LePaul

Since others have done this...what would be a suitable make/model for UMO fan? (Not +) My Original fan has a bad bearing...usable but noisy. And I want a second to add additional cooling on the right side. I have been looking for a Y adapter to attach two 2-wire fans but have not found such a device yet. I assume the replacement fan needs to be able to do PWM? Edit: Would two of these, spliced together, work?

Is there a way to pipe in a Google search into your forum software? It would be nice if Boolean searches (and, or, etc) are used to filter by the search keywords. I know in my reading of carbon fiber filament recently, I got many hits but not many entirely relevant. The same goes for Ultimaker Original searches, etc. You wind up with a lot of UM2 hits before UMO ones.

It's a good start. Thanks!

Neotko made a good point about the heat required for the XT-CF20 being high enough to damage the PEEK in the UMO. I am wondering if this filament isn't safe for the UMO to try to use? All the searches I have done online have shown UM2's using it. Not UMO.

I've had this happen on a topic yesterday too. This one, if it helps any

As usual, I just don't "click" like the rest of you

I use ColorFabb almost exclusively on my UMO. I just installed the heated bed a month ago. That has been quite an adjustment from blue tape If you use blue tape, they advise you to wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. This removes the waxy surface and promote adhesion. But we aware, on my UMO and blue tape, it held so good it would rip the tape, no matter what I did! I always got a little tear requiring replacing the tape. Once I got the heated bed, I had to re-learn what I thought I knew! I use the glue stick on a warm bed, I am surprised others do not? I find it smears and melts nice, so I can use a damp cloth (microfiber) to smear it around the bed. After a few minutes it is all dried up @gr5 had a nice write up on temperatures of the bed and force to remove a print. I wish that was Stickied or in the Tips and Tricks! I know if I use the gluestick I can keep the bed temp low. (Since the UMO only has a cooling fan on one side of the print head, I need to do this, otherwise overhangs on the non-cooled side droop). I tend to see good results between 45-55 on the bed temp. When I start a print, I start the first layer at 60 and then, via the Ulticontroller on the UMO, lower it to that 45-55 range. A tip others gave, do some extra skirt lines. This will help you see how good your bed leveling is. If the filamet is smooshed into the bed, you have done good. If no filament, too close. If filament looks rounded, bed to far away. I have found quickly adjusting those 3 knobs while this is underway is a great way to make sure that first layer will be awesome.

I've never heard mine do that and recently installed the upgrade a month ago

A couple of my co-workers are big Fallout fans and had asked me about printing this!

Well note that is says MORE ColorFabb Materials... So they are just plugging their other products. I haven't tried XT yet or nGen...but on my To Do list.

I saw this and noted it didn't list much for specs...interesting.

The surface of the blue and red look great

My z-cap rubs against the back wall too! It isn't affecting the print quality but I certainly hear the "squeak" every time the Z goes down.

This might help you with the design part... http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing

Your questions... 1) I recall someone else had troubles with their steps. @SanderVg might have some more information on that. I had that worry too, but the firmware upgrade worked for me 2) I don't think the switch is used at all now. There upgrade instructions do not say to do anything with it. I wondered that too. 3) There's no 3! 4) I do not have that print head. Another one for Sander to chime in on! 5) There's been some discussions in here about the XY Jerk settings. I am not sure what the final resolution was. You could do a search (be patient, it has issues) and see what is in those threads. Hopefully someone else can chime in 6) Leveling...I am not sure how to answer those. I know that it is essential for that first layer to get mushed into the build plate for a smooth finish. I struggle with this when using lighter colored filament like silver, which can be hard to see on the glass plate when glue stick smeared on No 7 or 8... 9) @gr5 might have some knowledge on this subject 10) Not sure, I'd have to see what the others suggest. 11) I control the bed temperature through Cura (make sure Cura has the right Printer Profile for you, you need the heated bed to show up). I set it to 60C at first, then once the first layer is down, bring it down to 52 (via the Ulticontroller). There's a lot of hit or miss here and GR5 has posted a lot about it (again, searches). I also found the gluestick is a very good thing for allowing lower temps (like 40s) with good adhesion.

I think others have mentioned no fans at all for this filament

As a pilot, I am impressed! As a 3D printing person...doubly impressed!

Yes but those details help!

Well Printed Solid is running a special, same as E3D is (i asked lol) https://printedsolid.com/products/colorfabb-xt-cf20-e3d-hardened-nozzle-bundle I ordered mine a few minutes ago....looking forward to trying it out on the UMO !

Ooooh that carbon-fiber weave too

Here's what he did (thank goodness for subtitles) You're right, location is essential but so long as you don't go too low, it could work

I'd be very interested in your results. If that works that would be a nice, low-tech fix

I saw a YouTube video where someone cut a round piece of copper, drill a hole in it for a set screw, that attached it around the base of the steel nozzle. He found that the heated copper helped stabilize and heat the steel.

XT-CF20 is 80C Oh what to do...

What happens if you slow your print speed way down to 40 mm/sec?