gr5

After you remove the parts I assume you just heat the bed and the moisture evaporates and is ready to go again? Or do you have to reapply some hairspray?

Walls in cura are not sliced if too thin. yes if you rotate 45 degrees the wall might appear slightly wider. One solution is to scale the plane up. Another is to lie to the slicer and tell it the nozzle is smaller. In cura 2.3 you just tell it "line width" is smaller. Try 0.3mm at first and if all the walls are visible keep increasing that until it is close to actual nozzle size but still prints all the walls.

Did you install new firmware? Please update your profile to indicate you own a UM2. If you accidentally put the UMO firmware on the UM2 that would explain the problem. Try fighting the head during homing. If it seems weaker in one axis than the other then probably one of the 4 wires going to the stepper is broken. The most common place for a while to break is under the metal covers in the back corners which come off with only one (or two in some models) screws. There is a DIR (direction) pin/signal that runs from the arduino chip to the stepper controller chip. So either the arduino could be bad, the PCB trace, or the stepper driver. The trace is very unlikely. The stepper driver is more likely. You can reverse the two wires in either pair to the stepper but don't do that because I suspect it's the DIR pin and the head will keep moving always only in one direction and reversing the wiring will just make it always go the other way.

You have to wait quite a while - a minute or two. Did you wait 2 minutes? If so then it's probably a cable fell out in shipping. Remove the metal covers underneath the printer (with power cable disconnected) and look for 2 ribbon cables and make sure they are seated properly.

To upload a photo click "image galery" icon just above your post - the second from the right icon. Then choose "upload image". This is better than hosting your own image because that way Ultimaker hosts it for decades instead of some random hosting service that may stop hosting it after a few weeks and then years from now people will come to this topic and not be able to see the image.

Make sure the red circled checkbox is checked (in advanced). I think that's the problem for you. Also make sure the 2 blue things are unchecked.

A picture would be helpful. Usually you can rotate it so that 3 points touch the plate. Anyway, I almost always create my own supports in CAD instead of using a slicer. However if you aren't the designer then I recommend meshmixer. It's free. Here's an article about using it for support: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/28/meshmixer-2-0-best-newcomer-in-a-supporting-role/

Those pictures are taking too long to load. I think you posted them on a server on the moon. From what I can see so far the yellow part agrees with your text. There is a top/bottom thickness and such that must have gotten unchecked or set to zero. I forget where it is in cura 2.3 but I've seen it - it's near settings about shell thickness. Do you have cura 2.3.*? For UMO I recommend cura 15.04.*

I don't think I'm allowed to say anything. :(

I don't understand this part. Is it that you get an error message mentioning this file from cura? Or that you can't delete this file? Or something else?

It was the aluminum that was pulling down on the glass. In the rear 2 corners. The glass itself would revert to flat as soon as I removed it from the bed. Not just my Um3. At least 2 other people. I'm guessing 30% of all UM3's have this issue - probably something happens in shipping. I could be wrong. It could be that it's a known issue that they fixed many months ago.

Active leveling currently (december 2016) assumes the glass is in a plane. If your glass is shaped like a horse saddle or other shape active leveling isn't enough. Hopefully a future software upgrade will take care of this and do 9 point leveling. Or you can spend one minute (ONE MINUTE!) leveling it yourself bending up the corners. It really is that easy if you can find a straight edge that is between 10cm and 24cm long (definitely the hard part).

My towers on UM3 got knocked down for a while and a few friends and the problem turned out to be that the glass wasn't flat - if you put a ruler on the glass you can see the rear 2 corners are a bit low and the tower is on the right rear corner. The solution was so simple! remove the glass and confirm that the problem is with the plate underneath and then just bend up the corners until it's flatter and put the glass back on. Problem solved! No more prime towers falling over!

Jinja you want to squish the filament more into the glass - that's the main thing. Also you should use a liquid glue solution. More info here - it's a long video but I couldn't make it much shorter and keep in all the good info. After watching this you will be an expert at getting parts to stick to glass and with a part this large you need to use all the tricks.

