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You have to use the "two equal" notation that nallath uses. The first = tells the parser where the setting name ends and the formula starts. The second = implies it will be a formula instead of a number as in =x/3

FYI - for a clean install you have to delete the appdata stuff also. Unfortunately. But the good news is you can just go wild and delete it all and restart cura and it just creates it again but properly. On windows go to: C:\Users\XXXX\AppData\Local\cura Where XXXX varies depending on your personal setup and login.

Ah. Okay. This is a better description of what is happening to you. I suggest you take some PVA and spread it on the glass. PVA sticks really well to PVA. There are 3 ways to put PVA on your glass that I approve of. All three are in that youtube video above. I demonstrate how I do it. Two of the methods require adding water to the PVA and diluting it. A 4th way is similar to the wood glue method but you use *used* PVA instead of wood glue. I prefer the wood glue over using ultimaker PVA because it's easier to see. I'm probably just confusing you. Watch the video.

@LesHall - I completely agree with @Meduza and I think you are missing my point. The heater in the UM2 is controlled by a thermostat algorithm. Like your house. If you set the thermostat in your house to 70F and the house is at 70F even though it is -30F outdoors then your furnace is good enough. Putting in a larger furnace isn't going to help as you are already achieving the goal temperature of 70F. Similar with your printer - if the printer is reaching your goal temperature then your heater has enough watts. If it isn't reaching the goal temperature then you are probably getting the "HEATER ERROR" error which halts your print (or you have an older version of the firmware from a few years ago). In which case, yes, update your heater. The wattage of all these heaters I have been talking about in posts above is the wattage for a 24V power supply. That's a side issue and not relevant. Waiting for the UM3 does not seem relevant since it only has a 25W heater in the cores that come with the UM3 (so far - who knows what the future holds).

No. Cura 2.4 works okay with any version of Marlin on UM2. I still prefer Cura 15.X for my UM2 and I use Cura 2.4 for my UM3. Although I did slice maybe 5 models with cura 2.X and maybe 2 with Cura 2.4. Cura 15.X is faster to launch, faster to slice and view, the keyboard shortcuts work better, the options are simpler. Cura 2.4 does have some very nice features but usually Cura 15.X is good enough.

It may be true that you are limited by the energy output from block to filament. However if the block is at a particular temperature, putting in a larger heating element and printing at the same temperature will make no difference. Note that the block v3 from 3dsolex has better heat transfer from block to nozzle and also from nozzle to filament. There is I think 40% more surface area between block and nozzle (more threads, chamfer, flat area). And the 0.8mm "race" nozzle has internal structure to get the filament warmed thoroughly everywhere.

In general a 0.6mm nozzle prints twice the volume of a .4 and a 0.8mm nozzle prints double again. But to achieve those speeds it's easiest to increase the layer height also. Around .2mm to .3mm layer height for .6mm nozzle and .3mm to .5mm for the .8mm nozzle. That makes for fast prints.

If you've never gotten "heater error" and if your temperature is able to stay close to the temperature you ask for then there is no need for a more powerful heater. It doesn't matter if it's 200W or 20W. If the head is at 210C while printing and that's the goal temp then it's irrelevant what nozzle size you have. Your heater is good enough.

Are you using "grid" support? Did you generate the support or did Cura? If you generate your own supports in cad make them 1/5 as wide at the base as they are tall such that you have a strong base. If Cura generated the support dont' use "lines". Instead us something like "grid" support. It is common for the print head to hit the support. Hard. Very hard. But the support should be able to stick. So the solution is usually to make it stick like hell to the glass. That's involved. Usually people just level the nozzle too far from the glass. I show my leveling procedure in the video but I recommend you watch the whole thing as it's packed with good info but if you just want to squish better there is an index near the begining so you can skip to that part.

Maybe the ruby nozzle diameter is a little smaller than your brass nozzles.

I wish there were more matte colors also! They hide the imperfections such as layer lines very well! But, um, what's out there? Some help here? I know woodfill and brassfill are pretty matte. Any other filaments though?

>Contact your reseller if your BB core identifies itself as AA. yes. This. But you can still use it - the printer forces you to claim you have PLA in that core but you can just do that and print anyway with a cura gcode file in the USB flash drive that was sliced for PVA. I've done it. As a test.

Good to know. I sometimes use nylon as a "cleaning filament". I don't know what those cleaning filaments are made of.

pronterface also shows you the endstop switches for x,y,z. while running pronterface query the switches then push on X limit switch and query again to see it change. Repeat for Z switch.

Some of the things I spoke about and other really useful stuff is in here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing

I did a print last night with PLA/PVA and no prime tower and it came out great. Cura beta 2.4.

