LePaul

I'd be very interested in your results. If that works that would be a nice, low-tech fix

I saw a YouTube video where someone cut a round piece of copper, drill a hole in it for a set screw, that attached it around the base of the steel nozzle. He found that the heated copper helped stabilize and heat the steel.

XT-CF20 is 80C Oh what to do...

What happens if you slow your print speed way down to 40 mm/sec?

I wonder if this would be something for the new ColorFabb nGen?

Oh yes, the spam bots and scripted log ins/ad posts...you really had to stay on top of the updates and they weren't always easy

I just completed this upgrade a month ago so I may be able to help! 1) I made no changes to the Z steps. I followed the directions, upgraded the firmware and made sure to note the Heated Bed Upgrade. 2) Yes, you replace the top switch but not the bottom. 3) That large thing of grease is for the washers to the aluminum bed contact. The small green one is for the Z-screw 4) Could you post a photo of the print head? If you have an Ultimaker Original, as I do (kit form), you shouldn't have to change anything there. (I also do an Atomic Pull every time I change filaments to make sure the nozzle is clean) 5) I would have to search but there is an XY Jerk or something like that in the Ulticontroller. The UMO is a noisy, chattery machine. It's a lot like an R2-D2...loyal but noisy! 6) There's a lot of different ways to explain it. Essentially the best way came from GR5. Use a piece of paper as a guide, so that it can barely slip through between the head and print bed. With the 3-point bed, I start at the back, then the front right, then the front left. I then go the center and check, using the back adjustment as needed. I repeat this once. When you have a print, add 3 to 4 lines of Skirt. When the print starts, you will see the skirt line being laid down. No filament? Bed too close. Filament look too rounded....bed too high. Filament look smooshed into the glass....perfect. You may have to adjust those knobs a bit frantically but this does work very well. (Silver filament very hard to see on bed!) 7) In the Start/End GCode tab. Near the bottom is a line that shows, be default, extruding amount (3mm). I crank mine up to 10. 8) I've never checked my motors for temperature. My printer is in the basement where is stays around 65F 9) I do not know! I know you want to account for shrinkage but unsure how much

Well I sent @SandervG an email with some ideas.

I know the software isn't going to change. I respect the other points of view. But when you see contributors voice frustration and opt to only stop in periodically...especially Mr Olsson Block himself...well...being here for 3 years, I have certainly noticed the engaging conversations drop down considerably. You can paint me as any muppet you like

YES! He wrote back saying he had some. But if I can get a combo deal with filament, that would be sweet too

Ok, correct section of the forum this time I was looking at this special for the carbon filament and hardened nozzle....problem is, it is not in the USA so prohibitively expensive (shipping more expensive than items!) 1 x XT-CF20 3mm 750g spool 1 x E3D 3mm x 0.4mm Hardened Steel nozzle I think it was verified earlier that the nozzle will work in UMO Searching for a USA reseller ...and need to read up on how best to print with this material!

Where are you? I just upgraded my UMO to a heated bed plate, so I am no longer using my original one.

Well nuts. It looks like I get to join the ranks of Carbon Fiber experimenters unless I can find something else. Kapton tape isn't something I really want to mess with

What's interesting is how nicely these two shrouds printed I'm curious....would XT be a good choice of material for the shrouds? Or would the heat kill them too?

Well that is for the right side Here's what inspired him...this is for the existing fan (left side)

Here's the second fan test fitted. I am not sure it would fit above the metal piece due to how the shroud slopes I'm also questioning if I should print it in XT or something that will tolerate heat better? I am also noticing where the heating block threads into the next piece up (ceramic?), that if offset a bit. I'm not sure if that is a problem since messing with that will just make the nozzle offset (again) Here's the test fit... Also, here is the part from Thingiverse

That's not a bad idea, I'm curious if what I printed would (1) Fit there and (2) Survive the heat.

Yikes, again my post went into the wrong thread. My apologies

Well I just registered a domain and am going to see about putting something together

Sorry, wrong thread....my iPhone was being wonky

Okay. I dropped @gr5 an email since I know he is a reseller and I'd like to give him my money before others I also found Printed Solid has some if he is out. I just have to be sure it is 3mm and 0.40

Can the Ultimaker Original (with heated bed) use this filament? Would the steel nozzle fit the heater block? I am wanted to print some new fan shrouds and it was suggested the metal filaments or CF. I'd was curious about using the steel tip only for CF then putting the brass one back in for anything else.

Printed Solid had Stainless Steel but sold out in 2.85 Hmm. Has anyone printed COLORFABB XT-CF20 on a UMO? Can it? And....if I wanted a 'hardened nozzle', do they make one that the UMO can use?

I'm not sure I could use that in the UMO

There's not a lot there. Even a forum sticky would be more useful for FAQs