LePaul

Yeah, as we noted on 3dprintingforum, my nozzle isn't sitting flush. I assume the block has to be hot to get that barrel to unscrew at all

The guys thought my brass pipe and heater block needed a gap...but in taking the head apart and comparing with a spare hot end kit, those thread into the heater block flush. No gap. I can reduce the acceleration and do a robot at .1mm and 25mm sec. shortly

@gr5 , I don't understand your advice...I can't run the fans that high...they are too powerful Did you mean ringing?

Last night's overnight print...

Okay From left to right... Fan at 12% , 10% and 8%

100% fan and the printer will hover like a helicopter The acceleration settings....in Cura or Ulticontroller? Here's a test print of the Ultimaker Robot (210C, 40 mm/sec, 0.2 layers) Fans at 10% I'll leave the temp alone and try lowering fans to 8% and then at 12%. More prints coming

Any thoughts on how to improve the print quality? @gr5 ?

From bottom 205, 210, 215, 220, 225 40 mm/sec Fan at 14%

I'm curious if this temp variation is of any concern? Leave alone? Too much fan?

I found i was underextruding the first layer starting at 200, but 205 worked good to start Fans are at 14%...which seems to feel about as forceful as the single fan was way back when Now to increase the temps manually as we go!

I had a similar issue with 2.1.2 but with the skirt lines I had the option for brim lines but couldn't get the amount of skirt lines to display despite them being enabled in settings Changing the profile to high quality, then manually editing things down my settings gave me the ability to set skirt lines to 4 finally.

Should i focus more on raising the temps or lowering the fans further?

Hi I have installed the upgraded dual fan shroud that Neotko designed and after refining the firmware some, have done a large test print. I am using 50mm fans. I suspect that my 50mm fans which are rated for 14.13 CFM are extremely powerful and require me to really tune them down to much lower speeds. That's where I am trying to fine tune. I also just replaced the teflon piece Here's my large print, where I printed at 0.2 layers and 210C I had the fans running on what I thought would be an equivalent to 100% of the original ones. (Again, we're experimenting) I decided to up the temp to 212 a little ways into it since I noticed the infill look hairy. As I kept checking in, I noticed the print head temp was moving from 210 to 214 a lot, so I reduced the fan speed a bit ever few minutes to see if it could stay more stable. Here's the result...thoughts? Keep bringing the fan speeds down more?

What are you looking to get for the UMO+? Spare parts nice....but I wouldn't be interested in the spools (got too many too!)

The amount of work he puts into those videos is impressive (I love the snarky side comments he makes) I recall he was laid off from Microsoft a year ago and has done a good job with the content of his channel. I've never met the guy but imagine he's hilarious to be around. I didn't mean my comment as a dig on him....I like his content...just not one I could watch every day I follow Thomas Sanladerer's channel too. With his engineering background I really like how he breaks down the technology for the viewer

All good points as my replacement pulley was not as long as the pulley that came with the kit. I had to adjust the spacing from the motor to the pulley. You are right....the belt would rub against the wood. I have it now so the belt is tight and not rubbing against the wood frame. I haven't spotted any black dust and this first test print looks promising! Now to sort out the best way to dismantle and replace the teflon!

I agree with your comments, he is entertaining but I find I can only take him in small doses.

Hi guys Well the motor pulley is fine, the marks I made on the motor shaft and hub has no movement I traded the hex screw driver that comes with the UMO for an allen wrench and cranked all the set screws on the rods down. Each took a small turn when tweaked down. The test print came out with no slant! No to cure the next issue...a suspected, worn out teflon coupler

Interesting that I had recently seen Barnacules Nerdgasm had a video episode on this.

I still have badly leaning test prints (Y axis) after replacing the pulley with a 2-set-screw model. Asides repeating the process of check the pulley and tightening the belt (already tight) again...where next to look?

Be careful that the cover for the build plate (wood piece) doesn't rub against the back of the printer...on my Heated Bed Upgrade, it does. :(

Thanks for the tag....I'll review I was able to get the Ultimaker 2 Extruder Upgrade kit recently and Printed Solid (for you USA readers) is a good source for Ultimaker parts. Fabrc8 doesn't respond to emails (then faults the customer), so be aware there are other sources.

Hi Erin, I cut/paste directly from your Contact page to support. No worries, I was able to find a solution elsewhere

Well they are all tight again...I had loosened them in an attempt to do the XY calibration described in the video link. Unlike the video, I did not have access to all the set screws as easily as the presenter! The new pulley for the Y motor has two set screws, which I cranked on as hard as I could. I had to seat it a little closer to the motor (1 mm) since the belt would rub the wood frame otherwise. More testing tonight !

I probably do not need to do this....but I have been having difficulty with prints leaning on the Y axis I just replaced the pulley with a new one that has two set screws which should help. I suspect the other one was working itself loose somehow. But then I saw about aligning the axis. In my assembly, I do not recall doing this.I have loosened the pulleys but the set screws, no matter how hard i try, one winds up opposite the other. What's the best method to complete the calibration if I can't access all the set screws?