Are you sure you know what it means. I'm not certain but here's my understanding which could be wrong. Each layer is thought by cura as a series of separate islands of plastic. If there is more than one island then it has to leave one island and travel to another across open space. Going from island 1 to 3 might normally have it pass right over island 2 but the avoid distance makes it go around island 2 and with a margin of space.

Please show a very short video. Also pull some filament backwards through the feeder to make sure it isn't all ground up inside the feeder.

How much flexibility do you want - if only a little more flexible then try nylon - an amazing material. Or nGen from colorfabb. If you want it as flexible as a rubber band then go for ninjaflex. There are lots of flexibilities to choose from. The basic measurement of flexibility is called the "modulus" e.g. young's modulus or tensile modulus, etc. They all basically measure the same thing. High values are stiff materials. These values are published by the manufacturer.

Hmm. I'd check it anyway. I'd also remove the cover and add a fan just to see if that helps. I think UM lowered the current twice.

Here's the problem: 2016-12-21 20:23:18,875 - ERROR - An exception occurred loading Machine Instance: C:\Users\Tadej/AppData/Local/cura\machine_instances\Ultimaker+Original.stack.cfg: File C:\Users\Tadej/AppData/Local/cura\machine_instances\Ultimaker+Original.stack.cfg is an invalid settings file So exit cura, delete everything in that folder (local/cura) and then start cura back up again. It will populate those folders with fresh/safe profiles. Note that cura 2.1 and 2.3 both used that folder and the files that cura 2.1 created can crash cura 2.3.

There's a known overheating issue on the Z axis driver with newer UM2 and UM2+ PCBs. The servo itself is unlikely to overheat. The servo can get up to 80C no problems. The official fix was to lower the current to the axes. Another fix is to remove the cover and add a fan. This problem happens even in coldish environments (not just when the air is at 28C). Some versions of Marlin (tinker maybe? latest maybe?) let you change the z current here: Z axis max current adjustment: Maintenance -> Advanced -> Motion settings -> Current Z I think it will lose this setting when you power cycle maybe. There might be a save command so you don't lose it? You can also adjust with M907 M907 Z1000 M500 If you don't do the M500 the printer will go back to previous setting on power cycle. That lowers the max Z current to 1000ma (I think the default is 1250).

Although Ultimaker is trying to make printers plug and play and easy to use, if you want to hit the limits of it's capabilities you have to spend many hours. You won't have to print everything twice - mostly you will learn how much to adjust models and get it right usually the first time (with practice). However once you change color of filament you might have to start over. These machines are more like a milling machines in complexity and required knowledge than like a 2D printer. Did you get that? 3d printer complexity not like 2d printer even though both phrases are identical except for one digit.

The log file is your friend. Something similar to: C:\Users\Otis\AppData\Local\cura\cura.log

Anything you can imagine measuring and finding an error you can improve. So for example the printer tends to be pretty consistent if you use all the same settings in cura. If a key section of your part is 10 microns too big just reduce the part size by 10 microns in cad and it will probably come out perfect every time after that. But change filament type or temperature or speed or infill speed or infill pattern and now you have to start over with the measurements. fdm printers have a round nozzle hole - default for um2 and um3 is .4mm so you are going to get a radius of curvature on corners of 0.2mm. HOWEVER you can always put in a smaller nozzle such as a .25mm nozzle. But now your prints will be 4X slower. The great advantage of fdm over sla printers is mostly materials. You have more materials to choose from with fdm and they tend to be less brittle. Also price. FDM materials are much cheaper than resin. So this kind of measurement is difficult. It's best to just go to 3dhubs and find someone near you with a UM2 and ask them to print your part and just look at the results versus someone near you with a form2. I'm not sure but my gut says the UM2 will probably print a little better than the UM3. Partly because people who have a UM3 couldn't have had it very long and probably aren't experts with it yet. Partly because the head is lighter.

@ultimoose - another option is to flip that part over so that the PVA is underneath the part. PLA on *top* of PVA works quite well. It's the other way around that's tricky and mostly needs that "horizontal expansion" feature in cura.

I don't recommend printing anything abrasive using um3 until cheaper 3rd party cores come out or swappable nozzle cores or ruby nozzled cores. A few of those options should happen in the next few months I'm sure.