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The um3 has 2 ip addresses. One for wired. And one for wireless. I assume you mean the wired one?

Do you have the UM3? Or are you doing this with an UM2? The PVA and Nylon that UM sells are different from other brands as far as I can tell and they work very well together. Even better than PVA and PLA. I strongly recommend you start with UM brand and use the defaults in Cura. Default temperatures. Default horizontal expansion. But it's okay to print slower than the defaults. I found they worked very well together. If you are having trouble with something sticking to the bed it's usually because the nozzle is too high above the glass. You can experiment while it's printing the bottom layer by simply pushing up on the glass and if it starts sticking better then just turn the 3 screws an equal amount to move the glass closer to the nozzle.

Oh - one more thing - cura has some "fix horrible" settings - if you play with those you might be able to get it to print the STL as is. Of course check in layer view to see what those are doing. This fix horrible is not as fancy as what netfabb and other services can do for you.

Well there is this great guide on fixing your sketchup models to be 3d printable: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ He may be only 12 but he's come so far - with some encouragement maybe he'll fix the model himself. Also there are some services that will repair a mesh. I keep losing track of them as they come and go. I think this netfabb service might be good - never tried it - others said it's great: https://service.netfabb.com/login.php I think it's going to want your facebook and then it might start sending you emails about netfabb. That's the price to pay for free services I suppose.

@rhoogenboom - the trick is to usually to squish the PVA more into the glass. I'm thinking you didn't calibrate your Z offset properly between the nozzles and your pva nozzle is higher above the glass when printing than the other nozzle.

Movement won't be a serious issue I don't think as you can see in this (real) video made by Joris who I know personally and swears it's real: http://gizmodo.com/watch-what-happens-when-you-a-ship-a-3d-printer-while-i-1766124535 However salty air is just HORRIBLE on so many things. The brass parts will be okay but any iron or steel and probably much of the electronics will rust away to nothing. I would definitely save my money and get a used UMO or UM2 but if you are rich go for the UM3. Also you might need an air tight dry locker for the filament. I think pla will probably be okay in the humidity but not nylon and not pva. UM says keep pva at 50% or dryer but even 50% is probably too much for pva. And without pva the UM3 is not so useful.

I think you are getting a pretty good understanding but a few minor points. Not everything is caused by shrinkage. The issue where it "warps inward" a few layers above the glass is something else. The filament is like snot as it comes out of the nozzle and it cools in milliseconds a bit and shrinks but it is still liquid at this point but it's like a stretched, liquid rubber band. As it is layed down there is tension on this liquid rubber band which when going around a corner pulls inward. *That* is what causes the "warps inward" issue that is a few mm *above* the bed. I suppose it's somewhat related to shrinkage but not in the normal way. Note that very flexible materials like ninjaflex and taulman bridge nylon do not need to be printed above their "softening temp" because they are *already* flexible even at room temperature. For those materials you only need the bed hot enough such that the bottom layer doesn't harden up before it has a chance to make very good contact with the bed. Also be aware that for almost every material other than PLA you also have to worry about layer adhesion or weak layer bonding. When laying down ABS on a solid layer below that has cooled too much the new layer doesn't melt the layer below enough for a good bond. The part seems completely fine until you put some serious stress on it and it breaks along the layer lines. To deal with this you want less fan with ABS (and nylon etc) and enclosing the printer helps also.

@OmegaCO - Listen to cloakfiend. He is the world expert on using acetone to smooth PLA as far as I can tell. He has one of the longest topics in this form and it's on this subject. He has videos. He has many pictures. His technique keeps changing and getting better. This is his specialty. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10412-acetone-finishing-on-pla

It's called "stringing". I find it is worse with white filament (all brands). One fix is to reduce the pressure in the nozzle by lowering the speed. A lot. Try 20mm/sec as your minimum speed. Also lower temperature. Try 190C on the um2 (but only if printing very slow). Lower on the um3. Also check all the retraction settings. If the gap is small sometimes it doesn't retract but you can change the settings so it always retracts. But mostly I recommend trying a different color.

>the glass plates have some tolerances, and are certainly not always the same. Your instructions will not work for everyone. Hmm. Maybe. My sample size is smaller than the one you have access to. But you haven't convinced me yet. I'm thinking the process of tempering glass makes the center thicker. I could be wrong but if I'm right then it explains a lot of tower failures. How many glass plates have you checked? It's pretty easy - just a few on a flat table and measure with a straight edge (like a metal ruler). Actually you don't need a straight edge - you just need a flat table. My plates all have lifted corners and I can kind of rock the glass if I push down on a corner. I find the center is higher and all the sides are lower. Both for a 3 year old UM2 plate and a 6 month old UM3 plate. And my UM2 ext. And my UMO HBK. So that's only 4 of 4. But a few other people I talked to *seemed* to have the same issue. Not 100% sure. One said his right rear corner was 2mm low. That doesn't seem possible. If you assume the center is higher (like a sphere surface or a gentle hill) and imagine in your mind what that would look like if you leveled at the front 2 corners and the back center it would basically tilt it back so that rear edge is lower. And the center (where one prints the most) is a bit higher (for excellent adhesion on smallish prints). I found if I flipped the glass over it was the same thing. Higher in the center. Keep in mind we are only talking about .1mm to .3mm for my glass plates. It's pretty minor except in the rear corners. And it doesn't take much force at all to make the glass level (put a business card under each of the 4 corners and push down in center with about 1/2 kg of force. So it's easy for the aluminum bed to be a greater cause of non-flatness than the glass.

