gr5

Keep cura xray open in one window and sketchup in a second window. Zoom in using the cura zoom controls (plus key on keypad) and drag (shift right click drag) to find the problem face. You have internal walls. If you build a cube with 6 sides. Then add a second cube to the first cube by adding 5 more walls (4 sides and an end) now you have this internal wall that is impossible to print. It is an infinitely thin wall *inside* the model. STL files don't have "insides" and "outsides". They just have a randomly ordered set of triangles and cura intersects these with a plane to get random line segments. Cura than tries to link these lines up into loops but has trouble with this internal wall which is now an extra line segment confusing cura. Here is a visual guide to how to clean up sketchup models: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

If the servos also don't move then it's the 24V relay also known as K1 which really has no purpose (it was never utilized) so you can short the 24V across it. I did that for one of my UM2s. But since it sounds like your failures happened slowly I'd say the cause is something else. Do you know someone who has a volt meter and knows electronics? I would invite them over. The circuitry is pretty simple. Similar to a light switch and a light bulb.

So you definitely have underextrusion but I"m trying to figure out if you have grinding of the filament and if the grinding is causing the underextrusion or if you are just having trouble getting filament out the nozzle. So what I'm trying to say is your description is unclear. I gave you some hints about maybe retraction is causing underextrusion but did you say you turned it off completely and still had problems? If so then obviously the problem is NOT retractions and here is a complete list of causes that I can think of that cause underextrusion: CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size. For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. Or soak it in acetone overnight (after removing 90% of the material with cold pull). 8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder and although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 15) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 16) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500

Just replace everything from "elb" to ".com" with "ultimaker.com" and the link will work. I'll edit it now for you.

The first time I ever tried a .25 it worked fine. Go with thinner layers (.1mm max) and print only very small things and set the temp cooler (I think I did 190C but 180C might be better). Also print more than one item if their horizontal cross section is the size of a pencil (like my prints were). In fact I would print at least 3. This lets the part cool down while it's printing another one. Anytime you change your process (or try to print something completely different from ever before) you will likely have some (usually minor) issues. Switching to .25 is trivial I find compared to say switching to ABS.

I'm not convinced that the 22W heater can't keep up. But I wouldn't be surprised either. 3dsolex hardcores are 30W so you could try that as well and let us know (disclaimer - I sell 3dsolex cores in USA).

See this guide: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide So is it both axes or just one axis? If just one axis then which? This is almost always caused by a loose pulley that screw you pointed to needs to be incredibly tight. The tool you use - it should be scary tight. if you have an L wrench it should really hurt your fingers. If you have the screw-driver like tool it should almost twist the steel. Make sure you get ALL the pulleys on the given axis. One axis has 5 pulleys, the other has 6. Having said all that there is a tiny possibility your stepper drivers overheat and shut off for part of a second occasionally. This is more common with Z axis. Not common with X or Y. But theoretically possible. Consider lower the current. More likely there is also a possibility that your friction is too high or acceleration or jerk parameters. Are you using cura? I think default jerk and accel for XY is 20mm/sec and 5000mm/sec/sec which should be quite safe values to use. Did you mess with these? Check friction - push the head around with your hands. Add one drop of oil to the 4 larger rods and the 2 smaller rods. The 2 smaller rods shouldn't really need oil in theory but I found in practice it seems to help. Check that the smaller rods that go through the head are perpendicular by pushing the rod to each of the 4 sides to see if the end blocks on the rods seem to reach their end point at the same time. Sometimes this is crooked and adds lots of friction. You should be able to move the head with only one finger on each hand pressing on the side blocks.

> and at the end the filament stop to extrude. Sounds like it is grinding up the filament due to too many retractions? I had that problem. There is a parameter somewhere in cura 15.X and I think it is similar in cura 2.X. something like "minimum extrusion before retraction". Set that to 0.4mm or larger. The retaction distance is typically 4.5mm so if you set this parameter to one tenth of that (0.45mm) then it will restrict any single piece of filament from retracting no more than 10 times. There is also a feature called "combing" which when turned on reduces the retractions when it's possible to stay "within" the part without retracting. It should be on by default. I don't think this is your issue but I thought possibly you turned off combing.

@pa9k - so your symptom is that it heats up just fine? Gets up to temperature? but then minutes later (or hours later) you get a temperature error on the nozzle? (not the bed?) Is this a brand new um3? I just got a few brand new um3 cores this week and I noticed that the heater in one of the cores is 22W instead of the usual 25W. Maybe I should check the other cores as well. Although I suppose I really doubt that could make any difference with a .4mm nozzle. Was this a 0.8mm core by any chance pa9k?

In addition to shift right mouse drag, you can also zoom in with the "+" key on the keypad and zoom out with "-" but you have to get keyboard focus on the right control for that. Usually clicking anywhere in the graphical view (for example on the part) before you hit "+" works.

