LePaul

Let me add a photo...

I'm also noticing...with the bed at 55, this print I am doing, it has a large square base....the front left as lifted up some from the bed. Should the bed be a tad cooler? Or resort to brim?

I guess this screen has me a bit stumped...

Question....how should you adjust the Ultimaker 1 profile to use the Heated Bed?

The combing

Just installed the Heated Bed Upgrade to my Ultimaker Original and wanted to do a long test print. Overall a good print, it was stringy in areas so I think the retraction needs tweaking. The surface shows all those zig zags...not sure how to clean that up? (Noticed the picture of it on Thingiverse looked the same too) Since I had to add a new printer in CURA, I think I need to search for the tweaks I had as a stock UMO! But, tips appreciated Put it to work right away ColorFabb Black PHA/PLA, 210C 40mm/sec, 0.2 mm layers, Bed Temp 55.

ANOTHER little discovery....for those going from unheated beds to heated! BED LEVELING! For years, prior to loading the file, I would heat the print head to 175 and use a piece of paper to calibrate the bed. Just a touch of friction and I'd call it good. Well with a heated bed, you need to HEAT THE BED as well! Heat rises, so that little gap you thought you had tuned in just right is no more! I discovered this the hard way. I had a print starting and the skirt lines only appeared on one side and nothing on the other (bed too close). Opps! So...while this may sound silly to those who have had a heated bed forever, this was all new to me. The upgrade documentation really doesn't walk you through basic calibration as thoroughly as it should. (Especially, as in an upgrade situation, you've been doing your own way for years!) I guess what I would be GREATLY interested in knowing is....How do you calibrate your bed? What I did....and not sure it's the best way to do it...I pre-heated the nozzle to 175C and the bed to 55. Disabled steppers and did the 3 point bed leveling with a sheet of paper. I find this kind of funny yet very educational.

I've had good luck with ColorFabb as well. Although white is a challenge!

Interesting thread, I just got the heated bed working on my UMO and the idea of dual fans seems like a good idea (my robot test print had some real overhang troubles on the right side) I see fans of all shape and size online and wondering if you can 'splice in' another fan into the existing fan's power lead?

Pulled a cracker? I love this forum being so international. Being from the United States, my mind was wondering if it was a Saltine or a Ritz cracker

I turned off the [annoying] 'New Print' notifications and just got another. Can you guys please go buy vBulletin Board or the like Or one that works with the Taptalk app?

No Z issues showing, just annoying sound...I wish I could get in there to adjust it minus a complete teardown of the z-axis. And it's only that one side showing the rubbing.

I'll try 60C next time...didn't you recently post a lot of details about best heated bed temps? I searched and searched for that, but the search function on the forum isn't quite the best. A follow up question... If one were to use the 10:1 ratio water & PVA Glue, what temps would be advisable? Same? Lower?

I'm sure there's some really great tips out there....and I've tried to search for them! Here's my question and I hope others can chime in with what's worked for them/hasn't worked.... I'm a new member of the 'My printer has a heated bed club' ...I just installed the Heated Bed Upgrade kit in my Ultimaker Original. A few complications but I really had a good time with it. I did the first test robot print on a the 70C bed. I noticed the little guy's hands, which are the big overhangs in this print, really had a tough time. Since that's a small object and the hands are a 1/2 inch above the bed, it probably got pretty warm...maybe a tad cooked! On larger prints, I am guessing this wouldn't be a problem? So, friends....what tips can you offer! Maybe my question will help a newbie out someday!

I moved the bed up and down a few times using the Z movement option on the Ulticontroller. I also added a bit of grease and the movement is very smooth, just that rubbing where the Z-Top cover rubs the back of the UMO back piece. A little annoying but knowing the source isn't mechanical...I'm OK with. Plus UMO's make all sorts of noise and this new bed just continues the tradition. I recorded the entire upgrade process and am going to post my YouTube review of the upgrade on my channel soon.

It's been very wintery here too I got yelled at for using alternate transportation

Hi Yeah the Ultimaker Robot test print was tough, the hands, the first overhangs, had a really tough time! I need to find out what the sweet spot it for temps on the bed

Crease forming...Z-Cap rubbing back wall

Okay heated bed working! I see a crease on the back piece of my Ultimaker from the Z-Cap rubbing against it. Should this be a concern? I mean it will eventually wear ...but it's a bit noisy as the Z moves. I'll post a pic soon

@gr5, just checked....yes to red light! But not to the heated bed PCB so that got me thinking... I recalled that where the red/black where screws into the power terminals seemed a little wiggly. I unscrewed the terminals, removed the wires and put them back in again, going a little extra tight. Well, now we have red LEDs on the Heated Bed PCB! And since the heated build plate wasn't attached to the bed....i discovered how warm it gets! Right now I'm doing a test print and impressed how flat the first layer goes on a 70C plate! One other thing....is it normal for the Z screw to sound ticky? The print is going very well, asides the usual robot hands looking ugly...and the Z layers look good. Maybe a bit of grease?

I see what you mean, okay...so I should see SOME sort of red glow if the bed is heating... New part was shipped, so if that's the problem, it should get here in 2-3 days

PVA glue is what's suggested, right? Like these....

I don't see a lot of documentation about use of the included glue stick with the heated bed printers. I noticed many do not use it, instead taking advantage of the heated bed When I tried out the glue stick, I was wondering what to do with those smears Use a wet cloth and spread it around? I know I have read where some use a few drops of wood glue and water, paint it on the glass and allow to dry I'm just really curious what people have used and suggest? And if just glass printing, what's the sweet spot for temps? I really want to retire the blue tape for good since it takes TONS of force to remove my prints on the UMO

Thanks for your responses. To turn on the bed only, I have been going into the menu, Temperature, Bed and turning that up to 50. Correct? I do not see a red light on the new PCB. I did not think to check the main board as you suggested. I will check the TEMP 3 area for a light when i get home I just heard back from fabrc8 and they think the cable is bad and are sending out a new one under warranty. I will check that red/black wire on both ends (as pictured from the manual)

USA Support replied with some good advice. I took the bed apart and verified that everything is connected properly. To your question about the RED LED....no, not present. I loaded a print and the printer said Heating Bed, then checked. Just the GREEN LED. Here's how the wires are connected to the bed. Per the documentation, it's all correct. USA Support asked me to check the resistance per this graphic. AS you can see, I am way lower than the suggested (same reading on all three spots)..No idea why the forum software insists on displaying it sideways... Any idea what's gone awry based on this?