LePaul

Thanks for that feedback. I have an Ultimaker Original I hope to upgrade at some point. Many of the prints I want to do are taller, so the Extended would be ideal

I'm considering getting a Ultimaker 2 Extended and was curious about your experience with Dynamism (sounds all positive) Did they include any free filament?

Is there like a ratio/best practices on that? I've never messed with the travel speed and only changed the default print speed to 40-49 to get better results

The one surprise to me was their hesitation about using 3 mm (2.85+/-) filament. Overall a good review (it should've been edited down, it seemed to go on forever in areas!).

I think with notifications disabled, we're won't hear back until he logs in again

Nice review! I want one :-)

Any tutorial videos you guys can suggest to get my 45 year old brain into gear

Find a teenager that doesn't know everything! Rhino is easy? Wow. I've done a few tutorials with it (Lynda.com) and still can't do the basics I miss being young !

The more I see quality prints like that from ColorFabb, the more i need to order some!

I've used my printer to make some parts for my robot project (full-sized R2-D2). There's been several times I have needed to make shims, various sized washers/spacers and mounting devices for Arduino UNO's inside my droid (electronics and bare aluminum produce expensive blue smoke!) I haven't found the right CAD software I really like and usually Google Sketchup gets me buy. And of course, I've used items from Thingiverse for stuff already designed. McMaster-Carr is offers many of their parts offerings in CAD files, which can even be printed! Great of prototyping with my droid

I have a file where, when loaded, the part shows up extremely small on the build plate. The artist who made the part said this is a common problem solved by converting the units in my software. He suggested doing so in Netfab. I looked around Cura and didn't see a means to do this, unless I missed it?

Perfect, thanks!

I bought some black 3mm Pro Series Black and was thinking about giving it a try. Pro series is supposed to be tighter tolerances and the print temps looked lower than what I am used to... The primary differences between the PRO and the standard are: The PRO Series has slightly tighter tolerances (±0.05mm vs. ±0.07mm) and more precise ovality. 2.The PRO filament is more opaque in certain colors (i.e. red and blue are going to be fully opaque in the PRO and more translucent in the standard, whereas you won't see a massive difference in a color like black). 3.PRO Series is made in the USA. I have an Ultimaker Original and thought it would be fun to try....but again, curious if someone else has used it already and what their opinion was (And I'm trying to liven up the forum a bit!)

I haven't heard anything bad about USA retailers. A quick Google search showed they are for sale with MakerShed and Dynamism Me, I would lean towards Makershed since I am active with a lot of their Maker Faires

Well it turns out my Academic Version expired 2 weeks ago, so when i contact SW about renewing/upgrading, I will ask about Win10

Oh no. I have SW 2014 Academic and upgraded to Windows 10 last week. I wonder if it will run?

Google Sketch Up is what I have use a few times for small parts. There's some good YouTube tutorials on how to use it, Google has video tutorials and I think even Lynda.com has training as well.

I was thinking the same thing...maybe a kick/dent like the other printer might help Just a shot in the dark, wondering about a partially plugged nozzle. Maybe an atomic pull ( ) ?What filament are you using?

I'm trying to give the new format some time to evolve. But yes, now that I am visiting more often, I am surprised how the forum traffic is not what it used to be a year ago.

What labern said, you'll see and hear when the shafts need it!

Lot's of good ideas mentioned. Any chance you can video record the movement, sliding the print head around and the trouble spots?

Ok, so I'm not crazy, it isn't enabled Perhaps disable the option until it is available?

Get the sewing machine oil and lubricate the rods. I forgot to do so after 6 months of disuse. While it worked, it was NOISY! I just use a small piece of cotton (cotton ball), dribble some oil onto it and work it around all sides of the rod. You'll notice you clean some debris off. Again, just a little goes a long way! Disable the steppers and slide the print head around.

What do the bushings in the slider block look like? If the shaft is straight, something in there must be causing that rise?

I used to have email notifications when a reply/comment was posted on a thread I was following I checked my settings here on Ultimaker and they point to my email address, which i made sure was correct. I have the "Follow your topic and receive reply notifications" checked in the topics I follow (including this one!) Is there an issue with the email notifications? They aren't getting hit by my spam filter so I wanted to see if they are actually going out. Thank you.