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Cura will turn the fans on gradually so the PID algorithm has time to adjust. It sounds like your fans aren't aimed well - you want them on the part but not on the nozzle. There is a setting in cura where you set it to full speed at a certain height - default I think used to be 5mm which was much too high - should be more like 1mm. Cura will move the print speed and fan speed slowly in linear steps as it goes from bottom layer to the "full speed" layer height. So you can play with those settings to make the fan come on gradually. I'm really not sure but I suspect more fan will help you. Slower print speed will probably also help at least for the first layer where you switch from "infill" layers to "top" layers.

That doesn't sound so bad. Some kind of resonance? It sounds like a pure tone. Loud, high pitched, but almost a perfect sine wave. Does your Z screw have a small amount of grease? You want a pea sized dot of grease - that's enough for the entire length of the screw. How about the two Z rods? I would wipe them clean and add the smallest amount of oil to them. 1/4 the volume of a single rain drop for each z rod.

If you have an opto-isolated relay then you can just do the normal method and use the relay to short it to ground when you want the printer to stop and leave the relay open normally. There is no reason to connect J23 to anything when you don't want the printer to stop as it already has a "pull up" resistance.

I suspect you won't get any good answers here as these printers have been pretty reliable and when this sort of thing happens I think a reseller deals with it. This sounds like a relatively serious problem - an arduino pin could have shorted out possibly due to a faulty core. Or any number of other issues. I recommend you have your reseller deal with this issue. they may need to replace a few boards until they figure it out.

@iRoberti had good luck with some material. Not ngen though. Not sure which material but he got amazing transparency. Maybe try to message him? He's not been active on the forum for about a year but give ti a shot. I talk to him every day (but not through the forum). So if he doesn't reply after a day let me know. I'll send him a link to this topic now...

That triangle is also missing. It's probably the setting "fix horrible A". Search for this. Click the gear and then search for "horrible" among the settings that you can make visible. Check all of the "fix horrible" settings so they are visible and then make sure "fix A" is unchecked and see if that helps. If you use sketchup (which apparently you don't) then fix "A" is quite helpful. If that doesn't do it view your model in "xray mode". Similar to normal view or slice view there should be a "xray mode". Anything that appears red is a CAD issue (non manifold part) that can cause the issue you are seeing.

If you select ultimaker 2 in cura I'm not sure, but it probably doesn't set the temp. I would slice it and save the gcode file and then open the file. Look for M104 and M109 commands. If there aren't any in there then I'm right and you can set the temp on the printer. If I'm wrong and there are M104 and or M109 commands then the printer temp is probably ignored once you start the print. If I'm right then you can just select PLA, then customize it, then change the values you want and then save that. After you hit save you have to say where to save it (that part is the most confusing part). If you select PLA it will overwrite that. Instead select something else like "CUSTOM0" and you can have CUSTOM0 be t-glase. Another choice is to choose "save to SD" and you can put the SD card in a computer and edit the text file and it lets you call it "T-GLASE" or whatever you want and then you can load the settings back into the printer. This particular feature was buggy in older versions of marlin so if you go this route upgrade to the latest Marlin for UM2+.

The UM3 is all open source. You can have one of your developers download the source and look through it. It's very unclear what you want to do however. If you want to just want to tag filaments you can create your own NFC tags with your own materials - each material has it's own GUID so you can make your own GUID for your own filament and you can easily add menus in cura that read that and load the proper profile. Loading the proper profile is pretty easy - I recommend you install cura and look at the existing profiles for PLA and ABS, etc. They default in the cura folder but you can also put your own profiles into appdata cura folder and cura reads there also. So far... zero programming - just create profiles which are basically lists. I suppose they are javascript? But it's like "nozzle_temp=220". Something like that. Very simple. Not really programming. But if you want NFC to access something completely different then you will need to write custom code. All the code that deals with NFC is in python and is on the printer itself. There is a linux computer on the UM3 and you can ssh into it and see all the python code and edit it or whatever.

