gr5

I have no idea. I would leave it in a 30 to 50% humid environment for a few days and see if it gets less brittle. If it does I'd go back to storage that is more humid than 10% and less than 50%. It sounds like NBull recommends 20%.

I never heard of this problem but 10% is lower humidity then I get with a sealed bag and 45 gram packages of dessicant so maybe you are correct - maybe you got it too dry. Is it only the outer meter of filament that cracks easily? Or if you throw away the outer meter of filament is it okay after that? I have PVA that is 2 years old and still works excellent.

If you print at 2mm/sec then you are probably not pushing the filament very hard but yes the CF can destroy your feeder. Fortunately feeders are easy to replace. The symptom will be that it underextrudes when you go back to PLA. If you push the filament hard then the filament is slipping and the CF is grinding down the feeder gear. But if you print at only 2mm/sec then your feeder should last forever even with CF filament. A lot of materials don't do well if you print too slow. They get too hot. The nozzle temp for colorfab XT is supposed to be around 250C.

Please be more specific. For example: 1) Is it warping off the bed? 2) Is it underextruding? 3) Is it clogging completely? You need the bed to be at 70C. If your printer doesn't have a heated bed then this will be very difficult to print. You need a ruby nozzle (for example see 3dsolex.com everlast nozzles) as the carbon fiber will wear out the tip of your nozzle in just a few hours. You need hardnened steel extruder gears (e.g. see bondtech) as the carbon fiber will wear out (smooth) the extruder splines (or gnurled pattern depending on feeder type) and ruin your feeder.

I believe so, yes. I use them mostly with 0.2mm to 0.3mm layers (for speed). I find if you go thinner than around 0.06mm the visual quality starts to get worse again. The "Z magic number" for all UM printers is 0.04mm which means you get more integral number of Z steps if you print with 0.16 layer height than 0.15 so I recommend 0.16 over 0.15 layer height but it really doesn't seem to matter much and I always forget and have often used 0.15. But more likely 0.2 or 0.3 (0.32 would be smarter).

The full step magic number for the UM2/Um3/S3/S5 I believe is 0.04mm. There is 8 substeps so you can go finer accuracy than this but 0.04 is a good number to use for the "magic number".

This topic is 5 years old. And Daid doesn't work for Ultimaker anymore (I guess his commute was just too long). Although in theory he might make some edits to the cura engine and then do a pull request.

Yes I'm guessing you are right and you shouldn't have saved your profiles. Not sure. But anyway there is a folder - I forget where - on windows I think it's in %appdata% or roaming or something. It has all the profiles for cura in there - if you delete everything in that cura folder (in %appdata%/cura - or similar) then restart cura it will create the proper default profiles automatically upon launching cura.

By the way, that ps4 thing with the logo - it doesn't need any support for that logo side (is it a logo?). You should disable support. It will come out MUCH nicer without support.

I can't think of how to ensure zhop runs on every layer unless you add a tower and print the tower and your print at the same time. But zhop I think makes stringing worse as well? I forget.

As far as I know z-hop was invented for delta printers and never meant to be used for non-delta printers. I could be wrong. I've NEVER used the feature. Well I used it once and realized quickly it was a bad idea. So of thousands of prints, I think only 1 had zhop turned on.

So I couldn't figure out why some layers look slightly different in ideamaker but I did notice that those layers that look different don't have any z hops in them. 90% of the layers have a z hop at some point but the layers that are *different* don't. So realize that when it is doing the outermost layer - since that is the last thing done on the layer, if there is a single zhop anywhere earlier then it is approaching that particular Z height from above. But on layers that have no zhop it is approaching that layer from below. This can make a difference in how it looks. I've always said that zhop should only be used for delta printers and this is why. You get a different Z height if you approach from below versus from above. This is not true for deltaprinters because they have to deal with "play" much more seriously else all moves would be messed up.

@burtoogle - this "ideamaker" viewer is free and there's even appimage versions.

Sorry. I'm an idiot. I meant the gcode file.

Go into PREPARE mode. Across the top (just under "prepare") on the left core click there and instead of having it auto detect your filament type, select the filament manually. I suspect the intent profiles are only for PLA and only for the AA 0.4 nozzle but maybe there are more. "tough pla" might not have the "engineering" profile but you can print TPLA with PLA settings just fine.

wtf? Please post that STL file somewhere.

Oh and by the way - z wobble would not create these sharp lines. Wobble creates much larger bands - more like 5mm tall.

