Daid

It's an optimization. I generate a hash-code for each point, so I can put all points in a hash map to quickly compare them. Points that are near each-other have the same hash-code. Or, you could see it as I put each point in a 3D grid, which spacing of MELD_DIST in each cube. Every cube has it's own unique ID, which I calculate there. (Hash collisions can happen, but later code does fine checking of all the points that have the same hash code) The most important reason why this step happens is to reduce ultra-high quality models, and to get face-edge relations later on to optimize the polygon generation.

The ones in the UM-Original are 1.8deg per step. And quite strong, there is quite a difference in NEMA17 steppers, so make sure you get strong ones.

The advantage of the wipe tower is that it also primes the extruder, so that helps in if one of the extruders leaked a lot. I actually managed to make quite good prints at 220C with both the ooze-shield and wipe tower enabled.

I've had my hands in just about any place possible in the moving machine, and the only part that caused real pain was having my finger stuck in the gears of the feeder. I haven't had my hand "crushed" under the platform, so I'm not 100% sure about that part. But you wouldn't lose a finger. You can get some nasty burns from the hotend, but that's the worst that can really happen.

The problem is that I do not have an easy to use library to access camera's on the Mac. The library I have only works on windows, which is why Webcam functions are limited to windows right now. It's a shame, I know. But little I can do about it right now.

Currently, Cura does not do this CSG difference for you. I actually have the code for it in place, but I disabled it. (Some overlap can actually be useful from time to time, as it generates different bonds and the bonding is stronger where there is overlap)

I think you are wrong, the material is printed A,B B,A as you see, but like this: Layer 1, color A Layer 1, color B Layer 2, color B Layer 2, color A Layer 3, color A Layer 3, color B Layer 4, color B Layer 4, color A So every color as a layer beneath it of the proper color. There is no gap of a layer in between. 13.11.2 also adds this "round robin" extruder changes to dual-extrusion support material. As well as adding the experimental wipe&prime tower as the ooze-shield. It also adds retraction when printing the support material, so that also helps. The wipe&prime tower still needs some tuning I think.

Firmware update - Ultimaker 2 - Firmware version: 13.11-2 Fixed Ultimaker 2 build volume offset so that you do not print off the glass plate. Slightly tweaked the filament change procedure so there is less chance of a blob staying behind. Slightly tweaked the SD-Card error problems, solving a rare case of SD-Card read errors. Added LED settings to Tune menu, so you can tune down the LED lighting during printing. Start heating the nozzles when the bed is nearing its final temperature, so the nozzles do not sit hot. Make sure all commands are finished before starting a print or changing material. This could cause issues when you where too fast.

The mac package seems to be corrupted some how, removed the download, and looking into it right now.

The Internet connection messed up here at UM, so the uploads where incomplete. I just re-uploaded all files for the 13.11.2 release, and I think it should work now. Note that on MacOS, for some magical reason, different Cura versions can interfere with each other. So having only 1 Cura installed at the time on a Mac is recommended.

If you are used to the feature-tree then you'll have to change how you think. Because that's not how it works. For accurate pushing/pulling, use the number entry, not the drag/drop style. I usually use the dragging a bit, and then do the fine-tuning with entering the number. (The dual-extrusion mounting aid was designed in spaceclaim: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-extrusion-mounting-aid )

Yes, the assembled comes with an UltiController. (This isn't very clear from the shop page)

I just installed and did a few quick tests on the DesignSpark software (which is re-branded spaceclaim with a few options cut out). Missing options are: * Ability to add text (which is a bit of a shame) * Sheet-metal tools (which is no problem for 3D printing, as you do not need them) * Ability to convert meshes to solid (important, I'll explain a bit later) * Ability to make documentation. Not that important for 3D printing, but important if you are using SpaceClaim professionally. So I fully understand they kept this out. * Repair tools (mostly useful to fix up STL files with holes before editing) Other then that, it's pretty complete for what you would need. Now, there is 1 final issue. And that's import/exporting. DesignSpark can: * Open STL files, but not edit them, because they are loaded as meshes instead of solids * It does NOT Open SpaceClaim files (I guess intentionally) * STEP files can be opened, but only in read-only mode. No edits. * But, SKP files from Sketchup can be opened, and edited! So, the way to get your model into DesignSpark seems to be by loading it into sketchup first, saving them, and then loading them into DesignSpark. But of a long way around, but I think it's worth it, as the editing tools are quite awesome.

