gr5

What is the material "break temperature" for "generic pla"?

I really don't know. I don't have a material station and my firmware on my S5 is several years old. I just know that my print cores don't cool as much. 60C is most likely the correct temperature. This is basically a "cold pull". Google it if you aren't familiar (add "3d printer" to the search). It could be that it needs to be slightly warmer for you for some reason. Maybe your silicone nozzle protector isn't keeping the nozzle warm enough because it is falling apart. Or maybe you have a weak feeder or higher resistance in your bowden due to wear. Or windier, colder environment. If it were me, I'd be curious about the 60C and play with it. Somehow I assume you need to get the above profile to copy over to the printer. So you have to basically update this material profile, then somehow delete it off the S5, then sync up the material profiles (last step is the easiest). Actually I would check what that temp is for "generic PLA" and if the temp is higher I'd tell cura I have "generic pla". I'd probably rip out the RFID tag from the spool so the printer is fooled more easily although I think you can manually override that even if it disagrees with the RFID tag on the spool. But I would never have bought the material station in the first place. It's just one more level of automation keeping me from controlling things on my printer. Keeping me from feeling the tension or being able to do manual loads and unloads of the filament where I can feel resistance and potential issues every time I change the filament; where I can feel how hard I need to push before filament comes out of the nozzle nicely to see if my nozzle is partially clogged. One more potential for things breaking or clogging. So maybe I'm not the best person to talk to about this. 😞

You don't have to download them from github. You can use the "marketplace" button in cura. But you may have to log out first because if your account email matches a company that is paying for enterprise (I'm not sure if that's the right name) cura then this locks down some plugins. But just log out first. Or log in using a different account with a different email not associated with your company.

Perhaps @nallath or @ahoeben can suggest something. Or try smartavionics who has built his own version of Cura many times over here: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/discussions (he doesn't post on this forum anymore so try his github account where he is more active).

60C seems wrong. That seems too cold. Are we talking about PLA in all 3 places? (pla in the printer, printer *knows* it's pla, cura knows it's pla)? I could be wrong. Maybe 60C is correct but that seems awfully cold. My S5 definitely does not cool that much. It cools for maybe 30 seconds only before retracting. I could be completely wrong about teflon/Ultimaker issues. I know it was once a problem with some 3dsolex cores. Ultimaker tends to consider the cores as "consumables". They are cheaper than filament as long as you get a new core no more often than every 5 or more spools. Of course the CC cores are much more expensive.

There is a way to switch the Olimex to the other type but it's not trivial. You might want to ask ultimaker support for help in doing this or you could ship it back.

Good idea CarloK2. I moved this to a new topic.

It's almost certainly a slicer setting - specifically you probably have "spiralize" enabled. Read about that feature. Decide if you want it or not.

Short answer - it's 98% chance there is a problem with your model. Many cad software are more meant for creating 3d gaming or immersive environments and don't worry about physical reality so the objects are not solid. Cura either gets confused by too many or too few triangles/surfaces or sometimes makes the wrong (arbitrary) choice. We call it "manifold" when a 3d model is solid. The most common issues come from blender or sketchup which are designed for graphics/videos but not solids. Both of these packages have fantastic plugins and features to make your model solid. What cad are you using? Cura also has a plugin that can test your model. Please post your STL file and someone might analyze it for you. But you probably have extra walls or missing walls somewhere. Or the "normals" are backwards (again - common in Blender and Sketchup but rarely happens with normal CAD that creates manifold parts). For the Cura plugin that can give you hints as to the issue (shows bad normals or missing/extra walls in color), I'm not home but click on "Marketplace" button and make sure you aren't on materials tab and look for "mesh tools". I think it can also fix the normals for you (the plugin).

I agree! When people google "bad layer abs", they should get the answer they need with the latest information and not have to start a new topic and wait for an answer. Especially if the 6 year old topic has useful information.

I think if you create your own private account (free) that doesn't have enterprise (is that what it's called?), you can log into that, install what you want, then log back into the enterprise account. I assume you have to use a different email for this.