I recommend you measure the pin when the board is powered on. It will be either at 5V or 3.3V depending on the type of arduino. In other words there is a "pull up" resistor inside the arduino that makes PC7 go to the normal arduino power voltage (3.3V or 5V). I'm pretty sure it's a 5V arduino which would mean setting it to any voltage above about 2.5V normally should be okay and then set it to 0V when you want the printer to stop. If you set it to a little higher than 5V there is protection circuitry that will feed your voltage into the 5V supply. If it's a small amount of power then no harm done but if you put in many amps you can fry the arduino and anything else trying to run on the 5V power. Pulling PC7 only down to 3.3V should be fine (no halt - no damage). In other words if you are using 3.3V circuitry to control this PC7 signal that should be fine.

According to this: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code You can't set the Y jerk differently than the X jerk with Marlin and Sprinter (other firmwares let you). So you will have to use the lower jerk value for the 2 axes. There is a reason for this. Jerk is not the derivative of acceleration in Marlin. Instead it should be called "instant velocity change" or some other name. Jerk is a bad name. Marlin uses jerk only to determine the max velocity allowed at each junction. so if you are printing a circle and the cad made it a 10 sided circle and you are approaching the next line segment to print it looks at the two velocity vectors before and after that intersection. Then it subtract the 2 vel vectors to get the instantaneous velocity change at that corner. Then it gets the magnitude (speed change) of that vector. Then if that speed is > than the "jerk" speed it reduces the speed for that junction by the ratio you are over the jerk speed. Real example: print speed is 100mm/sec. printing the corner of a cube (90 degree corner). The magnitude of speed change is 140mm/sec. If jerk is 10mm/sec then it will divide the speed by 14 and you get 7mm/sec max junction speed at the corner. This is a crappy algorithm if the two speeds going into and out of the corner are different but if speeds are the same then it works most of the time. It does not allow a different jerk speed for Y versus X.

Could it be your pulleys are loose and you need to tighten the set screws? If so you would see the motor turning in X and Y but the head not always moving. Anyway to debug this I would send gcodes manually one at a time. I would start by learning what they all mean and then install pronterface. Connect to your printer through a USB cable: Get pronterface here. It's free: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ Once the connection is working well home the head and then move it with G commands and move the extruder. Experiment. Do the same commands that are in your gcode files. It could be that you aren't setting the extruder back to 0: G92 E0 The extruder will ignore very long moves (not sure what is very long? More than 3 meters maybe?) so if you finished one print and then start the next one and the first extrusion is the prime it might be like "extruder is at 5 meters and now you want me to go back to 3mm position? Sorry: no.".

Make sure you double check the cables to the ulticontroller. Then I would try to reflash Marlin onto the board. That board might have the UM2 firmware instead of the UMO firmware. The displays are very different for the 2 machines I believe. Do you have a windows machine you can use for that step? I don't know Cura on linux - if it isn't connecting through USB using linux I would try windows. When installing and first running Cura there should be a step where you can load the firmware or if not you can do "load firmeare" from one of the menus at the top.

So this is like a 3 minute fix for me. Do you have any electrical engineer friends? Anyway you don't want to measure the voltage on the PT100. You want to measure the resistance. And measure it from the other end of the cable (at the board underneath) and measure it with the cable removed. It should be about 110 ohms. Plus or minus 10 ohms. When at room temp. That error would indicate it is either 0 ohms or shorted. Probably 0 ohms. That error is almost always a bad connection right at the board. Right where you are measuring. So I wouldn't even bother measureing anything. I would just resolder the two connections there under the screws. And also loosen, remove and reinsert the wires and retighten. The thinner wires. The thicker 2 go to the heater which is not your problem. The thinner two go to the sensor.

If combing is disabled then make sure that is enabled. That tries to keep all movements inside the print. If you don't like this because you are getting stringing then that is also fixable. You can print slower (which lowers the pressure) and you can print cooler. I would do both. Try half speed and drop temp by at least 10C. Somewhere from 180C to 210C.

