gr5

>Now printing Scaffold with 215°C instead of 195°C In your photo with the support on top of the tube - it looks like it worked, right? Was it simply raising the temperature? Are you using your crossflow fan still? Or is this tube a "zero fan" print?

I would trust neotko. I have not used this product yet (1.75mm conversion) but intend to some day. I got my information from Anders Olsson - he claims the 3mm bowden is great with 1.75mm filament. But he was printing with his strange filament I assume and probably had zero retractions or something. Or maybe he printed slow.

I wish I could see your pictures. All of your posts Ronan and no pictures still :( Blue tape works great but glass is better for most prints I think. More convenient. For small parts I often level at the normal/nominal leveling height that the procedure suggests and the bottom layer is indeed .3mm thick. But for 95% of what I print I want it to stick so I level it much closer such that the bottom layer is thinner than .3mm even though I tell cura to make it .3mm.

Unless you have hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of 1.75mm filament I would stay away from the conversion kit. You don't actually need a 1.75 bowden but it helps quite a bit. I will *finally* be getting some soon (after many months waiting from 3dsolex). 3dsolex is finally starting to get more serious regarding 1.75mm conversion kits and nozzles. Initially we thought we'd be selling maybe 10 kits ever. But after testing the waters there does seem to be a small niche market.

As mentioned in #6 above, squishing the filament well into the glass is absolutely critical if you want the part to stick well. So to achieve this you want to level lower than the leveling procedure suggests. If you level say .05mm lower than nominal and you print a .3mm bottom layer than you are pushing .3mm of filament into .25mm space. If you are printing a .2mm bottom layer then you are printing .2mm into a .15mm space. I would think S3D would therefore be squishing *more* and not less. However if you level .05mm *higher* than nominal then a thicker bottom layer will conversely reduce the problem somewhat.

Also when you go to print the second half of you model, flip it about the X axis (or Y axis) first so it is flipped upside down - then rotate it 90 degrees about the Z axis so that if it is squished slightly into a parallelogram it will match the parallelogram of the other half. To visualize this it might help to kind of draw a parallelogram with equal length sides and flip it and then rotate it about Z by 90.

Is it too late to return the printer? You don't need it perfectly square but... If you can see the error by eye then it needs to be fixed. You could try loosening but not removing all the screws that hold the 4 sides and the top together and then push the printer into the correct shape and retitghten. Basically you need to undo the damage done by shipping (this is always shippings fault - I think they hire elephants). So you could try to have an elephant sit on the printer in the other direction to push it back to square (or try my loosening the screws method).

I'm not sure why S3d would be different but I recommend you add a little glue. Use the gluestick that came with the printer and add some water and spread with a tissue. lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

1- I have no idea. For the most part all the common printers have a Z system that is good enough to print any reasonable resolution - the problem is that with very thin z layers it can take days or weeks to make a print. So the problem is time, not Z accuracy. Usually. 2 = stronger doesn't help - the flexible filament if you push it hard at all will turn into a sine wave going back and forth in the bowden or maybe slipping out of the feeder without going to the nozzle at all.

Ronan next time show a photo - cell phones have great macro lenses built in. yellowshark was giving you the wrong advice as you are describing "warping corners" and not "elephant foot". Anyway you need to get your part to stick to the glass better: lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

It looks like a Z axis issue. The Z axis moves a smaller distance than it should every 5 layers. I'm wondering if you are close the resolution of the Z and you lose a step every 5 layers. Stepper drivers are very complicated and with microstepping it is very common for some microsteps to do nothing (not advance the motor) for complicated reasons that I don't fully understand such that it is not quite linear movement (but close enough for most things). Alternatively is that Z distance where the pattern repeats an identical distance to one full rotation of Z screw? It seems unlikely but worth checking.

Try a few experiments. Try running the leveling procedure again. Try printing something that came on the SD card from ultimaker to help decide if you did something wrong in cura or if all prints do this.

6mm is crazy off. Is it possible one or both of the parts are warping off the glass bed? If you don't do everything properly the part will pull itself off the glass at some point. Once that happens all bets are off. Other than that guess, I really doubt the problem is with the printer - I mean does the printer sit flat on the table? Or does it rock? Does it look like a parallelogram when viewed from above? More likely something went wrong with the scaling step or the split step or the model is bad. I'd check if the 2 halves line up *before* printing. Maybe check the gcodes and measure by counting the 10mm squares on the print bed in cura. You should be able to see the error there.

