gr5

If your printer is connected to a network that has access to the internet then you can just update it from the menu system already built into the printer. Or do you want the source code? That is available also.

It's a cad issue. You need to remove those internal surfaces. What cad software are you using?

Cura by default prints the infill a bit too fast. I believe the idea is they assume you only care about infill for holding up the top surfaces and don't care about strength. If you care about strength just slow down the infill speeds. Click on the gear and enable all the speeds. Set them all to the same speed (the slower speed). Well, leave the bottom or initial layer speed the same but fix all the infill and inner shell speeds the same as the outer shell speed.

Some other slicers do this. I think someone said maybe stratasys slicer does this. It should actually be more hourglass shaped where it is strong at the base and then gets thinner with height and then widens only at the last few mm. Personally I design most of my supports myself in cad. There are some great programs out there that do better support than cura and then saves it as an STL. Consider this one: meshmixer supports: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/28/meshmixer-2-0-best-newcomer-in-a-supporting-role/ pay particular attention to how to rotate your part in the "annoyances & limitations" section and also note that there is a small error where he set layer height to "0.5" mm and it should be the layer height you print at e.g. .2 or .1mm.

Tighten them MUCH harder. If you use a hex driver (like a screwdriver) you should be afraid the tool will break. It should twist slightly. If you use an L shaped tool your fingers should hurt for a few minutes after. REALLY TIGHT. You probably only need to get the 2 on the short belts of the slipping axis - not all 11 pulleys. I can't tell which axis is slipping because you already removed the part from the printer. There's a very small possibility that your stepper drivers overheat and shut off for a half second occasionally also. But I strongly doubt that. You would likely have issues with the Z axis long before X or Y. This is 98% odds that it's a pulley set-screw.

To save time printing large models you should strongly consider larger nozzles. Ultimaker is likely coming out with a 0.8mm nozzle soon (it's in cura anyway) and 3dsolex sells .8mm nozzles and 1mm nozzles and maybe larger. Look into the "hardcore" at 3dsolex. You can print .6mm thick layers with a .8mm nozzle. It won't look as pretty (kind of like a stack of pancakes).

ABS shrinks? Not much. Is it warping off the bed? If so watch this video and you should get your parts to "stick like hell" to the glass:

Maybe? I don't know. I don't think so but maybe.

What you describe by the way sounds like pva. You soak it in water for 10 hours and it gets very very soft. And you can just pull it apart like snot.

This is very strange. Maybe you got a bad batch? Maybe the "nylon" is actually pva? But if it was it would be completely gone after a day or two. I have only done I think one nylon/pva print and it came out amazing. I had to soak it a long time - I think 12 hours. It's still in great shape now - about 6 months later. I have done many nylon prints without pva. But I was so impressed with the nylon/pva combo. More than pla/pva combination. Maybe soaking for more than 20 hours is a problem? Maybe you got a bad batch of nylon? You can certainly dry it quickly - it takes just a few hours in the oven - I forget temp - but around 90C should be good. Maybe you have some kind of acid or something reactive in the water? Oh I just realized - one nylon part I printed - it's in a bathroom - in the shower. There have been easily 50 showers with water splashing on the nylon part each time. It's still as good as new.

Well if you don't want to take it apart then get a needle that fits into the opening - for example a hypodermic needle or an acupuncture needle that is around .35mm in diameter. Do the cold pull where you heat nozzle to about 150C (don't let PVA stay above 120C for more than a few minutes at a time - if you leave it at 200C for 10 minutes it will bake into a tight clog). Anyway heat it up and try to get the needle through the hole from below. If you can do that then stick some filament in from above. PVA will work. Nylon is better. Then cool the head to 90C while pushing down from above on the filament and pushing up with the needle. As it gets below about 110C you can remove the needle or just leave it in there. When it is at 90C lift up with about 5kg of force. If it doesn't come out, heat to 95C and try again. Then try again at 105C, 110C, 115C until it finally comes out. It should be in the shape of the tip of the nozzle. Check to see if it's fixed and if not repeat.

Nylon and ABS are a whole level harder to work with than PLA. It took me about 100 prints to feel really comfortable with PLA and then another 100 to feel comfortable with ABS. I'm still not comfortable with Nylon. I have printed nylon with pva support and that works very well. Even better than pla with pva support. I soaked the part for about 24 hours and it did not affect the nylon in a bad way at all. I did not dry the nylon in an oven or anything. Besides it only takes a day or so to reabsorb water from the air. I have no idea what you mean about the nylon getting "soft and weak". Was it in heavy usage? Did you use it for a gear or something? Nylon is much more flexible than PLA or ABS. If you use it to make say a link in a chain that is a good thing as it distributes the forces better and makes it as strong as hell. Much stronger than a chain link made with PLA or ABS. That is not so good for say a quadcopter arm or a gear. Or in uses where it gets above 90C due to friction (even if only the thin skin surface of the part gets to 90C it's a problem eventually). PLA should be stronger than ABS for most cases (it's complicated). The main problem with PLA is not strength but that it can't handle > 50C very well. If you need higher temp but want a material almost as easy to print as PLA then go with nGen. If you want something you can drive a truck over, then nylon is best. It is soft so it will just flex and return to normal after. No damage done. You can drop nylon parts off a tall building and they probably won't get damaged when they hit rock. Not so true with ABS or PLA. For warping of ABS I can definitely help you there but I recommend staying away from ABS. Fixing the warping issue is easy. Making it as strong as PLA is hard. Very tricky. In fact you will have to do some destructive testing until you know that your ABS is bonding properly. There's no other way to tell. With PLA it always bonds properly.