I'm extremely skeptical about this. I think the lines on the print and the lines in Ideamaker are a coincidence. I'd like to see the same print in "real life" and in ideamaker to see fi the lines "line up". Now this blue print - those horizontal lines are caused by a layer either under or over extruded. I guess the tow most obvious lines are under extruded and the 3rd most obvious - near the top is over extruded. Because you have both over and under extruded that limits the possibilities: 1) Z issues 2) Temperature issues #2 - It could be that your nozzle gets colder for a whole layer and then recovers (so it extrudes less that layer) and then hets hotter near the top. This would have to be at least 5C to be visible. #1 - much more likely. But 10 different possible causes and a pain to figure out. What happens is that sometimes it doesn't move enough - for example if you have 0.1 layers and it moves 0.09 for 5 layers and then it suddenly moves 0.15mm (eventually it always catches up). Those 0.09 overextruded layers by 10% aren't visible but the .15 layer (33% underextruded) is easy to see. Basically this is caused by play but it's hard to debug 0.05mm of play (half the thickness of a sheet of paper). Often it can be fixed by cleaning your z screws but it can be caused by z bearings, z rods, z screws, and most importantly z nut. It can often be fixed (or improved) temporarily by tying lead weights to either end of your Z (at least 2 kilos to each end). You can try a quick cleaning with a tissue and a toothpick/small screwdriver to get in the threads but be aware these z screws are typically triple helix (3 separate grooves) so cleaning one groove will miss the other 2. You only need to clean at the bottom if you are only printing small test parts.

Ah. I stand corrected. Although the Anycubic Photon S is a DLP printer so it probably doesn't take gcodes.

Here is a summary of the difference between the normal profiles and the accurate ones. You can set these settings in your favorite profile and either create a new profile (not recommended) or always do "file" "save" and later if you want to repeat these settings on a new part, start off by loading the saved project (I have had much better luck with "file" "save" than with saving profiles). These settings are material agnostic meaning they should work with all materials but only the 0.4 core. Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 35-40 (all speeds, except travel) Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3 Inital Layer Height = 0.1 Slicing Tolerance = Exclusive Combing Mode = off Outer before Inner Walls = Checked

I've met tinkergnome in person and I've read hundreds of hist posts. He is very polite. I suspect you are reading some intent that is not in his post. I try to be polite also. The underlined bold part was simply copied from your own post. I'm not sure if that made you think he was being snarky or something. Tinker is simply trying to be helpful - I'm also pretty sure (80% sure) Cura does not work with any resin printers out there at all. None. Tinker and I could be wrong. For example resin printers have very bizarre (for FDM printers) requirements for support. You want to never have a large flat side of a part touching the first layer. Instead it is recommended to tilt the part (not sure how much - at least 20 degrees?) and add these tree-like support structures. Also there needs to be a base under the tree. Also make sure you print with 100% infill with resin printers. I'm sure there are at least 5 other details I know nothing about that make cura incompatible.

But someone has to test all these profiles. I checked the other day and in fact there are only about 225 profiles. But still a lot! and each time you create a new profile for a new printer someone has to test it at ultimaker. And probably (hopefully) they retest it on every upgrade as well. As for the UMO and UM2 - those printers profiles I believe already use very accurate profiles that also make nice looking prints. They don't need new profiles (I don't think they do). It was the UM3/S3/S5 printers where UM seems to have shifted to nicer looking prints instead of keeping it as accurate prints. Now they have profiles for both "intents". So it would indeed make sense for the UM3 to get these extra profiles. Maybe in the final release, the UM3 will be included.

workaround: do shift+right mouse drag to correct where it is zooming into. Maybe post this bug on github - it might get more attention.

So I never dread updates because I don't save my own profiles. Instead I save "projects". Do "file" "save" in the menu. I do this everytime I slice. So let's say I slice my special flashlight in CPE and now I'm printing a different design flashlight. In CPE. I think, "hey - I did a similar print - version 1 of this flashlight" and I go find the project and load that. Now I have exactly how everything was setup. I find this works very well since cura 2.0. Most of my 3d printing friends all complained about profiles and the ones who stopped creating profiles and use the "project" method instead are all happy. It sounds like a stupid way to do things but when you try it you will realize several reasons why it's a better method of saving your settings (in other words I could go on and on explaining the other benefits but I won't).

They seem to only exist for the S5 and the S3 printers. Not other ultimaker printers. Not non-ultimaker printers. You probably don't need them for your printer as the Creality people probably created the best possible profile right from the start but here's the deal - UM was creating profiles that created really nice looking prints. One of the things they battled is probably ringing and to combat that they did an amazing job with jerk and acceleration control. But the focus was on things like good overhangs and not being able to see infill through the wall of the print. They also focused on speed. However a lot of customers don't care how pretty a print is and care more about the dimensions. Because of this they concentrated on accuracy with one of the new profiles. This changed about 10 settings in Cura. The prints still look pretty good except for ringing (which is too small to measure with a micrometer). It's a change in focus/intent when choosing cura settings. They decided to call this "intent" but really they are simply more profiles but grouped by intent. There's nothing preventing creality with creating profiles with different intents and they can utilize the "intent" feature when they do so (to group them). I don't think the "intent" profiles include very many materials and nozzles but they are certainly in the most common: 0.4mm nozzle/core and PLA.