If it prints fine the whole print but often won't come out at the end... Or if it won't start printing right after a successful print... Then the problem is typically with the teflon inside the printcore. Both Ultimaker and 3dsolex can potentially have this issue. More generally, the problem is that the inside diameter of the print core immediately above the heatsink may be larger or smaller in diameter (usually larger) and the filament softens enough to at least partially fill the larger diameter space and after it cools it won't go up and it won't go down. If you heat the core long enough it usually softens enough to start feeding again. More specifically the most common issue is that the teflon is either cut a tiny bit too short so there is an air gap between the teflon and the heat break and you can get filament sticking far far into that gap. Or the teflon inner diameter is .2mm larger in diameter than an earlier batch that was perfect. If I'm right then some cores should be fine and other's get stuck more often. If you have a piece of filament that is stuck in a core and then slice filament with a hot knife just above the "trumpet" and disassemble the core you can use that piece of filament as a measuring device to see where the issues are - if it passes nicely through the teflon but gets stuck in the "trumpet" then you know and one fix might be to drill out the trumpets and the upper aluminum heat sink. Which can be significantly larger. Until it passes through. OR if the problem is that the teflon isn't long enough you could add a tiny slice of a spare piece of teflon "donut" to the top end to keep the teflon in place. Anyway, if it was me, I'd go for this last option in above paragraph (take apart and fix all the cores). I'm not sure how to modify the "temperature when to retract the filament at end of print" temp. This is a pretty important feature because it keeps the filament from creating a very thin long string which is okay if you print again right away but it can get trapped in the bowden and cause all kinds of clogging issues if you don't let the filament cool a bit before retracting.

But that only affects the bottom of the part, right? He included a picture of the top for no reason then?

So I'm not sure what the issue is with your part. It looks reasonable to me. Glossy black shows up the tiniest of defects because of the large contrast between a reflected white light and the blackness of non reflected light in the black filament. So there is a large possibility that whatever defect you are seeing exists in the other colors but is much more difficult to see. Perhaps you are new to 3d printing and have overly high expectations. Perhaps your issue can be easily fixed. But I don't know what the issue is. I'm trying not to be condescending - I simply don't know exactly what your issue is. Perhaps it's the staircase steps thing? That is controlled by the slope of your part and by the thickness of the layer slicing. Now I think it looks like you have a brim? Did you try disabling the brim or try removing the brim to see how the part looks without the brim? Is your issue with the part the brim itself? You really need to be specific as I don't really see a serious defect. Because I don't know what to look for.

@MariMakes

What is "SR30" and what is "Labs extruder"? I know maybe 100 materials but not sure what SR30 is. And is "Labs" a manufacturer of 3d printers?

Are you using the octoprint plugin for cura?

do you have windows, linux, or mac?

fbrc8.com assembles all the ultimaker printers in the USA and they have their own support department. They have every part even if not mentioned in their web store. But I'm sure they won't ship outside USA. If you know the part number, any reseller can get you the part. I'll send kman a direct message to see if he can reply to this but you could contact fbrc8 directly and I'm sure they would help you figure out the needed part number so you can then contact your local reseller.

This issue seems to have been solved. A firmware engineer piped in over on another topic here:

Sorry that I don't know much about Cura not starting. I'm using ubuntu and it's fine for me. There are 2 different appImage's for linux - did you try them both? One has "modern" in the name, the other doesn't.

Did you look at the log file? There's tons of known issues with simple fixes related to things as diverse as operating system, graphics drivers, bad configuration files, etc. Please post your log file.

You mean you have a bunch of nozzles or a bunch of clogged print cores?

is it worth it? It will take an hour of your time to swap out the nozzle so if you work for a company that is spending probably 100 euros per hour on you (includes benefits, taxes, etc) it probably is cheaper to just buy a new one. Ultimaker wants you to think of them as a consumable, like filament (you should certainly be thinking of them as cheaper than filament if you only replace them once every 10 spools). But if you are on a tight budget and don't mind spending the hour to save 100 euros... how to change... The nozzles are super long (the threaded region alone is probably 2cm) but you can get them through aliexpress. On youtube search for "um3 ultimaker 3 core disassembly" to see my not-fantastic video on how to take them apart without damaging them (they are delicate). unclogging There are many ways to unclog a nozzle. For example hot and cold pulls. tiny needles. There's even an option in the maintenance menu to help you do this. Or you can take it apart as per above video and once the nozzle is separate you can just burn it all out. I don't recommend getting the brass red hot but if you do it will weaken it but it's still plenty strong even untempered.

If it's still paused this very moment, then I'd contact support immediately. I don't know if they work weekends, plus it's already 7pm in Netherlands but they know more about this kind of thing than myself (and probably more than Dustin although he knows a lot). They will probably email you back around 8am Europe time. They all speak english quite well. Click the 9 dots in the top right of this page, choose "support" then at the top click "submit a request" and then submit a case.