from RepG you need to set the baudrate to 38400 or 57600 (depending on which machine settings you use)

I don't know where you got the 400mm/s value from, but 150-200mm/s seems to be about the limit.

Well, it's not that silver is no good. It's just that the last few people reporting problems with printing all had silver filament from Ultimaker, all with varying dimensions. Which can indicate a bad batch of filament from Ultimaker. (just guessing here) I'm not an expert on temperature readings, mine are spot on. It's quite simple to check how good your temperature is. Around 160C you should be able to remove filament, around 190C you can push it trough by hand, and print with it. And if you print at 230C you get oozing problems before you get feedrate issues. Marlin (from Cura or ErikZalm) has a much more stable temperature then the default firmwares, so it's recommended to upgrade to those.

If you're not using the supplied firmware then the wizard doesn't work in the next steps. But that's no huge problem, you can configure the "steps_per_e" in the preferences. The 100mm value adjusts the steps_per_e, so with the right steps_per_e you should be on exactly 100mm extrusion. Adding the used settings to the final GCode is possible. But internally the settings have slightly different names then shown on the GUI. I could also save the profile as an ini file next to the gcode and log file. Not sure what is wise... I rather not clutter the GCode too much.

Can the layer thickness be changed at different points in a print (at least if the software could do it ?) The current software cannot (well, maybe Netfabb can, but I do not have experience with Netfabb). You can set the thickness of the first layer, and all the other layers have the same thickness. Then there is the "skin" trick, which prints the outside lines twice at half the thickness, giving the illusion of better quality at only a fraction of the time cost. In the end, if you are doing production runs, you can always use a batch of ultimakers (especially with the Ultipanel, because then you don't need a PC anymore to print)

My temperature measurements are spot on (not everyone's is), which means PLA is printable at 190C. If I crack up the temp to 200C I can print around 80mm/s, at 100mm/s it starts to show minor flaws with 200C. I've cranked it up all the way to 200mm/s, with 230C, but then I got into backlash problems, and infill not filled problems.

Small note on the overhang, 60 deg angles are possible with the Ultimaker in most cases. Quality is mostly a time tradeoff. For the best quality you want to print on 0.1mm layers (or smaller) at a speed up to 75mm/s. A 40x40x40 print can take multiple hours then.

That's normal really. The SkeinPyPy (Cura) uses a new method called "volumetric", which means the E values represent the length of the filament. The old way (Netfabb, RepG25/26) is to have the E value represent the amount of filament coming out of the nozzle. Which is much harder to calibrate. For the Netfabb code to work with the new Marlin you need to add an M92 E14 to the start code: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=479&p=2385&hilit=M92+E14#p2385

I don't think they are. But you might want to lower the printing temperature, you get less fumes that way. Printing at 250C gives a lot of fumes, while printing at 220C gives a slight smell after a hour or so.

Oho... I see the silver PLA. Which seems to vary in thickness a lot. That might be your problem causer. I suggest to print slow, at a high enough temperature (230C). This might help against jams and stuff. But still, with varying thickness you will have problems. Especially on those kinds of prints. Try an octopus or yoda to see if that turns out better. Organic shapes are a bit easier.

glTranslate has something to do with OpenGL. But I'm quite experienced with OpenGL, so I'm pretty sure I didn't do anything odd there...

The black screen after aero disable could also be that the "frame buffer" used for the preview window now just contained black pixels. I find it odd that it doesn't report any error. There where a few problems with getting the MacOS 3D preview to work. But that thew errors. I'm not sure how willing you are to test things, but could you try to put a: print "OnDraw" In the draw routing? Just search for "def OnDraw(self):" in preview3d.py, and put the print on the next line. It should show the print message in the dosbox then when it tries to update the screen.

Ultimaker is a bit understaffed to do a lot of software stuff right now. They have a job opening for this, and maybe I'll apply for it ;-)

The 5V USB leaks to the Vin when you only have USB connected. That's the "leak" I mention. The Arduino Mega uses about 60mA, so it's burning about 0.84W, I haven't looked into the terminal specs of the regulator chip to see what's possible.

The Z motor problems could be an overheating stepper driver, see: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_b ... or_drivers The extruder not turning is most likely the "dimension" module turned off. It you are running windows, Cura solves most, if not all, software issues: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki

Well, I connected the 19V to the Vin a few days back, and that seems to work fine. The problem with connecting to the 12V side of the linear regulator is that the regulators are not designed for that, and you leak 5V to the 12V fan, which might turn then. I've moved my machine and I'm now unable to test with USB right now. (but the noise is gone from my living room )

There are a few different options to operate your machine. But the easiest one is Cura: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki All settings in Cura contain popups that help you. It's a few steps ahead of the ReplicatorG that Ultimaker currently offers, and both are free.

First step would be to check if the temperature adjustment isn't in the GCode. Check for M104 and M109 commands (these set the temperature) Second, which firmware are you running? The stock 5D firmware?

Note, after the MINTEMP triggers there is no "fix" it throws the machine in an un-recoverable error state, you'll need to reset your machine to get out of the MINTEMP.

You could have a lose connection in the temperature sensor, or even a bad solder in the PCB. Like I said, Cura, Skeinforge, ReplicatorG, PrintRun, all have nothing to do with the MINTEMP. MINTEMP is all handled in the firmware. The message might even be gone if you cold start your machine again now.

The message comes from your printer and has nothing to do with Cura or even Printrun. (It's firmware, AKA, Marlin) However, I noticed something odd with Marlin that I never got around to investigate properly, it seems the first temperature measurement is way off. Maybe that's what triggered you min-temp.

You're missing Cura: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki I've always found RepG very buggy and not doing what I wanted. I I made my own solution. And people seem to love it.