LePaul

I bought it but have not installed it. Being new to 3D printing a year ago, Daid and other members suggested getting the hang of using a 3D printer first before delving into using 2 extruders. Since I haven't seen a lot of Ultimaker owners using the dual extruders yet, I have kept it in the box for now....waiting to see how others have used it and printed with it

Sorry to revive an old thread....but I still haven't seen a lot of people using the Dual Extruders upgrade to the Ultimaker (Original). Or, are you out there and haven't posted printouts using it

Nice to see it is out! The manual had be thrown a bit, I was reading Left, right, left right but see in Europe its reading Top, Down, (right side) Top Down. I'd love to see some video of how the new and improved setup works

A whole new build platform sounds great versus tweaking the original....cool

Man I hope not, if its that expensive, it may be money better spent on an Ultimaker 2....we shall see

I noticed that too. I think some readers think any old laptop/PC can run simple CAD software but it really depends on what you are looking to do. Rhino3D seems to run well on any PC I have run it on, for example...but I know SolidWorks wants some serious power. One frustration I have with SolidWorks is I can't open a Google SketchUp (SKP) drawing, unless I use other programs to convert it to a different format (3DS) and then import it in...which can take hours even on my Intel i7 processor, 32gb of RAM and a 580mb/sec solid state disk.

I was thinking a case fan used in a PC would pull up enough airflow....thanks for the info

If you've searched in the military, you can get the Academic version for $20 I just received the 2014 Academic version and watching the tutorials on Lynda.com If you veteran SolidWorks guys have some training video links, please share!

Did that http://www.ebay.com/itm/Borosilicate-Glass-Add-on-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Heated-Bed-kit-Reprap-3d-printer-/161309237571?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258ec7a143 come with a power supply? I like how you sealed up the printer. I have wanted to circulate the air to knock down the fumes as well too and was thinking of a basement-window mounted fan, similar to a bathroom fan. What changes were needed to get the plate into the build platform? Any difficulty leveling the bed for printing?

How many lights do you see....to quote a great Star Trek TNG episode

Any updates on the heated build plate upgrade? Very anxious to see this happen!

GR5 is a great guy, he's helped me along when I first put my Ultimaker (original) together Hang in there, as you have seen, 3D printing isn't plug n play...it seems every print requires some strategy!

Yes saw a post in the Updates area that gives me hope!

I haven't seen much mention of updates or upgrades to the original Ultimaker in the forums....and news or information coming soon? I haven't used my printer a whole lot lately and when I do, the heated build plate is something I keep hoping to hear some news on. Thanks!

I do a lot of shipping for the aluminum parts I produce and sell to fellow robot builders. Here in the United States, the US Postal Service offers flat-rate services for certain box sizes ("If it fits, it ships") but there is also limited tracking. But that's from here. Receiving from other countries, such as Ultimaker or when I contract out the fabrication of a part to Europe or Asia, DHL has proven over and over again to be the best. Cheaper than FedEx and UPS most times, I have never had a DHL shipment go missing or get damaged. So while I may not always like the costs of shipping...DHL has always done right for me

I've had great luck with the included silver-gray The https://www.ultimaker.com/products/pla-blue is so shiny..I've had a few good prints with it but there's something to be said for a more subtle color!

Well, I have the second extruder kit but to be honest, the prints I have seen done with different colors looked more like a "marble" effect than distinctly different colors. I knew it was experimental when I bought the upgrade kit and looking forward to see what comes about

Do you have a modified print head? At first I thought you had a Ultimaker original based on the print head then noticed the wood bed.

Not sure if this is old news or not, but I found it quite interesting... http://www.3dprinterworld.com/article/mold3d-showcases-diy-supports-with-zbrush

You are pretty really, really fast! I know when I crank mine up that fast, Bowden tubes pop out For an aircraft model with that level of detail, I'd slow it way down, set temp to 220 and walk away for a few hours (Or as RONCO commercials say "Set it and Forget it!")

Its an Ultimaker original and usually the fan doesnt run on the first layer

The other day, after leveling the bed, I started a print at 210C (PLA) The first layer went on like this: . .... . .. .... .... .... Rather than the usual: ______________________ I hadn't changed anything with the PLA, the extruder.....just the temp. Too cold? It eventually built up some layers and printed ok.

I found, thanks to the assistance of GR5, that setting the print speed down to 30-40 area, most of my problems go away. I print mostly at 220-230 since the printer is in the basement...but I printed a part that had some stringers yesterday, so I think it may be time to lower the temp some too. Off to try 210!

I've almost used up my entire spool of Ultimaker silver PLA on my Ultimaker (Original) printer. As I have learned more about my printer and the art of selecting the right speeds and temperatures, I thought I would inquire about different materials and brands. I know PLA isn't super strong and for most of the things I am working with, that hasn't been a big issue. But now I am getting into some projects were more strength is better. Since I do not have a heated platform and ABS isn't an option until Ultimaker offers such upgrades, I was curious about the other materials I have seen on PrintedSolid.com and elsewhere. The woodfill looks amazing for certain parts where the wood texture would be ideal What about the Taulman nylons? The colorFab XT? I'd like to hear what's worked for other Ultimaker owners and any tips they wish to share! Thanks! Paul

I've been trying to replicate a Module 1.0 15mx15m rack, since they aren't available here in the USA (and wow, shipping from the UK for a $9 part!) Ultimaker Original, PLA, 220C and speed of 40. I wish the rack edges came out better.