We have found a different screw that is easy to use in replacement of the current screws. Support should be able to send them too you if you have lose fan problems. We're also looking into pop-rivets, but getting the exact size is proving to be more complex then expected. And you need special tools to put them together.

Sounds like a cooling/temperature problems, as the left side has better cooling due to the fan being on that side. Which temperature are you printing at? And lower it to 200 for example.

As of 13.06 Cura uses shaders instead of the fixed function pipeline to render the 3D models. For a none-technical user, this means I'm making better and more use of 3D card features. However, some cards seem to misbehave in this case. Updating videocard drivers helps in most cases. Something else you could try, is opening "Cura/Cura/gui/util/opengl.py" with a text editor and change: def hasShaderSupport(): if bool(glCreateShader): return True return False To: def hasShaderSupport(): return False

Both. It adds code complexity, which more stuff to go wrong. And it adds more settings which is more confusing for the users. I am thinking of a few UI redesign options, to improve this scenario of lots of settings. But I do not have a final solution yet. For bridging, the bridging code needs work. Right now the bridge detection code could be better, as well as the final bridge handling. One of the highly advanced things you could do with bridges is print them at a different layer height then normal layers. Bridges at 0.15-0.2mm layers print better then at 0.1mm layers for example.

Just wondering, why did you feel the need to shout this birdysign? The reason why there isn't a fan speed for bridging is two fold. First I do not want too many settings. Secondly the fan is controlled per layer right now, controlling it per print area would require some serious changes in the code.

The connecting of the printer causes a reset, which causes the cracking noise (it's the steppers engaging), nothing to really worry about. (The USB printing with RepRap flavor GCode works fine, if your USB printing works for you then feel free to keep using it. But as Ultimaker we cannot provide a guarantee that it will work. I do think it's important to leave in this feature for tinkering reasons. So no worries for you there.)

The originals are D1450: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal/tree/master/1127_Table_Spring_D1450 But I recommend stiffer springs then this. I've got 1 printer with the springs from the feeder, but those are too stiff. D2150 springs are the ones used in the UM2, which do their job quite well.

(Unofficially, USB printing might work if you configure Cura for an UM-Original. However, due to the large amount of problems with USB printing we opted not to support this on the UM2)

I did not read all of the thread, as I noticed Sander was already helping out. But on the "testing the electronics", the electronics boards are 100% tested and verified in an automated test bed before they are installed in the machines. It's one of the major upgrades compared to the UM-Original, where the electronics are hand-tested and problems might slip trough. The print estimates are off, this is a known issue for quite a while now. And it has made it quite high on the priority list to solve this once and for all. The problem here is that Cura acts if there is instant acceleration on the printer, while the printer actually has to accelerate. Cura currently also forgets to add time for retraction. The "hotend standing hot" will be solved with the next release, which will include a new UM2 firmware. USB printing on the UM2 has problems with quite a few hardware combinations, and this is not supported from Cura (actually being able to start the USB printing interface when an UM2 is selected in Cura is a bug) SD printing is not ideal, but it is the best option we have right now. Ideal we would have ethernet/wifi. Which is mostly an time&money issue. I've done a ethernet based board on my previous job, just developing the board into a stable system, with all testing and setting up production took 1.5 year from initial idea to final having the product on the shelve. I'm pretty sure it can be done faster now (as tech has advanced), but it is still a complex piece of technology. SD cards are pretty simple in this aspect, which is why they are used right now.

The stl files would do. Combing is staying inside the model during travel moves instead of going in a straight line from A to B

Got some links to the models? Note, I've tweaked the combing and retraction code quite a bit. It remains a difficult thing to get 100% right, as there are all kinds of tiny details to get right. For example, before I retract, I move inwards a bit. And combing I do not do on the outside boundary, but 1.5 line widths inside the print. What I do find odd is that the code should comb or retract, but with these lines it does nether of them...

I've done quite a bit of tinkering and tweaking on this area with my UM-Original. The UM2 gets about the same precision. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cat-gears-key-chain These are the smallest gears that I think are possible. Printed with 0.4mm shell thickness. The problem lays with the 0.4mm nozzle that needs to put down 0.4mm lines. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24253 These are the smallest threads I managed to make. Printed in this direction. Printing them sidewards is impossible at anything but "huge" scale. On settings: For gears you most likely want to lower the shell thickness to 0.4, you might need to tweak the infill-overlap and lower it (in expert) so prevent over-extrusion. And temperature, for small things you want to slow down the printing speed and lower the temperature. You could go as low as 190C. Also, turning off the heated bed and printing on tape is what I would recommend for anything small and not flat (but there will be people who disagree with me on this)