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Daid

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Everything posted by Daid

  1. Above 25% Cura does infill lines in only 1 direction per layer. Below 25% Cura does infill lines in both directions in each layer, making stable squares. So below 25% it does put in 25% infill, but because it's doing lines on both directions the distance between the lines is bigger then with above 25%.
  2. I think I fixed this issue in the latest test version: http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/ It was never intended to keep the camera open like it does. It was an oversight and I'm sorry for it!
  3. Doh, my mistake. Must be because the other makerfair was in SanF. (And you know, we did have the idea once to show the UM2 their, but it was not quite finished)
  4. Talk to Dave Head. (Also known as Kibble on the google groups) He has been bugging me for the last 2 months, because he did see hints about something new. But we did not drop a lot of hints. We where too busy arranging everything else. One of the hints could have been my activity. I'm surprised that nobody noticed this really, but my "visible" development of the last few months dropped quite a bit. Just too busy with firmware development, testing the direct drive (of which we printed shitloads before we got the final injection molded parts) Also, take a look at our stand at San Francisco: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jabella/9898859083/in/set-72157635805387163 See that we still have UM-Originals on there? We still see this as an important machine, will keep supporting it, it will get upgrade kits. On a totally unrelated note. Some quick math made us aware of the fact that you could buy 61750 lego bricks for the price of an Ultimaker2. If you buy 95 of these boxes: http://shop.lego.com/en-NL/LEGO-Basic-Bricks-Deluxe-6177?s=4514049
  5. Firmware is still the same, we talked about this last week at Ultimaker, to improve this firmware scenario, detecting which firmware version is on your machine and asking the user only to upgrade if it's outdated. Changes in the GCode generation: (Compared to 13.06) * New support material. * Infill is aligned, so it no longer shifts with the model. Making for stronger infill * Expert setting: Minimal skirt length, which adds more skirt lines to make sure the nozzle is primed. * Better handling of 100% infill * Support material in dual-extrusion can be done with the primary, secondary of both nozzles. * Option to always retract instead of combing. * Minimal travel for retraction option * Some bug fixes for multiple-object printing Changes in the GUI: * Add multiple machine settings for when you have more then 1 machine. Each machine has it's own machine size, serial port settings, and a few other configuration settings. This makes it easier to switch between UM2, UM-Original or a RepRap printer. * Allow dropping gcode/ini files into Cura * YouMagine upload feature * (Possible fix for 250000 baud on Linux, untested) * Show how far the printing is on the 3D window when printing with USB * Better AMF support for dual-extrusion There also have been changes for a multi-language Cura, but the only language is English right now.
  6. Cura currently heats up both at the same time. However, you can change this behavior. Put the following code at the top of the start.gcode: M190 S{print_bed_temperature} M109 S{print_temperature} Cura will see the {} tags in the start code and will not emit the default heatup commands.
  7. We see the UM2 and the UM-Original with Dual-kit as two very different targets. Dual-extrusion isn't perfect yet, it requires quite a bit of tinkering and tweaking. We are planning to release the UM2-Dual when we have a full grip on it. The UM2 will be upgradable with dual extrusion in the future. Which is why there is already room for the 2nd feeder, and the 2nd nozzle. The electronics are also prepared for this. (I've also overheard people talking about an "upgrade service" where you can send in your printer and have us install the upgrades. Just the idea phase here, nothing final I can tell on this. But the UM2-Dual won't be released in 2013, I'm sure of that)
  8. I'll be testing and building a mac version tomorrow. I did a bunch of UI changes which I have to test. (Every single UI change needs to be tested at Mac, because random shit tends to break. Which is why the test versions are usually only for Windows. Sorry)
  9. The bed also has stiffer springs. But if vibrations are an issue you might just get around by putting stiffer springs in there. I have my bed at home almost at on the wood, compressing the springs all the way, it makes it impossible to take the bed off, but does make it very stable. We're very happy with this bed, it's easy to assemble, it no longer needs calibration after transportation, it looks great, it prints great, the glass is quite easy to take out. We do need to take a look how to properly put it in an UM-Original, as also replacing the Z motor might drive the cost higher then needed. But then we'll need to make some modifications at the bottom plate. There is also the issue with the end-stop. As the UM2 homes at the bottom, but with the Z-Coupler of the UM-Original the bed cannot get that low.
  10. Oh, a difference between the 13.07 and the 13.09 is that the first layer travel moves now happen at the full travel speed. I'm still not 100% sure if that's a good idea, as it might be easy to rip off the printed parts with this. I'm thinking about setting the travel speed to print speed for the first layer, and not doing any retractions. This should improve first layer adhesion I think.
  11. (Hihi, FYI, 2 years ago, early days of UM, I waited 2 weeks on a support reply. Which was the average back then. But then again, lead time was also 6 weeks back then) It is a bit of a problem, as far I as I know they are looking for someone extra for the support tasks. What happened is that from friday till monday all support people where at San Francisco. On Tuesday the first person returned and the rest went on for a show in the UK. She worked hard to work trough all the emails, but there where a LOT of questions. There was also an issue with the webshop at some point, so some payments had to be verified (and as you can imagine, making sure no money was missing or orders where in the wrong state was important, people do like to know if their 2k did not go "poof"). The phone was also red-hot at this point, lots of questions on the Ultimaker2. So the issue is/was a understaffed problem at the support desk. I see our lovely community is taking the stance for us, which might tell you something about some trust and credits we earned with them. But that does not remove the fact that we did have a bit of a staff issue on the support task.
