gr5

Instead of popping the axle out a second time it's easier to just loosen the set screws on a few pulleys, let the tension even out and position the head properly and then retighten. FYI there are belt tighteners *inside* the side blocks.

Thanks but they have the 1.75. I have the stock 2.85 Arrg! Well at the top of the page there is a link to the 1.75mm products. That has nothing to do with the TFT part. It's for 3mm filament (or 2.85mm). It's confusing I know but this web store has limited controls and I wanted to put the 1.75mm related products on a separate catalog/section so people don't get confused. Yet @EastUm2 got confused anyway. I don't know how to put the catalog links on the left side of the page. I read about it but it didn't work for me.

I have pulled apart so many things on my um2 without having a clue what I'm doing. I haven't broken anything yet. You will eventually have to take the head apart almost for sure to fix some clog or something. You will have to remove the bowden some day to get some stuck filament out. You will have all kinds of issues. Eventually. Pushing the rod back in the hole and back in the slot is not a big deal but sure go ahead and wait. Basically I think if you damage something while trying to repair it then you might pay a small fee for some part. Typically. But no promises from me.

That's the voltage with no load. Once you put a load on it (the fan) there isn't a good pathway for enough current to get the fan spinning. I'd say 99% chance the problem is Q4 now.

Hmm. Not sure. Did you check the X/Y distance setting in the support options? Maybe try the newer beta cura where this code has been rewritten. Personally I would probably add it in cad. A little vertical wall that goes under the tip of that overhang.

Save that somewhere! You might need to downgrade to "tinker 16.03.1" at some point in the future if a future release of tinker doesn't let you go above 100c bed temp. It's not too hard to build your own firmware. The max temperatures are extremely easy to edit (in Configuration.h - very well commented) once you figure out how to build Marlin.

I usually print 0.1 or 0.2 layer height. Rarely anything else. Everyone is different. I don't know the other answers.

Actually fbrc8 would probably love to know the serial number so they can figure out who messed up when assembling your machine and remind them to check the torque on every set screw.

Nope. But you'll be fine. Just be gentle - this is easy stuff. Who did you buy it from? printedSolid/dynamism/fbrc8 all have great service. They would rather you fixed it yourself than have to have it shipped back and forth (where it will likely get damaged further by the elephants that work for shipping companies).

I had this happen once with PLA but mostly this happens to people with PET and other less common materials. Just flip it over. If you live in a town/city where there are glass windows then chances are you can get very inexpensive glass made to order any size/thickness you ask and ground down for less money than a nozzle or 2 cups of coffee. It's not pyrex glass. Ultimaker uses "tempered" glass but ordinary glass works fine. The unusual part is the thickness. But still cheap and easy to get.

Both symptoms sound like underextrusion. Either you are printing too fast or too cold or your nozzle diameter is smaller than you think (maybe a layer of baked on PLA making it smaller). Try printing at 1/4 the speed and see if that helps. Also raise the temp by 10C. If cura nozzle size matches your nozzle and shell width is a multiple of nozzle size then it should be printing lines of nozzle size width and spacing. But if you mess with it - e.g. nozzle=.5 and shell width=1.2mm then you get results as you describe.

If it spins at 9V and it is now 14V it will certainly spin! So if you see 14V the fan must not be connected. I would ohm out the wires one more time end to end (under the printer to fan) - each wire. Just to make sure you repaired it properly. But it's probably the darlington transistor: Q4 - this fails easily and can fail in two possible modes: always on, always off. You may have it failing in the "always off" mode. Or you didn't properly repair the wires. Part number BD679. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BD679/497-5776-ND/1300084 schematic here: The circuit diagram, and board layout are here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.7_PCB There is a zip file at the top. It contains the "brd" file which is the layout. Also the "sch" file which is the schematic. Both files can be opened by eagle software which is free: http://www.cadsoftusa.com/download-eagle/

I suspect your nozzle temp is fine and you just to print with the fan off to fix the adhesion issues. Or fan on the minimum (20%? 30%?) to get it to spin and enclose the machine.

>The design of this holder looks a bit weird to me since the metal axle is not fully enclosed by the plastic True but then it would be hard to manufacture.