Yeah I got that part and ignored it. I have seen these issues always on all FFF printers (I've used a dozen or so). I don't believe you didn't have these issues before. You maybe never noticed the vertical hole issue as that's always going to be there. Or maybe you printed another material like ABS. The other issue is probably because you had to relevel after you changed from your old bed to the new bed. And like I said - just fix leveling and that issue is gone -- for most parts -- unless they are too big and warp off the bed.

What kind of printer? I assume you don't have a dual heat? Please put your printer in your profile settings. Yeah this is a difficult print. The hood is clearly too thin in a spot. If you know cad you should thicken it. In fact I would separate this into several separate parts. The wheels should be printed on their sides separately. I rarely use support and just create my own supports in CAD as needed and split the part up as needed. I'm guessing the wheels are completely covered in support? That looks tough to remove. You could use a larger XY gap. Maybe. But then it might not do any support at all. I would have to see the original model. Most of the rest came out okay except the roof. If you just slow it down - set ALL printing speeds (not travel moves) to 25mm/sec and your quality will go up on the bodey. The roof needs some kind of support. It's just not designed for 3d printing. I would probably print that separate with custom supports so that it can be flipped over after printing and the support gently removed. If you have a dual head printer this is trivial as you can use dissolvable supports and print the whole car as one.

Si usted está realmente desesperado a continuación, traducir esto a Inglés con google traducir y publicar en algún lugar en el área de habla Inglés y yo te ayudaré. Normalmente ignoro los mensajes no ingleses. ¡Lo siento!. Pero te vi mencionar "desesperado".

Well this all sounds normal. The bottom layer is probably squished a bit so the bottom 1 to 3 layers are probably indeed .25mm larger on each side or .5mm larger. This is usually good because the part will stick well if you squish it in. However if dimensions must be more accurate on the bottom layer then you can move the heated bed a little farther from the nozzle until it's just right. Just be warned that your part might come off the bed during the print. Especially large parts. Now the second issue is unrelated. vertical holes always come out a bit small. Usually about 0.5mm for me. Possibly 0.7mm - not certain. This happens with PLA on every printer out there. It is caused by 3 factors: circles are modeled as polygons *inside* the circle - it's a cad thing - material shrinkage - but 90% of the problem is caused because the filament comes out of the nozzle like snot. It sticks to itself and is shrinking in the first few milliseconds such that it's like a liquid rubber band. As you place a layer down in a circle the pulling of the liquid pulls inwards. I have tried many things to fix this and by far the best is to simply add 0.5mm to all vertical holes in CAD (horizontal holes don't have the same issue). The latest cura I think even has some kind of new correction factor somewhere that addresses this but will also make your overall part a bit bigger I think. So best to do it in cad.

Yes! Please! This! I have been asking for this since the beta test back in... august 2016?? Although it's true that the new cura 2.4 is pretty amazing at controlling nozzle temp such that there is often zero leakage and zero need for prime tower. An alternative is to place your own prime towers:

@ericmc - anytime the filament is curling and not sticking to the buildplate on the bottom layer it's 99.9% of the time because the nozzle is too far away from the build plate. You can INSTANTLY confirm by pushing up on the build plate while it's printing. You can also quickly fix while printing by turning the leveling screws. The back right corner is often 1 or 2mm lower than the 3 leveling points so if your prime tower isn't sticking and your print doesn't reach the front left corner you can just lower bed at the front left which raises the bed at the rear right (it teeter totter hinges over a line connecting the other 2 bed leveling screws). But if you aren't currently printing you can redo the Z calibration which is pretty easy and quick. I always level by eye both nozzles such that they are both barely touching the bed (fuc% the stupid paper). And check your glass with a straight edge like a ruler. I strongly suspect your rear 2 corners are very low. If so, remove the glass and bend up the aluminum A LOT until it's sticking up a few mm and then put the glass back on and hopefully the 2 things cancel (it takes about 1 pound constant force to keep my glass level in the back 2 corners).

What neo said. It's usually the belt to the stepper motor. You only have to worry about Y stepper.

I don't think it's cura. I think it's the virus scanner.

The power cable is easy to fix - it is supposed to go further in and snap in place and shouldn't pull out easily. Sometimes the circuit board that holds the connector is pushed to the side. To fix, loosen the 4 screws for that circuitboard (just guess) and plug in power and move around and verify it is loose and then tighten the 4 screws again. As long as temperature is below 50C for both cores you can remove a core and re-insert and the top needs to snap in as well as the bottom. At that point the printer will re-read the eeprom on the core. Are you saying the BB core reads as an AA at that point? If so it's probably just the eeprom that is wrong. It's possible to reprogram it if you are familiar with ssh. But maybe easier to just send it back. But you *can* just print anyway. Even though it won't let you select PVA for the second core you can print something sliced in cura meant for pva in second core.