If I remember right the minimum temp is 170C (or 175C?). If it dips below the minimum temp the extruder stops rotating and the print basically fails. So I recommend at least 5C above the minimum temp. There is a gcode that will disable this feature but it's possible that the printer will halt anyway - not sure. I've certainly printed at 190C and I think I printed at 180C once also.

Well do you know much about electricity? Do you have an ohm meter? If not do you have a friend that understands how to test wires and simple circuits and owns an ohm meter? What happens when you go into the menu on your UM2 and look at the temperature of the second head? What temp does it read? What happens when you try to set it to a higher temperature?

Read in the instructions the part about updating the firmware. The machine doesn't auto detect - you have to install the firmware that expects the second head.

It looks like you are simply trying to print too fast. Is this in spiralize mode maybe? Spiralize mode is bizarre and has special issues which I will explain if you used that. Basically you are printing too fast I think where the pressure is building up too much and occasionally plastic squirts out the side of where it was supposed to print. Setting flow to > 100% can also cause this. I would go into cura and display ALL speed settigns including infill and set them all to 30mm/sec just to see if that helps. or in the tune menu while printing cut the speed down to 25% for a few layers to see if that improves the quality. Is it possible that Cura though you had a 0.8mm nozzle even though you used a 0.4? That would also explain why the pressure was so high. Lowering temp can also help (more viscous so less likely to spurt out sideways) but doesn't solve the underlying problem of too much pressure in the nozzle.

A photo of your print would help. If the movement is small (an extra 0.1mm) then it's almost certainly z screw, z nut, z bearings, or z rods. If the movement is > 1mm then it's almost certainly your stepper driver is overheating. There is discussion about this on the forum somewhere. UM released a solution to lower the current to the z driver only. Another solution is to remove the bottom cover and tilt your printer and put a fan blowing under there. At least to test to see if this is your issue. Maintenance -> Advanced -> Motion settings -> Current Z Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. If you don't have control over current in the gui reply back here. You can do it through gcodes.

The teflon won't exactly melt. It will slowly degrade over many days. At some point it's too soft and under compression (normal use) it will squeeze the filament where it enters the hot block (at the base of the teflon). Ultimaker's newer teflon aka TFN should be fine up to 255C for long term. 3dsolex (and in usa I sell their products at thegr5store.com) makes an even higher temp teflon which they call TFN also but it's a newer, higher temp product. I wouldn't worry about it until you start getting underextrusion. At that point you can remove the nozzle and drill out the teflon with a 3mm drill (to get you a few more days) and order a new one. Nylon is probably your best bet. I strongly recommend Taulman bridge over other types of nylons. Nylon is quite difficult to work with but in this case (your key fob) I think Nylon is your best bet. You need to keep it VERY dry. It will get "ruined" in just a few hours or so in normal humidity air. But it's easy to dry the nylon out again. Google about people who use a light bulb and a plastic box to keep their nylon in. Ultimaker nylon is also excellent. That nylon can be left out for a whole day before it absorbs too much water. You know your Nylon is "bad" because you can hear the water boiling and sizzling/popping as you print and the print looks like snow (thousands of tiny bubbles).

Corrected my reply, thanks.

Photo please. I haven't heard about this issue yet on the forums so you can be the first.

Here is the image of the display:

I have no idea why that would happen. That particular error has never happened to me. However I do suggest you print the version of the eiffel tower that is in 3 pieces. That is what I did. They glue together nicely and once it got dropped and I only had to reprint the top third (which is also the fastest to print - only 18 hours for me. I have had problems with the USB stick the UM supplies where the print stopped part way through and when I checked the file on the USB was corrupt. I started testing the gcode file on the USB everytime I wrote a gcode file to it and I *STILL* got corrupted files later that had been fine. Eventually I changed USB drives and things have been fine since. But I got a different error than you got. But still - check the gcode file - compare it to the version on your hard drive (you did save it, right? If not - that's a good habit).

It could be a GUI bug not showing infill but more likely it's not going to print any infill. Could you show a photo please? There are 100 possible reasons and a photo will eliminate most of them. Did you check xray view mode for any red areas?

Well first of all I strongly recommend staying at 24% or less infill. PLA is amazingly strong. I'm not sure that 40% is any stronger than 24%. Usually 24% is enough. Cura used to change the infill pattern when you went above 25%. I'm not sure that it still does but the pattern changed to where it onlyl did diagonal lines in one direction and then the next layer was the other direction. This ended up being heavily underextruded because layers would be printed in the air every time. So I would change that first. The next thing I would change is to make the infill speeds the same as the outer shell speeds. Which printer is this? um2? um3? other? Cura 2.X tends to make the infill speeds too fast and you get weak, underextruded infill. Also when it switches from a slow print speed (low head pressure) to a high infill speed (high pressure) it takes a little while to build the pressure back up and meanwhile you get underextrusion. That could be why you get underextrusion in only the start of an infill section. If those 2 things don't help I would just slow it down. Print the top layers at half the speed you are printing now. I would also do tests. I would create a cad version of the above model that only takes 15 minutes to print - just print one small section - maybe 2cm by 2cm and only maybe 1cm tall (for a good test you want to get at least 1cm above the hot glass to mimic the cooler temperatures found farther from the glass surface - and maybe also lower bed temp by 10C just for this test).