This has never happened to me (on purpose) but is very easy to fix. Permanently. Basically there are pulleys and plastic spacers near the 4 corners of the machine - 8 of them. They keep the axle from sliding out of the machine (but don't prevent it sliding inward). The side where it slid out - the pulley there has a set screw which was not tight enough. Just push the axle back into the hole where it belongs and line it up so it is all the way in and won't go any further, then slide the pulley nearest the "fell out hole" against the outer wall and tighten the hell out of that set screw. Those are 2mm hex set screws. Do not use the wrong size tool. If you use an L shaped tool you should be tightening enough for it to hurt your fingers. tight enough to actually twist the tool slightly where you are scared it will break. Don't use pliers or other torque increasing tools as then you might break it, but very very tight. You can add lock tite but I never did and my screws on all my printers have held for years now. As far as the center/thinner rods that go through the head - they can just snap back into the side blocks - you have to push with a certain amount of force - enough to bend and damage the thicker rods (or those thinner rods) so brace yourself against the frame and not against the rod. Use your other hand to hold the sliding block so it doesn't tilt and squeeze/snap it back in.

My video uses PLA so you have to use PLA to check the temperature. ABS is usually *less* brittle (more flexible) than PLA so something is very wrog with your ABS. I have 3 year old ABS that still prints fine (printed some today). I would throw away any brittle ABS.

99% of the circuitry is identical to the this board here which is a simple PDF file: ULTIMAKER 2 SCHEMATIC - click "raw": https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf

I didn't install altium either, sorry. Maybe an electrical engineer can answer this... Well I suppose if you can find the correct voltage you just bring it over to one of the 2 fan pins - one fan pin should be ground and the other is probably a half volt or so above 0V or maybe floating.

If you read through this whole thread there is specific advice for this exact problem (I think or maybe it's the other way around - PVA not adhere to PLA?). Mostly I think the advice is "less fan". https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20293-any-experiences-with-dual-extrusion-and-pva

To check the temp sensor the simplest way that works reasonably well is here: ABS often has layer adhesion issues. This is very common for people new to ABS (including me!). It is caused because the layer below is not melting (not heating enough) when the layer above is laid upon it. Because ABS has a much higher melting and softening temperature. The solution is heat. Actually if you simply turn the fan off you will get fantastic layer adhesion. Lowering the fan to 30% will help a lot but not as well as turning it off. Unfortunately if you turn the fan off you get bad overhangs and bad bridging. But if you are printing something with 100% vertical walls and zero overhangs this is the best solution. If you have any kind of leaning walls (not vertical) that are overhanging then you should have the minimum fan and also consider enclosing your machine somewhat to get the air temp up to around 40C to 50C (hotter than 50C is probably bad for the steppers). Running the nozzle at 255C or hotter is a bad solution because it is so easy to clog the nozzle with ABS at those temperatures - ABS bakes into a gunky, gummy mess much faster than PLA. Leaving it in the nozze at 255C for even just 3 minutes could cause a horrible nozzle clog.

This is a common problem - you have to upgrade the firmware to the um2+. So for example in Cura switch the machine to um2+ and then upload firmware.

They are certainly aware that some steppers - especially the Z stepper overheat. when they do overheat they turn off for a few seconds and the table falls down and you get bad results. I think something must have changed in this circuit because it works fine for most people. In the latest firmware I believe the currents are default to 1000ma (close to your suggested 918ma) and if you call support complaining about these problems they recommend lowering to 1000ma. I will call attention to this posting - thank you very much for this in depth posting - and let both the hardware designer and the firmware designer know of this. Unfortunately if the older boards use one resistor and the newer boards use a different resistor then I don't know how they can tell who has which!

What erin said. It looks like a bit of glue. I use a paint brush, add water, and spread the glue around very thin. Then heat up the bed and it should dry within 5 minutes almost invisible.

Usually if the heater cables are loose it gets a sensor error. Reading only 40C high is very rare - not sure I ever heard of this before. Do you have a voltmeter? The bed should be about 108 ohms at room temperature. I would ohm it out - maybe one of the wires is about 10 ohms resistance and making the temperature look high. Also consider remelting all the solder on the 4 tabs for the heated bed where that terminal connector connects the 4 wires to the heated bed.

PLA is the best for good looking prints. Much better than any other material. You can sand it and paint it and "bondo" it no problem. PLA is incredibly strong - just as strong as ABS. ABS has a reputation for being stronger because it used to be more flexible but pretty much all formulations of PLA are almost as fleixible as ABS. The only downside of PLA over the other materials you mention is that it can't handle high temperatures - temperatures that would kill a human can also destroy PLA. The only common situations are: hot water/tea/beverages and in a car on a hot sunny summer day when the inside of the car. So you can't use PLA to make a GPS holder. Bowden is a fantastic tradeoff - you get better quality prints mostly because of the bowden. It's complicated and I've explained it 30 times now but... it's better.