gr5

The leveling procedure is not so good. Try it my way as shown in this video. The link below should jump into the UM2 leveling procedure at 4:49 but there is other great advice in the video. I tried to keep it short but there is a lot of details to getting parts to stick every time perfectly. ARRGG - this stupid forum won't honor the full link. So just skip to 4:49 in the video!

Again - I think it's fine. Not a problem as far as I can see and hear.

Use oil. I think I said this above somewhere but take some thin oil like sewing machine oil or 3-in-one oil (any petroleum oil). Not wd40! Put one drop near the end of the filament before inserting and then slide that through the bowden in and out a few times until you can see small amoutns of oil all along the bowden. Then add one drop of oil per meter as the filament prints. I put the back of the printer over the edge of a table and unwind the filament until the loop almost touches the floor, then add a drop of oil. Every 30 minutes or so I check back on it and uncoil more filament and add more oil.

I give out free nozzle cleaning needles to anyone who orders anything on my store. For first time customers. Or customers who request the tool. They only cost me about 10 cents each but are worth so much more when you want to clean a clog in a hurry. thegr5store.com Anyway usually dynamism has good customer support. @remy ? Also fbrc8.com might have some cores for sale. PVA is much harder to print than PLA. It doesn't stick to itself so well and it doesn't behave as well. Melted PLA behaves similar to molten liquid glass in that it sticks to itself very well. Like honey but even better. Melted PVA behaves more like mortar (the stuff between bricks) in that it doesn't stick to itself very well until it hardens. PVA also does not stick well on top of PLA so well. It works but barely. PVA works so much better with Nylon.

I haven't used it in years. It works on UMO and probably on UM2. Sounds like it works on the UM3 also according to farmerritchie below.

Did you read all the posts above? Did you add oil? Bed should be at 60C. If it still doesn't stick well to bed move the bed closer to the nozzle by turning the 3 leveling screws an equal amount.

@Snipper you simply tell Cura your nozzle size. Or if you have Cura 2.3 I guess you have to set the "line width" to the nozzle size.

The bleeding edge cura 2.X - as of november 2016 I don't think it does support this. But I still use Cura 15.04.6 which supports this with a plugin. Older cura can be found here: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list You want the pause-at-z plugin. UM2 series printers all support pause from gcode but I'm not certain about UM3. I have a UM3 but I haven't tried to see if a gcode will pause the UM3. I'm sure UM3 will support it at some point.

lol - that's the whole point of brim. If it doesn't stick to the part then the part is more likely to fall off. But definitely you can do this. It's called "skirt". So just turn off brim and you will get a skirt instead which is like brim but is not touching the part.

So now @torgeir the question isn't "what's are good soldering techniques" but "where should I put the wire that grounds this signal since now you tell me not all grounds are the same?".

There shouldn't be oil on the black blocks but it won't hurt them either. > Also when i move the print head i feel the replacement printer have much more strong hold to the head. This is definitely related to the problem I'm sure. Something was wrong with the blocks or the belts. Inside the blocks is a strong spring that keeps the belt tight. Maybe something was wrong with the spring.

I think the X and Y axes are 80 steps/mm and 16 microstepping so 5 full steps per mm. Are those lines exactly 5mm apart (in X - not along the surface)? This could be the zebra step issue but I don't think so - these look too visible for 45 degrees. Usually "zebra" steps are only visible when within tilted 10 degrees from X or Y or Z axis.

Or you could repair the file with meshlab. Or there are repair services on the web.

Try editing it slightly so that there is a clear bridge area. Maybe even have it two levels - one level to create the bridge and then .2mm higher have the rest of the bridge on top.

>I just moved the cable 2cm apart That might be it. It could be "crosstalk".

What issue are you seeing Labeeb? If your build plate falls suddenly part way through a print it is usually caused by overheating stepper drivers. The fix was to lower the current to the stepper driver which can be done by installing the latest firmware or simply through a gcode.

Maybe he didn't do the slash: 8080 *slash* ?action=stream

Could you upload the STL somewhere and provide a link? I think your bridge isn't perfectly flat and the sides are lower or something else about the bridge is confusing cura. For example, maybe the edges of the bridge have no support. Or maybe the sides are lower than the center. By a tiny amount not visible.

1) Did you change the firmware to an ultimaker 2 go recently? That is half as tall. 2) Does the bed move all the way down before it goes up half way? 3) Did you mess with the board a little? there is a connector on the bottom of the board and if you accidentally plug the fan into that connector then the Z moves half as far (16 microsteps instead of 8).

Ignore the x,y,z and only pay attention to the scale. If it says 1.0 then it is 1.0. The gray means it doesn't fit.

I don't know if that is fixable. Well you can try different filaments. Lighter colors will hide that a bit more. But more importantly different colors flow differently and some show up repeating patterns like this better and other's just kind of come out more like toothpaste and don't show up details like this.

There were I believe some strange bugs in the planner where if you moved X,Y,Z axes all at the same time sometimes it screwed up and moved faster than it should be possible which causes some of the axes to lose steps. I don't know if all of these were fixed. It's not an obvious bug because usually the Z axis moves all by itself. I suppose it's possible that the bug still exists and combine that with SD card read errors it could do a strange move suddenly and lose steps in one or more axes. But it seems unlikely to me. It seems more likely that you lost steps due to a hardware problem in the Y axis and it was printing that arc where the red arrow points on the far arc behind the part right when it happened and so printed in thin air and then went to do the infill maybe or finished the arc onto existing layer below giving you a large loop behind the part but then the fan somehow blue the loop to the right. The hardware problem could be loose pulley (I know - you tightened them all) or overheating driver or high friction in the Y axis.

Yes tinker but @Nicolinux did not imply that he got the error this time. I think his post is in the wrong thread. Nico you checked that belt pulleys are tight but did you check for friction? And did you check the pulley on the motor? It's usually the one on the motor.

I'm thinking the Z distance in the support settings is too far and should be set to zero maybe? I'm not sure of the answer @Labern. Definitely fan can help overhangs in general but this is supported so I'm not sure. With ABS never do 100% fan. 30% is plenty of fan for ABS and enclosing your printer definitely helps a lot so keep doing that. Maybe you should try a small test print to try different support settings - something that only takes 15 minutes to print.

Yes, exact same gcode works as on UMO for controlling bed temp.