gr5

Well that error happens when there is a short or open (open in this case) between the temp sensor mounted on the bed and the controller board. 98% likely the problem is right where the cables meet the bed. You might even be able to see the loose wire looking down from above at the back of the bed where the cable attaches. There are 4 wires. You only need to pay attention to the thinner 2 wires. Give a gentle tug to see if they are in there. They might just need reinserting and tightening down with jeweler screwdriver. Or it could be that the connector is not connected to the circuit board anymore (the circuit board is hidden inside the bed and all is much more obvious if you remove the 3 leveling screws and take it all apart. Sometimes one needs to reheat the solder under that connector block. It could also be anywhere along the wire but usually wires fail at either end. Not in the middle.

You can use carl _at_ 3dsolex.com He is also here on the forums: @swordriff

This is extremely common. Please look at it in xray mode to see if there is any red. Also look at it in layer view to see if it will print anything. Probably not. The two most common problems are: 1) part is not manifold (part is not a solid). If this is true xray view will show red spots. 2) walls are too think. cura will not slice a wall thinner than the "line width" parameter.

The fans going on and then off is normal. The logo should stay on for a long time. Maybe a minute or two. If after 5 minutes you still just see the log then contact support. There is a blue "support" button below and to the right of the last post in every topic.

I'm sorry your message got burried for a day in among thousands of spams. You are now an approved poster and next time it will show up immediately.

There is a white lever on the feeder. If you squeeze that hard you can just slide filament in and out. So slide out the old and slide in the new. Slide in the new hard enough to make sure you see some filament coming out of the nozzle faster than before you slid it in. I recommend cutting the tip to a point of the new filament first.

If the rear fan doesn't spin you do get blocks mid-print or at the start of a newer print after things have cooled down. The problem is almost always in the wiring just inside or above the print head. Remove the plastic netting (slide it up or cut the heatshrink off the end if necessary and slide it up) until you find the 3 white fan connectors. The two that are connected together with a short loop are for the side fans. The other one is the rear fan. Try jiggling that connector while the nozzle is at 70C (fan comes on around 50C). Consider just cutting those connectors off (with power off) and soldering the wires directly.

It could also be too many retractions. A photo of your part would help to diagnose if this is likely the problem.

Could you show a photo please? It sounds like underextrusion. There are many causes. Having a large print is not a cause. It's common for extrusion to get worse as you get higher though. In particular I'd like to know your speed, layer height, print temp (I know you said 220-240) and nozzle diameter. The most common problem is printing too fast/thick for a given temp/nozzle.

It looks like it might not be slicing it correctly. Probably an error in the cad model. Look at it in xray view. If you see anything in the color red that is a problem. If there is no red then try removing "fix horrible A". Somewhere deep in advanced menus.

Don't be scared. This printer is TOUGH!

I don't know the answer to your questions but I do know that for some materials you want to print the first layer extra hot. There are lots of tradeoffs on temperature. If you print hotter the bottom layer will stick better. I suspect this is the purpose of the initial temp. If temperature is cooler the material is thicker like mortar and stays better where the nozzle puts it. If temp is hotter it flows more like honey and you get droopy errors and stringing and leakage. If you print hotter you can print faster. For ABS if you don't print hot enough you get bad layer adhesion from one layer to the next. If you print too hot you get clogs with ABS. Also with dual head printers while one nozzle is printing the other cools down so you have these other temperature settings - something like "idle" temp and seconds before switching to start heating up the idle nozzle.

I don't ship to brazil sorry but I don't sell filament or printers either. So the bed? The bed went to 100C? That's the correct temperature for ABS. Maybe you told the UM2 you had ABS? Or maybe Cura tried to set it to 100C. Well when you start the print and it is heating up the bed (only heats the bed initially) then go immediately to TUNE menu and see what the goal temperature is. You can fix it there. But even better in Materials menu tell it that you currently have PLA in your machine.

The basic problem is that the part is wobbling while it's trying to print it. Because it's so thin. Can you instead print it flat on the print bed? With the rivets facing up? There is a rotate feature in cura - click on the part and choose the rotate icon and rotate it 90 degrees. I don't know why it printed better before. Maybe if you slowed it WAY down to say 10mm/sec it won't wobble but it will look so much better if printed flat. Also you won't need brim if you print it flat.