>Would love to use ABS with a soluble material... PLA is quite limiting when 3d printing mechanical parts. PLA has a bad reputation as being weaker than ABS. It's just not true anymore. Most of the modern PLA brands such as Ultimaker brand and in particular PLA/PHA blends are just as strong as ABS. I've tested materials in bend tests (think snapping a pencil) and pull tests and I've pored over datasheets. Modern PLA and ABS are virtually identical in their strength and flexibility. The major caveat is that often ABS can have bad layer bonding and can be much weaker than PLA along layers. So really ABS should be the material with the bad reputation. Another mechanical difference comes with drilling or machining PLA versus ABS. Because the process of machining heats PLA above it's softening temp so easily it makes it turn into a gummy gunk when you try to dremel it or drill it.

First of all manual leveling works great. Just as well as with UM2. It's the same process. But if you choose to enable auto leveling I'm 90% sure it will work with blue tape. It works by pressing the nozzle into the bed until it stops detecting a change in the sensor. The sensor is in the base of the print head (next to the nozzles) - I think it might be inductive. Anyway as long as you put tape everywhere on the bed (or at least where you will be printing and where it will be autoleveling) then I don't see why it wouldn't work fine. Also you should learn how to take full advantage of a heated glass bed. It's just amazing when you learn all the tricks. Much nicer than tape for a few reasons: 1) Sticks much more strongly than tape if you do it right. 2) Bottom surface as "as smooth as glass" instead of as smooth as tape 3) If you let the glass cool to room temperature the part tends to pop off. 4) You don't have to worry about damaging the tape when you take the part off and then having to re-apply the tape. More details about blue tape tricks and glass tricks here:

Move your part closer to the front of the machine and move your tower centered left/right and closer to the center of the plate. The glass is higher here such that the plastic gets squished into the glass better and that way the tower should be strong enough to lift the printer by.

@SandervG - I think the installer could have an option that "removes all old profiles". Many people won't want this but when you are trying to do a complete uninstall/install then people could check this option.

I have found when upgrading cura the profiles indeed tend to move from the old version. Uninstalling doesn't seem to make any difference. The files are stored in .../appdata/local/cura. Completely blowing away that folder and then restarting cura initializes all the profiles to defaults again.

To fix the problems at the top of your print you need some fan. Just a tiny bit. The slowest where it reliably rotates is good. Around 30% on UM2 or 3% on UM3. If you do too much fan the layers won't bond well (not a problem with PLA). Bad layer bonding is not obvious until you break the part. It will break along layer lines. But if you enclose the machine and set the fan to minimum you should be fine. The bottom corner curling/lifting/warping is a completely different unrelated issue. It is caused by upper layers cooling and pulling inward which rotates the corners up with tremendous force. Keeping the bed at 105C helps because being above the glass temp means the ABS is more flexible and can warp the tiniest bit and yet still stick to the glass. This is MUCH preferred over the corners lifting off the glass. Another trick is to make the filament stick like hell. ABS glue, rounded corners, brim, squishing the filament into the glass are all good ways to assure it WILL NOT COME OFF the glass. 260C is dangerously hot. Sometimes ABS will get all clogged in the nozzle and you have to take it apart. You don't want ABS at above 240C for more than a minute or so. Higher temps are worse (more likely to clog) but if you haven't had any clogs I guess your temp is fine. So once the nozzle is up to temp keep things moving/printing. To really get your part to stick like hell to the glass I explain all the tricks in detail here:

@tomnagel - he used some kind of weird flexible pla that does deform. @Brannfjell - did you check that your 3rd fan is working? It's in the part of the head that swings open. You should hear it come on any time a nozzle gets above 60C.

>The Layer height is set to 0.2mm and initial layer height is set to 0.27mm I think Neotko meant you should adjust the height of your glass bed a tiny amount. The three screws that adjust the bed height are 0.5mm per full rotation. Try rotating all 3 of them CW 1/3 turn to move the bed down by 0.1666m. Even better, try turning them that much while it's printing the bottom layer and you should see instant results and learn from that and iterate. neotko is very smart and has done more prints maybe than anyone on the forum. He has several printers going all week long, all year long.

>Also replaced the temp sensor but the machine does not want to print below 65F. This is news to me. Tell me more please. Is the firmware on the printer complaining or is your filament just not sticking to the glass? I have a video (it's long but packed with tons of tips) on getting your prints to stick like hell to the glass. ABS or PLA or other:

The glass plates tend to have a little bit of a curvature where the very center is higher and then it's leveled near the 3 screws (front left, front right, rear center). This means the rear 2 corners are lower. Unfortunately this is where the prime tower usually goes (rear right corner). Moving the tower closer to the rear screw helps a lot! That way the bottom layer is squished more into the glass and it sticks better.

I'm not very familiar with this issue but other's have said this is a problem for certain filament colors and manufacturers. Have you tried a different color or brand filament? Is this white filament? Or Gray? I have the most trouble with white filament (all manufacturers). I think white filament has a high amount of talc in it - not sure.

I don't think cura 2.X supports this anymore. I recommend using pronterface for usb printing. I believe Cura is now just a slicer.

It's possible there is a trojan in Cura. But unlikely. Maybe wait a few days and if no reports of viruses click "restore quaranteed file".

Well first step would be to get the core out obviously. I'm not sure how to do that. The number 2 core is harder to get at the top area as it's more complicated. Maybe a very hot knife heated to 200C? But then you might damage the print head. Second step would be to ship the core back to reseller. I offer to buy broken cores from resellers as I've taken many cores apart but no one has taken me up on my offer. How to disassemble a core:

The UM3 takes "3mm" filament which actually means either 2.85 or 2.9mm nominal diameter filament. The UM3 prints any brand of PLA, ABS. It prints most filaments as long as they are "3mm". Notice I put that in quotes because it's actually a bit smaller than 3mm. The bed can just barely get up to 100C and the nozzle can get up to 280C no problem. So any filament that doesn't need hotter than those temperatures will be fine in the UM3.