LePaul

I thought all printers shipped with a .4mm nozzle? How does one get a .5mm? An "opps" in manufacturing?

I'm going to try some of the ideas....especially making a robot print with about 6 layers of skirt! I think @gr5 has a really clever idea. Level per the paper fit, starting with the center one, then the outside ones....then start the print and be ready to crank up/down to get the proper "smooshed" filament spacing. He also had a great post from 2013 about bed temps and prints sticking best, which has given me some ideas. 55-60 seems to be a good range from what I am reading. But that's another topic! @SanderVg, I guess my only critique to the Ultimaker side of this is this...there wasn't a very smooth hand off of information going into the heated bed world. How does the heated bed affect bed leveling? What temps should you use? What won't kill overhangs? What prevents edge lifting? The include gluestick is nice, but what do you do with it? (A few swipes? Follow up with a wet cloth?) While the community provides a lot of the answers, the broken Search engine pulls up oldest entries first lately. As someone that does technical documentation a lot, I think if you added some of these basics to customers, that would be a big help. I've sort of spun in circles for a week looking for information a lot of people knew from trial and error. Perhaps we can compile that into something new users can find quicker? Just thinking out loud.

I'm surprised to see such high temps when printing PLA. I mean, using ColorFab material I've always stayed within their 195-220C range.

Sadly, I have had another beloved cat pass away this week. I've lost two in 3 months. Both were elderly, the most recent had asthma and went into respiratory distress on me...I rushed him to the ER vet as fast as I could to get him on oxygen and meds....but he died 15 minutes later. I'm haunted by remembering his gasping for air...poor cat. He died in my arms. I've been looking around YouMagine and Thingiverse for a nice memorial to print for his boxed, cremated remains. If you guys happen to spot something, let me know. I know many of you are pet-people, so I thought I would ask my friends here I'm down to one cat now! Poor thing has been grieving and she's adjusting to being all alone in the house. I may have to add a playmate in the future.

Well it's nice to know I am not completely crazy after seeing others struggle with it too. Being bald, I have no hair left to pull Maybe @SanderVg can chime in with some suggestions from the company workbench!

I agree, I wish the firmware/Ulticontroller could get a makeover with some bed leveling/test skirt stuff without going the route of a test print

That's genius!

The UMO+ uses the U2's electronics tho, right? So, referencing what @gr5 said, you're printing at the .8 The feeler gauge at 0.8 would work for you. Not sure which feeler gauge would be ideal for the UMO?

Great tips! Now for the life of me, when turning those knobs, I never remember which direction brings the bed up or down! Clockwise? Counter?

Yes, that's what I was referring to...being sure not to mash that!

I've gone through and re-read this thread, since my heated bed has been a challenge. One thing that struck me...wow, 240C for PLA? I'm using ColorFabb PLA/PHA and those filaments prefer the 190-220 range. Some good tips I gained from here... 1) Large prints (for me, over 2 inches wide), 70C seems to be good at prevent curling/lifting. In other threads, people mentioned lowering the temp after a few layers to 60C or lower. 2) Diluted wood glue is great if you don't want to print on a very warm bed. 3) Prints with overhangs and high bed temps don't mix (actually they droop...) Lower temp after first layer is on 4) Bed leveling is a bit more challenging with heat, but when done right, can last for quite some time!

I had something similar happen with the Move Z option. I was cranking the knob and suddenly the bed just zipped to the bottom and kept trying to go. I quickly powered the machine off, waited a moment, then back on. That controller seems touchy

Ok, so as far as the bed height/distance you are referring to.... I had a printed robot and tipped it sideways, sort of used that as a 'jig' so to be best guess, all three screws were in an equal distance

Good day I don't think the glass is warped and from what I recall of the assembly, the screws sank into the countersunk holes completely fine. But it is certainly worth checking the glass and re-examining those holes. I was wondering how far those screws should be tightened on the bed. Ultimaker's document only said "Don't screw them in too tight". I think your suggestion about a measurement makes more sense (again, I wish they would review their documentation) The order of calibration you mention also makes good sense! I felt like I was going in circles with some test prints. I had the right gap height going on, start print and then it was suddenly too high and no plastic being extruded. While the print was still trying to run, I attempted to slide a piece of paper between the print head and bed...it wouldn't fit through. I also have a minor problem with the z-cap rubbing on the back left of the machine. Now the documentation on the bed leveling annoys me some...notice there is step 73, 75 and 76. Where is 74! As someone that does documentation in IT, stuff like that drives me crazy

Hi thanks for responding I'm leveling the 3 spots where the adjustments are I've gone thru the USB cable-calibration for the Z stop after the upgrade. I never got the '4 squares' the documentation stated I would get...but I got the perimeter print out. (The documentation really needs some updating)

Hi...so with my UMO, I am used to heating the print head to 180 and using a sheet of paper to level the bed. Since the heated bed, its very problematic. I heat the bed to 70C and the printhead to 180 I used a sheet of paper and use the 3 points, making sure the paper can pass through. However I notice on the outer edges of the 3 points, say the center area (left of and right of), I have to adjust for those areas further. About 50% of the time, once the print starts, somehow the alignment is off and now the bed is too close. I've been using a business card (the one that came with the ColorFabb filament) hoping that a bit thicker paper might be the cure. Well, now I don't have that smooshed-down plastic we want for the first layer. I don't see a way to calibrate through the Ulticontroller...so I've continued to experiment manually. Help!

Nope it needs to be warmer. I cannot remember the last time I had a part lift from the bed, at least 18 month plus. My settings are... Bed with glass plate Adhesive - two coats of lightly sprayed extra strength hairspray Glass plate heated to 65c - as measured by digital thermometer over the area covered by the first layer. 1st layer resolution .3mm Printer speed 20mm/s Printer door open and roof removed Fans off Extruder temp. 210 - if I am doing a print with the extruder temp. below 195, then I might drop the 1st layer temp. down a bit from 210, it depends on the model. I nearly always use a brim these days. After 1st layer has completed I drop bed temp down to 50-55 and start adjusting the extruder temp to desired temp. I start the fans after layer two, building up to 100% by about 1mm model height. It appears the default first layer speed is already 20 mm /sec

I'm getting so many notices that are ghost ones.... I can't think of any other sites I frequent that have so many basic issues with their forum/community website. :(

I've seen a few threads and with the search not working well, I thought it best to ask. Going from a UMO with no heated bed to one with a heated bed has been quite interesting. A lot of things you Ultimaker 2 owners take for granted is brand new to me!

So using the Ulticontroller, how high (in %) would it take to go from 10 mm/sec back up to 40 (or more?) How high can the Ulticontroller go above 100%?

I'd slow down to 40mm/sec and 210C...and set Flow back to default (100)....try again

I recently upgraded my UMO to the Heated Bed Plate and while I had everything apart, I discovered a lot of things had come loose over the years. Some of the electronic terminals needed a half twist to be snug again. I also had the two back cover pieces to the rods come apart...the nut was still on the thread but it wasn't a lot of fun to put back together! Good luck!

Do the parts come out with a glossy flat bottom using tape?

Hmm so first layer at 70C bed temp then back it down to 55 after the first couple layers are on? I usually print at 40 mm /sec , nice balance of slow but not crazy fast Interesting to see what others are doing. From all the videos I've seen about the Ultimaker 2, I hadn't seen much discussion on bed temps

That's a very enlightening and good piece. I'm pleased Ultimaker has been successful and shipping a lot of printers I look forward to seeing what the larger printers will offer. I know with my R2-D2 and BB-8 printing, larger would be very convenient!