LePaul

I see they have the UMO+ fan on their support page. I says it is not compatible. Is there a difference in voltage? Size? I'm not sure what the specs are on the UMO and the fan it has/shipped with it? I can't be the only one still using a UMO I've seen a few more shrouds on Thingiverse but doesn't give dual flow as you mention. Looking forward to your ideas and feedback

In parallel....so you just splice the leads into the existing wires? I know I need to do something, I have a lean tower of pisa situation ha ha Any fans you can suggest (Amazon, etc)...just want to match up with what i have. Actually, the bearing is bad on my current fan, starts up noisy then gets quiet. The whole machine is a combination of noisy things lol

@gr5 I found this dual fan type thing and was curious what you thought of it

I just noticed that you have a UMO+ so the fan is different than that of a UMO I'm searching for an add-on solution, as you did, for something like this to fit the UMO

I've thought about adding fans..... (and I can't believe I didn't think of that reason!) I just wasn't sure what type/style fan to install or how to power it Order another stock UMO cooling fan? Upgrade ? I've seen a few dual fan UMOs out there but wondered what has the best mileage

Are you running the latest firmware?

I was printing at 0.2 mm What was odd was it was only one side

The whole review is just a sham. And that's why few people read their site. When i search 3D printer reviews, they are no where near the top hits.

That was a great read, I'll have to share that on my Facebook with my 3D printing friends (especially the handful of psychotic Solidoodle owners!)

I'm still saving for my Ultimaker 2 + ! Good to know!

Some of your "Cons" are rather laughable, to be quite direct. "Foul odors printing in ABS" Really? So tell me, which printer DOESN'T have foul odors printing in ABS?? "Sometimes difficult to remove finished objects from print-bed." And that's with every 3D printed object, be it on Blue tape or heated bed. I could go on...but I think your review criteria is flawed. If that's how far you had to dig to find Cons on the Ultimaker 2+....well, it's outstanding then!

That's a very expensive...yet impressive, set up

Again, lot's of false notifications for me today. I wish they would fix this 8)

I used up my ColorFabb black PLA/PHA and had to switch over to Matterhackers Black Pro Series PLA. It suggests lower temps than the ColorFabb and went well. My first test print had a rough buttom, which lead me to realize the nozzle should be a closer to the bed. (Neat way to find out!) It wasn't shiny smooth as other prints. I had a print fail on me too. The part came off the bed while printing on glass at 60C. It was a 3 inch wide by 5 inch tall piece. 2 inches up, it popped loose. Thankfully I caught it before the air spaghetti-plastic got too crazy I tried it again, same temp (60c) but this time with the glue stick, smudged around with a wet cloth. That did really well, once the bed was cool I really had to wiggle to get that off the bed. One thing that puzzles me is the overhang on one side was a little bad.

I wish there was a way to sticky your comments on bed temps, or add to the wiki I was doing a 3 inch wide by 5 inch tall print at 60C and the part came off the bed about 2 inches up. Glad I was nearby when it happened and could safe myself some air printing/noodles I wound up doing 60C again but I applied some glue stick then smudged it around with a damp paper towel. It actually took a little bit for force to remove but not a lot. I've had most prints pop off the bed once cool I'm having some troubles with overhangs but not sure if it was just the way this print was or if the bed temp affected it.

I wonder if I should use support and print it upside down

Ahhhhh Bowden Pops! The nightmares are back....I'm off to the therapist!

Any thoughts on that failed print?

M107 ;start with the fan offG21 ;metric valuesG90 ;absolute positioningM82 ;set extruder to absolute modeM107 ;start with the fan offG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstopsG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstopsG1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mmM140 S60.00 ;set bed temp (no wait)M109 T0 S230.00 ;set extruder temp (wait)G92 E0 ;zero the extruded lengthG1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stockG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length againG1 F9000 ;set speed to 9000;Put printing message on LCD screenM117 Printing... Well I see on the UM1 one, the bed temp goes to 60...good, then I need to change the temp to 215. Then the filament extrude to 9mm (just works better) My ColorFabb filament is (2.85). I didn't see anything in that gcode that would address the layer size?

Well the other annoyance is the upgraded Z-Cap rubs against the back of the printer. I really don't want to take the thing all apart and sand the back of it. Every time the z goes down a bit, you get that wood-on-wood squeak...and it's not killing the prints...but just adds the chattering charm of the UMO

I completely agree. The biggest frustration with the printers is the assumption of knowledge. Add to that a forum that is a nightmare to search and....well....let's all pause and let our anxiety drop a bit.

Well how many of you have Ultimaker Originals with a heated bed? I mean the Ultimaker 2 is manufactured for you...so there's a difference there. (Not to knock my kit assembly...!) Ok, I looked at the link and see the gcode. I just need to use a text editor to change the temperature to something a lot lower (like 210). My ColorFabb isn't rated to go that high and do nice things!

Noob question follows....how do I use that? Copy/paste to the SD card?

That's excellent! My UMO is very noisy too!

It's a different creature, for sure. I thought I could level it once and be good for a few weeks! Still learning!