LePaul

This is a great discussion! I'm learning alot...keep it rolling

See I have that already with the existing build plate! It gets to temp, oozing, homes to 0,0 and causes a gooey nozzle for a few seconds....which probably explains my under extrusion for those first few seconds

I have some no-name blue tape I bought at Lowes when painting a bedroom a while back. I'll try that!

Nice to hear from you, gr5 :smile: If I use the alcohol, the tape rips and sticks to the part. A real challenge to clean up If I don't do anything to the tape, sometimes I run into what looks like under extrusion, or the filament not able to grip the surface. Usually, if using brim, it does go on after a few seconds. So I am trying to find that happy medium Or donations for a heated build plate :cool: LOL ! I have my machine working pretty well, though Ultimaker blue pla still makes the bowden tube pop from time to time.

How about the latch that closes up the extruder? Is there any slack in there?

I'm open to suggestions on other devices then!

I have an Ultimaker original and am having a terrible time prying my prints off the 3M Painter's tape. I have to remove the bed from the printer to remove the prints with a thin, metal paint scraper. A heated build plate would certainly fix this but my job was eliminated in budget cuts a month ago. I'm searching for a new job and hope to land one soon. Unless Santa brings one! But seriously, I could use some tips/suggestions. Larger prints are really tough!

Well true, it does flow, I started the print and the first layer does go on better

Thanks for that. Well, it was a neat thought....I wonder if the version 2 is any better?

True, you may be right. Can't hurt to tinker and try it

If you have the Windows Kinect, I found a good tripod-to-kinect adapter http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8570 Note you need to select the "kinect_nut.stl" as he included the original file that does not accommodate the 1/4-20 nut. Edit: Tried it. Not a good design. You need to bore out the center hole (5/16") for the 1/4-20 threaded screw (from tripod) to pass. Furthermore, on most tripods, only 1/4" or so is available, so you do not over-thread too deep into your camera. With this design, once placed on a tripod, you can't thread into the 1/4-20 nut (you provide). Talk about frustrating! Push, tug. pull, cuss...you might get a half turn in, that's it. Try to lower the Kinect into the adapter and the "snaps" that fit inside the slots of the Kinect break. This design looks a bit more promising http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5004

You may be on to something, I keep getting that first layer under extrusion since I tried printing at a cooler (210) temp. Thankfully printing with brim fixes most of that, by the end of the first pass things are flowing well Its the first few seconds that seem to lack. Removing the brim after really stinks, I have to remove the build plate from the machine and pry like crazy to get the part removed. I certainly have adhesion! I just wish I could remove the part a whole lot easier! Maybe I'll up the temp in Cura then after the first passes go OK, lower it manually.

There's about 8 of them! Not sure which to toy with first Oh, per that Instructables link....Kinect Fusion Explorer WPF

It will only run on Windows 8, in case you hadn't caught that. I have 8.1 and am going to toy with it a bit, try to make due with the Kinect I have Looks like I need to find and print a tripod adapter

Sure! Here's a start The accessories are part of the mold and not removable

I may need to invest in the newer model it seems? The latest is http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/kinectforwindows/meetkinect/default.aspx This is the model I have http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-L6M-00001-Kinect-for-Windows/dp/B006UIS53K I dug around a bit and wanted to see what the differences were. Seems Infrared and a few things? http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/kinectforwindows/meetkinect/faq.aspx

I couldn't find the actual download for Kinect Fusion? As you can tell from my profile pic, I have quite the Batman suit. I'd like to scan the belt, which was molded in rubber and either 3D print one or CNC from lightweight aluminum Would be fun to try!

Just curious....why no fan?

First, has anyone done this? I have searched around a lot and found numerous programs that will do scanning but I haven't seen any that will generate an OBJ or STL I have a Windows Kinect and was curious if this might be handy to scan some objects for printing Thanks for the help!

I've had some really nice prints that need clean up to help remove those fine lines (0.1 prints). The Smooth On product looks interesting. I've also seen a lot of various talk about using rock tumblers with a variety of materials inside. Most of those discussions were based on prints using the Bronzefill to bring out the shine. But on regular PLA prints, I am really curious what people have used successfully for everyday prints, such as these...

Isn't there one on YouMagine?

Maybe this was mentioned elsewhere but my biggest gripe with viewing the YouMagine gallery is so few results per page. 9 items (3 x 3) is just too few. Like most online stores and catalogs, either give the viewer the option to increase the results/items per page or let it continue to build, such as the "other major website for 3D printing content"

Thanks guys, I appreciate your feedback. The print came out OK, I am printing in my (unheated) basement and the temperature stays about 55F I've found printing under 200C doesn't go very well, so 210 seems to be the happy number.

Thanks for the YouTube video of the polishers. It looked like the stainless steel idea, while quieter, made for a lot of clean up to remove that black dust. How would those work on regular PLA prints, I wonder?

I'm also noticing the "dotted line" , so wondering if the retraction isn't enough or...something? I have it at the defaults for High Quality printer, lowered the temp to 212 a bit ago once the brim was done. Note top, going from right to left