When you increase the flow it increases the extruder only. Not x,y,z. So if the move was from x,y,z,e (0,0,0,0) to (10,0,0,10) and flow is 200% then the x axis moves 10mm and the E axis moves 20mm. But when I capitalized "FOR ALL MOVES" that was because if you are doing a retraction it also doubles the distance of the retraction. Retractions tend to be slow. So making retractions twice as slow is very noticable on your total print time. Especially if you have many of them. When you increase the feedrate or speed it takes the requested speed in the gcodes and increases that value. So if the feedrate in the gcodes was 50mm/sec and feedrate is 200% then the new REQUESTED feedrate is now 100mm/sec. The feedrate is the speed of all the axes combined. So if only X is moving then that's the speed of X axis. If only E is moving then that's the speed of E axis. If many axes are moving it's the overall combined 4 dimensional speed (square each axis, add it up, take square root - also known as pythagoris theorem). However in addition to requested speed Marlin also has a MAX speed for each axis. You are printing VERY fast in the E axis so if you happen to be close to the max speed for E and then you request 200% flow that also implies the E axis needs to go twice as fast. But if E axis is already at max speed then the printer will then slow down the other 3 axes to produce twice as much flow on as with 100% flow. In other words if your normal print at 100% flow happens to have the E axis moving at 10mm/sec and 10mm/sec happens to be the limit of the E axis (max speed in marlin) then if you increase the flow to 200% the other 3 axis will have to slow down because the E axis is already at it's limit. I could be wrong about your E axis already at the limiting speed.

Oh and if you want the best feeder then get the bondtech feeder.

OH SORRY! This got lost among over 10,000 spams. The forum gets a lot lately. I'm very cheap so I would print the iroberti feeder and add the medusa upgrade. If you already have the olsson block then I wouldn't upgrade that end. If not then I would definitely get the olsson block or the block v3. Stay away from all metal hot ends. They don't do well with PLA.

You can reduce the cura supports by quite a bit by setting the support angle such that it only supports the center 3cm or so of the arc. I forget if you need to set it to 80 or 10 to reduce support to the "almost level" areas.

There is no such thing as a reliable 3d printer whether you spend $300, $3000, or $300K. I mean it takes some learning and things can go wrong. But the UM3 is much better than most in it's price range. It's more like owning a cnc milling machine than owning a 2D printer as far as "plug and play". heater error is worrying. It may be a bad core. The easy thing to try is to mark that core as "bad" and try the other AA core instead. Of course you will now have to recalibrate this new combination of cores. If you are handy and have a multimeter I would ohm out the heater on the core when it's not installed. It should be almost exactly 23 ohms. If you find it is instead closer to say 30 ohms then there is probably a bad connection or a bad heater. I would also try gently tugging on those wires where they connect to the PCB to see if they are loose and to see if the resistance changes when you do that. Clogging can happen. What material were you printing that clogged? ABS clogs quite easily. Or if you have a lot of dust on the filament the dust can travel slowly with the filament through the tube and into the nozzle where it clogs. If you have a dusty environment you might want to build a filter out of a kleenex and some oil and some string that cleans the filament as it enters the feeder. You should read about "cold pulls for um3" to get that nozzle unclogged. If it's an ABS then things may be tricky. If you destroy it then this might be a good time to trade it in and upgrade to a hardcore which can take multiple nozzle sizes (full disclosure - I sell those so I'm biased).

By the way you can just tell the printer that there is pva on the second extruder but tell cura that you loaded pva and you can slice and print just fine through that BB core that thinks it's an AA core. I would doulbe check the nozzle though - if you remove the rubber ring around the nozzle and look with a loupe or reading glasses you should see a tiny "AA 0.4" or "BB 0.4" on the nozzle itself. The only difference mechanically between the 2 is the nozzle. The other differences is that the eeprom is programmed as either AA or BB and the white marking of course.

Almost certainly the machine is fine but the core is programmed wrong. I'd send just the BB core back to where you bought it.

Well if you don't want to figure out how to follow that meshmixer tutorial and if the guy who is in charge of the printer refuses to print without support then I suggest you just let cura print the support. Cura will do an okay job of supports automatically.

I don't think it can print the top two legs. That looks worse. They are just hanging over nothing.

You might not consider it a firmware problem but I do. I just took it out. If you read carefully my post, you should realize: you only get the error if the heater can't keep up even at full power. So usually the fix is to get a more powerful heater. Although often the error is caused because the heater block is touching the fan shroud somewhere. But your heater is 160 Watts? So I don't know what is going on.

He's crazy busy but order the non EHT - it goes well above 280C already - and then before you order also ask for a price for a replacement "delicate steel part" that goes inside the core. Tell him you also will be ordering a hardcore kit.