  12. Well, I have been fixing so many things, not 100% if I fixed this already. You could give the latest test version (uploaded today) at http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/%20a%20shot.
  13. The UM2 has a single PSU. A quite large one. The biggest we could get which was still certified to use in a consumer product. (One of the things we are pondering about right now, is to include a "bed upgrade" with the heated bed. So you get the stable bed from the UM2 with the heated bed upgrade. Which increases reliability by requiring less bed-leveling. Would add a bit of cost, but for a huge gain)
  14. I recommend the latest test version from http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/%20(as%20it%20fixes%20some%20issues%20related%20to%20dual-extrusion) (as it fixes some issues related to dual-extrusion) With printing at 190C to minimize oozing. This is important.
  15. I'm sorry that you are displeased with the service you got. What might have been a small issue in the communication was that the people who are doing support are also the people that went to the UM2 release in San Francisco. Which is why all support requests are a bit delayed and they are working as fast as possible to get rid of the backlog. This might make some replies a bit shorter then usual. Now for the kit you have. The Ultimaker2 will not replace the Ultimaker-Original kit. So you did not bought a discontinued product, the kit will be supported and we will continue sales of the kit. As the kit is still awesome. And there will be a heated-bed kit in the near future. Note that the changed orders of the Ultimaker-Original assembled version into orders of the Ultimaker2 assembled. This does not mean that people who where shipped an Ultimaker-Original assembled suddenly got shipped an Ultimaker2. As we did not ship any Ultimaker2 yet. I'm not 100% in the loop of what happened, but I think that they did not ship any assembled machines 1 week before the announcement, and gave everyone who ordered the assembled an option to change their order into an Ultimaker2.
  16. The user has a choice already, you can simply adjust the "cut of bottom" value a bit to lower/raise the model a bit. This will adjust the slicing position. Comparing slices is a difficult and expensive (in time) processes, which isn't as easy as comparing files for changes.
  17. There is a bug somewhere with the first layer and the minimal layer time. I've not tracked it down yet.
  18. That's a shame, in the full version I can just import an STL and instantly edit it, as if it was a solid already. I can also run some fixing tools to get the STL fixed up even better, like patching up the circles to be true circles. I could turn an STL file into a STEP file quite quick with this tool while converting circles and curved surfaces.
  19. Cost wise it's most likely more effective to run two PSUs. If you replace the normal UM PSU you simply throw away the money for that PSU. Also, you would need some kind of splitter cable to split the single PSU power line to the UM electronics and the heated bed. (You cannot run the heated bed from the UM electronics directly, as the power connector and switch are not designed for those loads) Finally, you would want to run the bed on 24V, as that's what we used in the new UM2. And the UM-Original electronics run on 19V, you can run them on 24V but you need to make some modifications on the board. (You will get awesome heaters with it, because running the stock 40W heaters of the UM1 at 24V gives an effective heater of 60W. Which might burn out quicker...)
  20. You could hack 2 extra motor drivers and 2 extra temperature sensors + heaters on the current board. You would need to update the firmware a bit to support the 4th heater (as up to 3 are supported in Marlin right now), but it could be done. (The RUMBA board from RepRapDiscount supports up to 3 extruders, and already has more temperature circuits, so that could be a better base to start off then the Ultimaker electronics)
  21. New firmware cools down the nozzle when you cancel/finish a print. It also retracts 20mm and pushes forward 20mm at the end/begin of a print.
  22. They will start shipping somewhere in October. They will ship in order of ordering. So how quicker you order the sooner you will receive it.
  23. Some kind of tough glass, not sure what kind, most likely borosilicate, but not 100% sure. It's nice, flat, strong and transparent.
  24. Actually, the full statement on our OpenSource-ness should go online soon. But it goes something like "bla, bla, we'll release the UM2 files in 6 months, bla bla". There is a lot of confusion about this. But the UM2 files will NOT be released right now. But Harma is actually sorting out and uploading the UM-Original files right now, as we will put them online ASAP. You could follow the repository on github if you want notification as soon as it happens: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal I think the UM-Ori is much more interesting for hackers anyhow. Except for a few bits&pieces from the UM2. I'll see if I can arrange to upload the printable direct drive files online. (The final injection molded parts are not really printable, but we have a design that prints great. I even installed it on my own printer)
  25. I'll most likely need to create a test version for that. I'll whip one up tomorrow. (Developer background info, to actually do the "clicking on objects" I draw the 3D model twice, once as you see it on screen, and once "off screen" with each object in a different color. When you click on the screen I read the pixel color of the invisible screen and from that I can see which object you clicked on. Works great, but I guess there is something slightly messing with your "off screen" colors for selecting)
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