gr5

Check out this bump removal experiment on this pumpkin photo about half way down this topic: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/2872-some-calibration-photographs#reply-25010

I've seen those blobs quite a bit. Just lower the speed - that's the easy way to get rid of them. Try 30mm/sec.

You can't do a G92 by itself. It matters where the bed is at the moment you do the command. so for example you could do: G0 Z10 G92 Z10.1 That would move the bed so the nozzles is 10mm above the bed but then tell the printer it is actually at position 10.1 such that when it goes to position 0 it will press somewhat into the glass. Or G0 Z10 G92 Z9.9 In this case when it goes to Z0 it would hover .1mm above the glass. Or you can do as you said: G0 Z0 G92 Z.1 Be careful at Z0 as you can hit a clip. This will press more into the glass. G0 Z0 G92 Z-0.1 This will make the head hover a little higher above the glass when printing.

First and foremost make sure the infill printing speed is the same as inner and outer shell speed. If the infill is faster then it builds up too much pressure and when it slows down for the outer shell you get issues like this. however this looks more like typical retraction stringing. The easiest way to fix this is to just print even slower. Try 30mm/sec and again make sure *all* printing speeds are the same (travel speed should be fast - 150mm/sec is reasonable). Other possible fixes if you want to push the speed a little faster would be to do thicker layer heights (just to save time) and cooler printing temperature (cooler filament means less leakage).

That could be it, yes. Make sure filament diameter is set to whatever your filament is. Basically it's either levelled too far away from the bed or you are underextruding. I can't tell which it is unless you print more layers to exclude bed leveling issues.

There's many possibilities. I'm going to go with "filament not quite reaching nozzle". And it's getting hung up somewhere inside the core. There's a few places where it can get stuck on an edge. So I would push down on the filament release lever on the extruder, then pull it all the way out and cut the tip of the filament into a point and then slide it back in again and when it stops, pull and push a few times to make sure it's all the way to the nozzle. That's my first guess.

Yes and no. The e3d steel nozzles will not fit the UM core and on top of that it's very difficult to change a nozzle without breaking the core. However you can get 3rd party cores from here (disclaimer - I sell these also but not in england). 3dsolex has sold hundreds of these "hardcore" cores which will take many nozzle types including steel and ruby nozzles (ruby is much much harder than steel). http://3dsolex.com/representatives/

>my menu knob does not move the bed, should i take a video of everything the printer does and i do to it? That sounds like the problem. Could you go through the whole procedure very fast - just continuing several times until you get to the problem menu please? And film the begining where it homes the bed also. 1) I'm wondering if you need to proceed one more time through the menu before you can move the bed or 2) Something is wrong with homing the Z or 3) Other.

First tighten the screws a lot. maybe half way tightened between max and min. Then make sure the z limit switch is clear of debris. With power off pull the z bed up high and insert something into the z switch limit hole. Like a small screw driver and make sure you can hear the limit switch click. This is probably not the problem but good to check. Sometimes bits of plastic get in there. Now run the procedure and skip over the first part moving 1mm above in 3 spots. That's just a safety thing. Then when it goes to the back - the part most people don't realize - is that you have to rotate the wheel to get it to touching your paper between nozzle and glass.

I don't know that board so I can't help you but even so I'm 90% sure that jennyPrinter board will only control microstepping with jumpers. Probably near those 5 stepper drivers. Marlin does support M350 but not for all stepper drivers. Definitely not for the stepper drivers that come with UMO, UM2, UM3. I didn't google 8825 though. But if it didn't do anything then it's not supported (but you might need capital letters so try that also M350, not m350). It's great that you have pronterface going! Instead/before homing you can move axes. So move one axis at a time. for example center all axes and then: G92 X0 (tell the printer X axis at now at position 0) G0 X10 (tell printer to move X axis to the right by 10mm. Then measure to see how far it moved. You can't update microstepping through marlin (I don't think - certainly not the marlin that comes with um2) but you should be able to set steps/mm through gcode M92. (not to be confused with G92 above). For example: M92 X80.1 sets the X axis to be 80.1 steps per mm.

There's a feature called microstepping and another feature called "steps/mm". One of those 2 things is off. There *might* be a jumper to set the microstepping on the board. It's supposed to be set to 16 microsteps per step. steps/mm can be set either in the configuration.h file before building or alternatively if you have tinkermarlin you can set it on the front panel. The Z axis *definitely* has a jumper to switch between 8 and 16 steps and it's near the center of the board and sometimes people connect their fan to it by mistake. It should be left open.

Are you talking about 2 materials on one print or separate unrelated profiles? Isn't there a separate cooling setting for left and right cores? I don't know - haven't checked but did you know there is a place in the top right area where you click and suddenly all the settings are shown for the other core. Did you know that?

heater reading anything from 19 ohms to 30 ohms is close enough to not get any errors. But the heater is more likely where your problem is. Pure lead melts around 250C and typical solder melts closer to 200C so they can't use solder when they build these heaters. Instead they are crimped. When they heat up to 200C the different metals expand at different rates. A small percentage of the heaters work fine <100C but somewhere between 100C and 220C they fail and you get the mentioned error. More commonly the heater doesn't work at all. I think if your "good" core works fine in both slots then you've probably correctly diagnosed it to a bad core and should ask your reseller for a replacement. If more than one core fails in the same slot then I'd say you are right that the printer itself is bad and in this case you should ALSO contact your reseller.