The stl files from XYZDesignPro are here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/door-and-hinges-for-ultimaker-3-or-ultimaker-3-extended

Instead of putting the STL files on drop box please put them on youmagine as dropbox is probably only temporary and you may be tempted to delete the STL out of your dropbox account within the next 10 or 20 years. People (not many but still) 10 years from now will still be interested in this.

Oh! yes - I forgot about that effect. Listen to @geert_2. Just print two of these parts at the same time. Try to space them left-right such that when the tower of the left one is being printed the right one is right under the fan. With 3 towers you will do even better. It could also be partly the speed thing. When it switches to printing faster (higher pressure in nozzle) to slower you get a bit of overextrusion for a few seconds. But I like the other answer better that geert_2 suggests.

> read somewhere that the way you use everlast cores is: if >I want to print something with 0.4,you use 0.6 core so that the filament doesn't stick. That's a new one for me. I haven't heard that and as far as I know if you want .4mm line widths you should use .4mm nozzle regardless whether it's made of steel, ruby, sapphire, or brass. Having said that, Ultimaker found that when they measured many of their nozzles (or maybe they were 3rd party nozzles) and discovered that on average they were a bit smaller - maybe 3.9mm and they also concluded that it's better to print a little smaller than the nozzle width than larger. So to be safe, and especially for new people, and also to reduce chances of underextrusion, Cura now defaults to .35mm line width for a .4mm nozzle. Personally I use high quality nozzles that really are .4mm and so I just set the line width to the nozzle size. But this has nothing to do with ruby versus brass.

This is more common on UM3 but has never happened to me on UM2. I would start maybe with this thing: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cracked-slide-block-cap Maybe that can hold the rods in better for you. Also maybe you got oil or grease where they connect to the block. Maybe remove the rods, clean with wd40 and wipe very clean and dry. These don't need much oil - almost zero. The thinner rods go through the head with ball bearings. So you don't want much oil on these. The larger diameter rods in the gantry do need oil.

Move bed closer to nozzle.

There are many ways to clean this. The hot/cold pulls method I hear works best but I haven't had to unclog a UM3 nozzle yet (just um2 nozzles so far). Also consider contacting your reseller as most of them have probably dealt with this. As a last resort you can take it apart. Cores are delicate and it's TRIVIAL to destroy it if you try to take it apart. Just loosening the first screw will often destroy it. I have taken many cores apart so that is very easy for me -- so if I couldn't get hot/cold pulls to work I would take it all apart and soak the nozzle in water for 24 hours. arrgg!! I forgot - I can't post this video because it has a "8" followed by a "D" in the url and this forum can't handle that. Search youtube instead for "um3 ultimaker 3 core disassembly". That explains in detail how not to destroy your core yet still take it apart. But again - last resort - because once you take it apart you won't be able to get reseller support for that core and I'm pretty sure it violates the core's warranty.

edit: in retrospect my answer below was not applicable - geert_2 answer is much better. Try making the base twice as thick (try scaling it in cura 2X but in Z only - uncheck the lock). This will tell you if something is wrong with the hardware or the slicer. I think something is wrong with your z screw in that it stops moving for several layers. It gets stuck. I think it's just a coincidence that it happens to happen at the top of the wider cylinder. If I'm right then try cleaning the z screw. With power off push the bed way down. Clean the grease and dirt out of the z screw. Consider using WD-40 (for cleaning only! not for lubrant so remove it all after). And then lubricate with the tiniest amount of grease. In fact if you only clean a few inches of the z screw then you don't need to add any grease.

I hope someone else answers this but an alternative is to "sink" the object below the glass such that cura cuts off the bottom 1mm or so. Would that be a problem for your part? Cutting the bottom flat? Or do you need it angled like that?

The bottom left corner is a different issue. That's play also known as backlash. On UMO the most common is loose belts. If you push the head to a corner and pluck the long belts they should vibrate at 100 to 200Hz. You can use an oscillator app on your phone to compare pitch. The short belts are easier to tighten - loosen 4 screws to X or Y stepper, push down hard on the stepper (1kg force is good) and re-tighten. However the underextrusion is the more serious problem. Did you mess with "flow" in cura? There are just so many things that can cause underextrusion. I would start by measuring the pushing strength of your feeder. Put a short piece of filament (maybe 1/2 meter?) into the feeder and only part way into the bowden. Turn the feeder by hand or electrically and see how much weight you can lift. The UMO can lift about 5kg but if your issue is with the feeder than yours is only lifting about 1kg. If it's the feeder then inspect the knurled wheel carefully. Check the spring, make sure it is tight. If your feeder can pull > 3kg then concentrate on the hot end. You probably need a new white teflon part or maybe a new nozzle or maybe you can clean out your existing nozzle. Read how to do a "cold pull" but more likely if it's the nozzle it would be just gunk that has burned to a black coating on the inside of the tip of the nozzle.

ICE nozzles have a coating on them. When you receive one it's best to heat it to 200C for 2 hours to let the coating harden. But not mandatory. If you heat to 280C the nozzle still works but the coating is ruined. ICE keeps filament from sticking to the nozzle. It's a minor thing but sometimes filament occasionally gets on the nozzle and then over an hour it can turn black and then sometimes it falls off into your print and leaves a black spot. Usually it's not a problem but with ICE nozzles it's never a problem. ICE is not protection against abrasive filaments. Everlast is ruby or sapphire and needed for abrasive filaments like carbon fill (which is a filament I don't recommend). You can actually get both Everlast *and* ICE coating.

Also I would expect the 12V fan to almost work with 5V. If you spin it manually while on does it spin then?

UM2 or UM3? Please update your printer into your profile so it shows up on every post. I'm pretty sure the UM2 fan is 5V. Current is not as much critical but lower is better for the printer.