LePaul

I have been having some prints lift off and producing the dreaded filament spaghetti too! I haven't been using the glue stick, just the heated bed and printing directly on the glass at 70C However, being it is summer and it has been humid this week, I am wondering if those conditions could cause the prints to pop loose?

Welcome My boss's wife was from The Netherlands and poured me the coffee you serve there. Wow. Powerful stuff. I think I was able to sleep 2 days later

Only with UMO? Well...Mom always said I was special

For this current project (BB-8), strength is needed so upping the infill is one way to get there. It's been fun to try out nGen and I found printing it without fans gave a good result. But less strength isn't what I need, although something that is strong and can endure sunlight temps would be nice. There's a lot of "prints as easy as PLA but stronger" marketing out there. I guess I need to experiment some more!

I love the bridging, I have been doing some round parts for a frame structure and I didn't get the "hairy" effect PLA has given me. However, from what I see on the datasheet, this stuff isn't nearly as strong as Colorfabb's PLA/PHA material (if I read it right?)

No, not the first few layers...which is expected behavior But turning on at layer 0.5 when unchecked in Cura...shouldn't do that

Not one mine....tried again.

My fans turned on when it hit layer 0.5

That puts my in progress BB-8 to shame

Is this just a bug I'm experiencing or a known issue? Doing some nGen test prints and they advised no fans. Unchecked the Enable Cooling Fans and saved to SD card. Ran the print...fans turned on I was able to shut them off via the Ulticontroller but, of course, it should work in Cura

No hurry....just trying to learn about the product

Thanks, @gr5 I know I would be interested in getting some things from you (the better/more slippery Bowden tube, new coupler, etc) Ping me on Facebook if you want when you have those I'm really interested to understand the improvements from stock 0.4 to this new nozzle for a UMO. I see there's more changed for the UM2/Olsson Block.

Well of course, it's like a laptop versus a desktop PC. Power flickers shut your desktop PC down. A laptop has the battery built in to drop to should AC power drop. You don't need Reddit for that answer

I'll cut the fan way back (or off) on some robot test prints and see how that goes!

For an Ultimaker Original owner, what improvements would one see if they replaced the stock 0.4 nozzle with the Matchless 0.4? Thanks!

I was really curious how he made out on this, my fan "on' during nGen prints have been stringy. Would you use those same fast travel speeds for a UMO?

On a similar note of "Where my prints fail/blow up"... Anyone else get the filament jams when near the bottom 1/4 of a spool? I made sure the filament movement was smooth, no tangles....but that extreme angle just plugged up the hole into the UMO feeder. My solution was to just remove the remainder of the filament from the spool and let it hang of the side of the desk.

So far...none. But having a thunderstorm roll thru 75% into a 4 hour print motivated me !

It was a long ride for sure. Trouble making the shroud with XT-CF20 was tough. I may give the Carbon Filament filament another try and make a better shroud with a smaller opening (I made mine a little too big). Colorfabb gave me some detailed settings to try out. I definitely went way outside my comfort zone on this upgrade and I'm glad I did so. And I certainly have a lot of envy for those who have shiny new Ulitmaker 2+ that printer this nice out of the box

Hi friends, I just wanted to add some of my experience with this upgrade It's been a long road of experimentation with my Ulimaker Original and shroud upgrade. For those thinking of doing this upgrade...it's worth it! A few things I had to sort out, with Neotko's un-ending patience... 1) Finding fans that closely match the original can be tricky. The fans I went with are much, more more powerful than the stock one. However they had the right size/fit (50mm) 2) Calibrating the fans is a long process that requires patience. Essentially you are trying to find out what speed your new fans match what was "100%" on the old. In my case, 14% seems to be a close match to what "100%" was with the old. Crazy as it sounds, my new ones push 14 CFM each! A lot of algebra on converting fan speed to percent from 255 3) Wiring matters. Routing the fan wires away from the heater wires is important. 4) Firmware! A big part of my setup was getting the Slow PWM and other features from Amedee's builder installed. Big thanks to him! 5) Lot's of robots. Many test prints! But in my case, I feel I have the right fan speed locked down and I am back to printing again. And the results with dual fans is noticeable. I hope this helps others along!

I've printed that before (Anders' wrench insert) Go slow, 40 mm/sec and 205-210 (every printer's temp is a bit different) I printed mine at 0.2 layers (100% infill, it needs to be strong)

Nice find...those always show up on auction just after I've paid all my bills. Timing!

Good tip (hey that's a pun!)

I'm not using anything special...just this APC model Being a robot builder, I have several 12v 7ah batteries that will fit this. I just hadn't thought to replace the APC battery and use it! I have a couple of these APC Back Ups I used on my desktops a while back. Since going to a laptop, which already has a battery, I hadn't thought to use them until yesterday The fancier ones have USB support and software, so when power fails, the computer software has the ability to close all the apps running and shut the computer down cleanly.

Well in my area (Northeastern United States...Maine) we had severe thunderstorms and two tornado warnings...one verified. The weatherman on TV gave an interesting statement...watch out for lethal lightening. Really? We've had non-lethal before? We've been told 'chance of thunderstorms' for days on end and none happen. But the one evening I have a 4.5 hour print underway, it strikes! Thankfully no power loss. ...and now, my Ulitmaker Original is plugged into a Battery Back-Up system, so should the power go, I have an 45 minutes of power on battery.