Do you get this error randomly, or consistently? At the start or well into the print? It means there is a gcode that is at a value outside of the limits of the print area. For example if your print bed is 200mm wide but there is a G0 X2000 (2 meters) then you get this error. Many things can cause this error but if it is intermittent it means there is a problem reading the SD card where it's getting random bits flipped. You will also notice the print head randomly moving to strange locations for no reason WAY outside your part and then continuing where it left off. But if it's consistently at the start of print or during leveling or something then it's something else.

I really don't understand. I think I need a drawing. But it sounds like you want to do something unusual with the Z height. where it starts printing. I recommend reading about the G92 gcode. For example inserting: G0 Z10 G92 Z0 Will tell the printer to move the head 10mm above the print surface but then G92 Z0 tells the printer that you are now at z=0 so it will start printing from that height from now on. You can write a plugin or just edit the gcode to insert these or similar commands right after homing (e.g. G28 Z0 homes the Z axis).

Cura lets you rotate also. Is there a flatter side to your part? Can you rotate that side down instead? If not I would just have support hold up the entire model.

Oh you already have an Olsson block? That's great. Then you don't need another one. That means you can do some more tests. Back to this later... What? That doesn't sound right. You couldn't get the filament out even when the head was at 210C? Something isn't right. Either the filament is too big for the bowden or maybe the white teflon part in the head is soft and expands easy and molten filament solidifies in that region. This is a common problem on older printers (when hot, the teflon slowly gets softer over 500 hours). I would heat the nozzle to 150C to 180C. Then remove the filament (just pull it out) and then while hot remove the nozzle. Even better do a cold pull first but you seem to have trouble with those. Then I would let it cool below 40C and then insert filament from below where the nozzle is gone. Feel the friction. The feeder can supply about 5kg of force but you shouldn't have to supply more than 200 to 500 grams of force to get the filament through the head and also through the bowden. If friction is high in the head it's probably the white teflon part. You could try loosening the 4 thumbscrews just a little - sometimes that relieves enough pressure that suddenly the filament slides through easily. But if it is the teflon part just buy one. While waiting for the new one you can drill it out with a 3mm or 3.1mm drill. Be gentle and careful but several people on this list have done this and gotten a few more good prints. Note that 3mm filament is too large for the bowden. But usually "3mm" filament is actually 2.85 or 2.9mm and should be fine. I would measure the filament with calipers. Before going through the feeder if it reaches 3mm then it is worthless - throw it out. Or by a larger bowden from 3dsolex. After going through the feeder 3.1mm is max allowable diameter.

This is 90% chance of being the power brick. Those things are not as reliable as one would expect. Some work great. Some don't. I would contact your reseller and insist they give you a new one to try (much cheaper than shipping your whole printer back I assume). You can also just buy one. They are a bit pricey but that may be your fastest solution to a working printer if time is worth more than money. Um used to ship with this power supply: GS220A24-R7B And around when the UM3 came out they started shipping this one: GST220A24-R7B The one without the "T" seems so much more reliable. Both are the same wattage. The same amperage. The same voltage. The same power. But the "T" version seems to shut down more often under full load (bed heating and at least one core heating). I relegated my "T" supply to my um2go which doesn't need as much power. Some of the non "T" supplies also have intermittent issues but not as bad as the "T" ones as far as I can tell from user reports on the forum and elsewhere.

I would absolutely never ever put PVA filament in florida humidity. That's the biggest issue right there. I think you should move something else to the garage. There's always something we can find to throw away or reorganize. I have 5 printers and I don't use them every day so one solution for me is I'm always swapping them out with 2 printers in storage. It only takes me one minute to pull out one printer and put another one in "storage" (storage is in my basement on a shelf). In addition to the PVA issue, it really never gets hot in Netherlands so they don't appear to test them often under high heat. When it hits 75F in Netherlands everyone complains how incredibly hot this "heat wave" is. Before the "plus" upgrade on the UM2 it had problems when the temp got over 80F but the UM3 and the UM2+ seem fine with the heat but still - I would worry about stepper drivers oveheating and shutting off for a second mid print causing annoying issues. The dust is the least of the issues but if the dust is big enough and if it doesn't melt at 200C then it might cause a nozzle clog (it lands on the filament in back, gets moved slowly through the bowden and into the nozzle and then might cause a clog). This can be solved by a dust filter but truly it's probably not an issue.

This is an unusual problem and I think worthy of getting major parts replaced. It could be I suppose as simple as a loose ribbon cable to the display board. There should be 2 cables. You could check that one of them isn't falling out. But I would start by contacting your reseller and asking if this seems like a good idea to try.

Something is wrong with the encoder. I would contact your reseller and get a new "display board" as soon as possible.

Note that printedsolid.com has much more than just the door - they have complete enclosure kits for all the UM printers.

My heart goes out to you @LesHall and I hope you get better.

This is a very very common problem. You might not believe the solution but this is the correct solution: tighten the set screws on all the pulleys for your X axis. that is 6 pulleys. SIX! not 4. In fact the most important two are the ones on the short belt - to the motor and above the motor. Tighten them extra extra tight. If you have an L shaped tool it should hurt your fingers. VERY tight.

red in this case indicates you probably have 3 walls. Are you sure this is xray mode? It looks more like layer view in which red just means the outer most layer.