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In pronterface there is a gcode you can type or possibly a button you can hit that shows the state of all 3 endstop switches. Try sending M119 from pronterface. It should return the endstop values. You can run it many times and play with the switches in between each test. More gcode info here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code This may be obvious but did you check for litter in your z switch? It's easy for a piece of filament to fall into that z endstop hole at the bottom of the printer. If you raise the bed with your hands (with power off) and look under the bed there is a screw that sticks way down and you can see below that screw is the z endstop hole.

Sorry I got confused. I thought the UMO+ had the heated bed kit already. So I thought the UMO+ in the description was a typo. I personally have a UMO with HBK. I guess then the temp sensor is the same. But the heater is the wrong size and the wrong wattage maybe as neo says. I usually defer to neotko on UMO issues. He has I think 3 of them and uses them all every day I think for his store. So wattage is v^2/r where v is voltage and r is resistance. 3dsolex sells 25w, 35w, 40w, 50w heaters for UM2. Solving for r: r=v^2/w giving us 23, 16.5, 14.4, and 11.5 ohms respectively (notice higher power is lower resistance). Reversing equation again now for 19V we get: 15.6W, 22W, 25W, 31W respectively. so I recommend getting a 40W or 50W heater which on 19V will be 25W or 31W respectively. I know they have all of those values so if you can't find 50W in the online store just email them.

When they make the spools at the factory they are made from one long piece of filament obviously and they wrap it perfectly with no tangles. But when they cut the end it can get under but they know this is a problem for users and most manufacturers hang onto the end and tuck it somewhere. When the spool arrives you might want to be like me (like I used to) and never lose track of the end - never let go of it. Once it snaps loose it can get under another a loop so fast that it takes a slow motion camera to see it happen. But lately I don't worry so much - I just unspool several meters and usually if there is a tangle you will notice in the first 2 meters and if there is a tangle I always fix it before inserting into the printer. Once it's in the printer it can't tangle or untangle without passing the whole spool through a kink... basically not likely to happen. Printing the last tightest part of the spool - the last 4 meters - does have more friction so I tend to print that with thinner layers or slower. Save that stuff for prints that don't have to look as nice.

Thanks for pointing that out krys. All 3 of his posts were copies of other people's posts and all 3 had a link to his website. He is banned.

Cura 2.X just slices. It won't communicate over USB anymore. So either donwload cura 15.X or use cura 2.X for the slicing step and pronterface for the printing step.

You forgot to attach the photo. Extreme details on everything there is to know about getting parts to stick:

Oh - and if you are making small jewelry items I really recommend the um2go over the um3. As of today you can't get .25mm cores for the um3 (although that will change) and the um2go is more precise and better quality in my opinion and perfect for small things. And cheaper.

90% of 3mm filament is actually 2.85 to 2.9mm. Ask the manufacturer. 3mm is not necessarily a specification but a general size. However definitely ask the manufacturer as some manufacturers indeed make 3mm filament (mostly chinese companies) and it can get stuck in the bowden. You can buy a bowden from 3dsolex if you want which is a little bigger inside than Ultimaker's. Bowden's are cheap. I never heard of wax filament - sounds fascinating. Looked just now - the print temp is only about 150C which is a minor problem - the UM2 will not extrude at that temperature as a safety feature. It's easy to turn this feature off. Ask about that on this forum after you buy your printer.

That's called the prime tower aka wipe tower. You can enable visibility of that setting and then uncheck it. It is not mandatory. The idea is when one head is cooling a little filament oozes out over a few minutes and printing on the tower first leaves the little tube there. However the prime tower is a common problem and cause of failures because it defaults in the back right corner and a lot of UM3s shipped with that corner lower than the others so it often falls over unless you fix your glass first. You can change the tower location but it prints faster there where the nozzle change is occurring. People who print without the prime tower are usually pleased with the results but you do get occasional holes where pva landed on a print and caused a tiny hole in the wall of the print. prime or no prime - neither is perfect.

The bowden should not move up and down with retraction so if it is then follow the steps at the bottom to fix (pasted from elsewhere). If it still squeaks can you make a 10 second video demonstrating? Try pushing and pulling the pla through the feeder by hand while the head is >180C to see if you can duplicate the sound. I'm not familiar with any squeaks. ================== How to tighten bowden into head. First remove without scraping it. 1) Loosen the 4 thumb screws 3 full turns. 2) Remove colored C shaped clip 3) Make sure bowden is a bit loose (moves up and down slightly. 4) Push down on outer part while lifting bowden tube. 5) Optionally cut off 2mm Reverse process: 6) Push bowden all the way in - make damn sure it's all the way - if you have an aluminum spacer above your teflon part then move bowden up and down 20 or 30 times until you know where that aluminimum part starts and ends and you are seated all the way. If you just have a spring - yay - you can see if it is seated in the white teflon part (look carefully at this as you insert as the bowden can easily get stuck on the rim of the white part also! 7) Hold bowden down while lifting clip with other hand (finger nails? needle nose?). Now while holding clip up, let go of bowden and tighten the 4 thumb screws so that the bowden is in tight. At this point you should be able to push up and down on the bowden with 1 kg force and nothing should move. 8) Put the C shaped clip back on.