It's better to post the images right in your post so people don't have to do extra clicking. I feel especially sorry for people who browse with their phones. Also other people may have the same issue and I'm wondering if you will keep your photos on devestechnet as long as ultimaker will host the photos. I think this image sums it up best

source code is here. It has an open source license. If you sell or give away Marlin (even if you modify it) then you must also publish or supply the source code. If you use it only for yourself you don't have to publish it. Here are my instructions for accessing and compiling it. How to build ultimaker2 marlin on windows (most steps are unneccessary for most people - read it all through before you start or you may waste a lot of time making the test version and never use it) Get the source code from github and put somewhere on your hard drive. I'm not going to give you a tutorial on github - there's a lot to github features alone - you can simply download the zip but if you plan to edit it's best to install git and clone the project. If you want to submit bug fixes you absolutely have to create your own github account and create a fork, make changes, test changes, push changes to github and then send a pull request. Ultimaker2 source is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin Ultimaker2 plus is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware tinkermarlin - a variant which is better is here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin First know that the IDE is code::blocks. We need SDL 1.2 and arduino IDE and mingW compiler. Start with mingw compiler: Install arduino compiler from here - version 1.6.10 works but newer versions should be fine - put it into a path with no spaces (not program files which has a space): https://www.arduino.cc/en/main/software mingw gcc get here: https://sourceforge.net/projects/mingw/files/ Near the top is a setup.exe file. After it installs it launches the installation manager - at this point nothing useful is installed. Next mark packages mingw32-base and mingw32-gcc-g++ (c++ compiler) to be installed and then menu item "installation" "update catalogue". Wait for this to finish. sdl get here: https://www.libsdl.org/download-1.2.php then get the win32 version near the bottom mingw32 version of sdl - this gets us SDL.h and sdl.dll from the gzip file copy the bin\sdl.dll file into c:\mingw\bin\ and lib\* to c:\mingw\lib\* and \include\SDL folder to c:\mingw\include\ such that there are many .h files named SDL*.h in c:\mingw\include\SDL\ optionally copy SDL.dll to c:\windows so it can be found more easily. If there is already an SDL.dll there don't overwrite it - yikes. codeblocks - you only need codeblocks if you want to create a simulation but you should definitely do this - it allows you to break on a line of code and test so many things! But if you write perfect code everytime then skip codeblocks. http://codeblocks.org I recommend installing this last or at least after mingw or restart it after installing mingw. After codeblocks is installed After launching codeblocks I think it asked me for a project file what was in the source tree here: .....\MarlinSimulator\UltiLCD2_Sim.cbp In code::blocks menu click "build" "build". You should get no errors in bottom "build messages" window. Click menu "debug" "start/continue" and it should pop up the simulator and boot. Simulator shows screen and position of x,y,z axis graphically and more. Before starting your program you can add a breakpoint in codeblocks on a particular line of code - right click on the number to the left of your line of code and add a breakpoint. Then click the play button called "debug" (versus the play button titled "run"). When the simulator gets to that line it wall pause and you can examine variables (right click and add to watch). building the hex files: you need to launch the mingw64 shell - it looks like a dos window but better. I don't know how to launch that but it came for free with my installation of git gui (from the git website). You build like this - get to the marlin folder and do: ./package.sh But it will fail the first time. You need to set a few things up. edit this package.sh file and add this line below the other arduino_path definitions: ARDUINO_PATH=c:/Arduino (or change to wherever you installed arduino ide - again - no spaces in path allowed!). You should probably double check that this file is in this exact path: c:/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-gcc.exe If not, then you probably need to modify AVR_TOOLS_PATH in marlin/Makefile. I didn't have to modify that. You don't have to do anything with ARDUINO_VERSION unless you are using a version before 1.0.0 in which case you should probably get a newer arduino ide anyway. Also I had to redefine MAKE by adding the following line in package.sh - this is where mingw32 installed for me (/c/ is the equivalent of c:\) MAKE=/c/MinGW/bin/mingw32-make

You said you are printing in ABS. Are those supports in ABS also? I just prefer to create my own supports in CAD for this kind of thing. Just build the supports right into the STL file for CURA and turn off cura supports. That way the supports can be firmly attached to the print bed and get smaller as they get up to their function location.