Did you try clicking on the gear icon? then type "hop" into the search box for settings related to z hop.

I believe the red means you have an error in your model. Probably an internal duplicate wall. What CAD software did you use? Here are tips for making sure your model is printable - the advice is sketchup oriented but most of the points apply to any CAD model (most cad software make it difficult to create unprintable models but sketchup makes it hard to create solid models): https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

Just make sure you slice your part such that the part is located in this region. Also look at the gcodes -- especially the first few dozen - and the last few at the end - and make sure they stay within your printable area.

Also maybe slow the printer down to 1/3 speed for the top layer. What is your print speed?

Is this PLA? If so make sure fans are really cranked. More fan! If this is a higher glass temp material than... less fan. What kind of printer is this? In general we call this "pillowing".

well there are a lot of causes. You have to figure out if it's the cold end of hot end. It helps to have experience such that you can simply loosen the feeder and push manually through a hot nozzle and judge if it is extruding normally. the extruder can only push/pull about 10 pounds force. So that's another test - insert the filament only half way into the bowden and fight it by pulling the filament back out while the printer holds the gear in place. It should handle about 10 pounds force before it slips. Once you know a little more I could suggest other things. Here is my list for the UM2 but most of this is the same for UMO - I just edited it below deleting um2 only things and modifying it a little for umo. CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size. For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. Or soak it in acetone overnight (after removing 90% of the material with cold pull). 8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose - I like the sprint compressed to about 10mm. 10) Other feeder issues, examine your feeder carefully - make sure things spin properly - check for tiny pieces of wood... 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder and although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 15) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp.

First of all at 40mm/sec and .2mm layers you shouldn't be going below 225C. That's pretty high volume for a 0.4mm nozzle. You can just barely achieve that at 200C but you will get some mild underextrusion on even a brand new printer with a brass nozzle. With a steel nozzle though you need to go another 5C hotter so I wouldn't go below 230C (steel doesn't transmit heat as well so it will be cooler than the block). But I ahve to agree you do have some issues with your printer. I'm pretty sure you can print just fine at 20mm/sec and 225C but if you want to print at the speeds you used to print at then you are going to have to fix this printer. I would look at the list that neotko sent you but most likely it's the teflon part so I would start with that.

This is a common problem with printers as they get older. It looks like typical Z axis issues. Sometimes the Z axis doesn't move as far down as it is supposed to and so that particular layer will over extrude and stick out like an expanding pancake. Then on a future layer the Z axis moves too far and you get an underextruded layer. This pattern repeats in a somewhat random pattern. Often at the exact same height for different parts. Try cleaning your z screw. That is often all you need - just a papert towel and a long fingernail to shove it in the threads (it's a triple helix so make sure to get all three channels). If that helps a bit that should encourage you to take it all apart and clean it thoroughly with wd-40 then dry it then give it a drop of fresh grease. While it's apart move the bed up and down and check the vertical rods and bearings. Sometimes that's the problem. If none of those things help then the Z nut is probably worth replacing. Many people have seen remarkable improvements by moving up to a more expensive Z-nut (typically 1€ or 1$).

The authors of Cura made it very adaptable to other printers but stopped there. It's up to people like yourselves to create plugins or guides to make it effortlessly slice for other printers. Someone will eventually create add-ons for most major printers. Or you could talk to the company that made your particular printer and have them adapt cura for your printer. And tell them to then do a git pull request and the authors of cura will take care of that so those features will be in the next release.

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CF will wear out your nozzle pretty quickly and wreck it. Basically it sands the tip flat such that the nozzle gets shorter and shorter and quality gets much worse and eventually it fails. I recommend you get the 3dsolex hardcore with 2 nozzles and then buy also the ruby nozzle (or to save money if you aren't printing a lot of CF you could buy 1 or 2 steel nozzles).