@neotko - are the holes in the aluminum block on UMO the same diameters as for the Olsson? I don't remember. I'm worried he might have to change out his thermocouple for a pt100 temp sensor but the pt100 temp sensor isn't compatible with UMO electronics. So does he also have to buy a whole new controller board? E3D V6 is great as long as you stay away from PLA.

Many sans serif fonts work great such as the most popular two fonts on mac and pc - helvetica and ariel respectively. Both excellent fonts. And the font I am looking at right now as I type (Arieal). I'm not going to out the guy but someone said to me personally that @rich17222 should be "given a yellow card" for choosing such a horrible font to 3d print. It was in jest of course. The purpose of serif's is to make very very small type easier to read. It's used on newsprint and magazines where the writing is quite small. For larger print - taller than say about 4mm there is no need. Serif's may be pretty in their own way but they hurt readability more than help at that point.

In cura make sure you go to machine settings and put it in "rep rap" mode. If you print over usb (which isn't officially supported) then you have to have the gcodes in reprap mode. The basic difference between reprap and utligcode modes is that in ultigcode mode the file does not do the basic startup sequence like setting heat homing and priming and also all the extruder moves are in cubic mm instead of linear mm. The advantage of ultigcode mode is you can choose the material after slicing and affect things like fan, bed temp, nozzle temp based on printer settings instead of cura settings. If you are in reprap mode, more parameters appear in cura including bed temp and nozzle temp. then save the gcode file and print it with mattercontrol.

I did it a few days ago. It wasn't hard. I forget what I did - I think I just disabled support but if you really want support you can tell it to only use the AA core for support. It's in there in the settings - was not hard to find.

Fantastic guide for people who like sketchup: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ The only correct answer (kidding) to "what's the best cad software":

There's no need - the UMO already takes multiple nozzle sizes. Although the typical nozzles from 3dsolex are smaller/shorter so you have to relevel the bed and also the bed will hit the fan shroud so first print this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/yafs-yet-another-fan-shroud-for-umo

Nylon is a fantastic material to use for cold pulls. The "low" temp is closer to 130C though. It's great because even when it is cold it is a bit flexible and when you pull hard it shrinks in cross section (pulls away from internal walls). Also it sticks to everything (burnt abs, burnt pla, dust, etc) and cleans things up nicely. I used to do cold pulls all the time but I found that they aren't all that necessary - I rarely do them now.

It might be cheaper to have most of the support be pla with just a layer of pva where support ends and part starts. But in practice it doesn't work well because pva really doesn't stick very well on top of pla. @RenoE could you make a hand drawing or something that shows what you are talking about with this 60 degree angled support? I don't quite understand.

For ninjaflex I strongly recommend oiling the filament before sliding it into the bowden and add a drop regularly during printing to the filament about one drop per meter. Ninjaflex does *not* slide very well through the bowden and oil helps immensely and there is no discernible difference in the printing. The oil just seems to disappear.

Oh - I cut them with a utility knife (aka razor knife) over a wooden block. Make sure the tubing is relaxed when cutting and not straightened first.

What country are you in printerfan? Please update your settings. I will assume USA because I know the answer in inches. All the bowdens I sell (for UM2 series, UMO series) are 29 inches. This is about 1 or 2 inches longer than default but sometimes one messes up the end and it's nice to be able to cut it shorter a few times over the years.

It's possible that with brim turned on, for this particular model, that somehow the horizontal expansion was ignored as it would be placed on top of the brim. I'm hoping that turning off brim will fix this. The default settings work for most models but sometimes there's something a little unusual about a part where it needs a tweak to the settings (in this case possibly turn off brim. Maybe). Anyway all will be clear in layer view. Make sure the PVA is touching bare glass in a few spots so it stays in place before printing.

Are you using cura 2.X or 15.x? The newer versions of cura have the infill at a higher speed. I completely disagree with this philosophy. I'm guessing your infill is much faster than 70mm/sec. Anyway, what type of printer do you have? Please update your profile settings. 70mm/sec at 200C at .15mm layers is much too fast for a um2. I'm guessing this is a um3?

Cura prints in 3 sections: outermost shell, inner shells, infill. These can print in different possible orders - typically the outermost shell is printed after the inner shell to try to improve quality but I have lost track of which versions print in which order. There is a checkbox in cura 15.X that lets you change this order. There is probably also a similar feature hidden somewhere deep in cura 2.X (there is a search feature for the features as there are so many now! try searching maybe for "order" or "first" or "last"). Making shell thickness 100mm will combine the "infill" and "shell" into one thing which will help a little bit. Why do you want it solid? Solid objects aren't much stronger (maybe .1%?) than objects with 20% infill and a shell that is about 10% of the thickness of the part. Is it just the weight you want? Do you need the object to be heavier? There are other tricks to make a part heavier (brassfill, add metal weights into the hollows of the part).

Any of the Ultimaker printers can print soft "rubber" or hard plastics. It's which material you buy. Look at the line of ninjatek products - they have two very flexible products: ninjaflex - the most flexible - like rubber band cheetah - a little less flexible. Still quite flexible - good for toy car tires https://ninjatek.com/resources/compare-filaments/ Actually a better document is this one - look only at the "tensile modulus". The smaller the number, the more flexible: http://ninjatek.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/tech-data-metric-.pdf