The UM2 series printers (and the pluses) are very sensitive to weak USB signals or bad USB cables. Often it helps to switch computers and cables. But mostly computers. Some computers have a much more powerful USB signal. Some people have purchased a cheap ($10?) USB buffer and that often helps quite a bit. Also try turning the brick completely off until the blue light goes out (may take 10 hours but you can speed it up by turning the printer on while brick is unplugged from house power and then plugging brick back in).

In cura you can just click on the part and scale by 25.4 (the number of millimeters in an inch).

Probably the hardest thing I ever printed was a propeller. This one came out very very nice! PVA prints up to about 170C which is probably not hot enough to melt the PLA below it. Consider maybe covering the top and front of the machine such that the PLA is at it's glass temp? Not sure if that will help as then you need even more fan. Maybe instead turn off the fan while printing PVA? And turn the fan back on when printing PLA?

There's 2 possibilities. Most likely settings are different cura. You can print a um2 job on the um2+ and you can print a um2+ job on the um2 as long as it isn't too tall. I actually usually slice for the um2go so it can print on any printer, lol. I'm guessing one of the many speed settings is different, (like bottom layer speed, infill speed and so on). However another possibility is the acceleration. I don't know if you can see it with regular marlin firmware - I think you can under motion settings? It's typically 5000mm^2/sec on factory shipped Ultimakers but it can probably go to 9000mm^2/sec no problem. Acceleration is more important than print speed for smaller parts because it might never get up to full speed with the slower acceleration. Keep in mind that Makerbot's and other printers with feeder motor on the head have more like 1000mm^2/sec acceleration.

Your stl file is faulty. NEVER PRINT A FILE without looking at it first in "layer view". You would have seen the problem right away. I looked at you gcode file - it looks horrible - just like your print. If you look at your part in xray view you will see it has an extra face (it's not a printable part as is - it has an interior curved wall) and cura doesn't know which is inside and which is supposed to be not printed and it gets very confused. Remove the red wall and that should fix the problem. here is xray view: RED IS BAD. It means passing a line through your part hits an odd number of walls so it either has a hole or in your case an extra wall.

You can get 3dsolex nozzles in canada from shop3d.ca. They have a polished inner surface which gives you much less pressure in the nozzle which gives you much better prints or you can print low quality prints much faster than you would with a normal e3dv6 nozzle.

It's possible that your bed is very slightly out of level and it is getting squished better on one location of the bed but worse in another section. Not squishing the filament (#6 above) is the most common mistake because the leveling procedure by default does not give you enough squish.

Well keep in mind that when the heated bed is at 75C the glass is at 60C. I did most of the testing for this kit even though 3dsolex developed the hardware portion. I compared it to a UM2 side by side using a cheap infrared thermometer. A big difference between the UM2 and UM2go is that the UM2go has a steel plate and the UM2 has an aluminum plate. Aluminum conducts heat much better. The firmware that I wrote for the um2go gives the nozzle priority. So if the bed is getting cooler than desired that means the nozzle is working hard to keep the nozzle at temperature. Again, I have a 39W nozzle heater and can easily print with the bed at 75C and it never goes below 74C. No covers on the printer. I very often print ABS and keep the bed above 100C (with ABS I cover the printer top and front so the air is about 40C inside the um2go). With the old 25W nozzle I could also keep the bed around 75C but just barely. It would often dip to 70C because the nozzle heater was on more -- so the bed was turned off more.

There's another possibility - maybe the nozzle is touching the fan shroud - a common problem with olsson blocks. In this case, once the fans come on, the nozzle needs almost 100% of the power and there is very little left over for the bed. Make sure the nozzle is as high as possible - to do this remove only the front left thumb screw to get access to the round nut, heat the nozzle to 150C, remove the bowden and then using a thin screw driver rotate the nut until the nozzle is as high as possible. Maybe also remove the fan shroud and add some kapton tape between the block and the fan shroud.

Did you read the post right above yours? Please supply more information about your problem. I can't tell you how many times people say "I have the same issue" but they have a completely different issue.

Oh! I thought "UM2+" referred to the left print and "stock" referred to the right print!

Oh - also - don't mess with the heated bed pid. It's fine as is. The problem you are having is that for some reason the heated bed is not getting the power it needs.