gr5

If it's the rod it will stick in the same place and both bearings will stick in the same place on the same rod.

I'm talking about the UMO with the wood bed - not the metal bed. I've never heard of anyone with a metal bed like you needing a weight. The UMO wood bed was so light weight that many people were able to eliminate this kind of thing by adding a weight.

I just looked at that part in cura and it looks fine. When you crop out the "good" parts of your part in the above image I would immediately think you have a z-stage issue where the stage drops too much for some layers and not enough for others and you get those underextruded gaps. But it can't be that because the problem isn't on the entire layer, right? It's just in this one spot. So then I thought - well it's pretty heavy overhang so maybe your fans aren't on? Make sure the 2 side fans are at 100% by the time they get to this level. This should be easy for you to eliminate. My final thought is it looks like you used support... make sure the print speed for support is the same as your normal print speed - make ALL SPEEDS the same (well not travel speed). The problem is if you are printing the support slow and then print the outer edge fast you will initially get underextrusion until the pressure can build up in the print head. This last explanation is the only theory that fits what I see but I'm not certain this is the issue. Another thought is that your axes are binding up as you move away from center. Do your 2 thin rods that go through the head look perpendicular to you? With the servos unpowered push the head around to see if friction increases in that corner of your printer.

Your k1 is broken. I just shorted mine out. Try wacking it. Here's a video that shows you how to get it to close if yours is like mine. One of the founders of UM told me I could just short it out because it isn't used - it was meant for a safety thing but never implemented.

Just add weight to your bed. Lots of people have done this with the old wooden UMO and they were very very happy with the results.

What country are you in neotko? I think the nut is a triple helix thread.

that last part - I think that's the main problem! Do the other to printers have "play" like that? I think you can fix this printer by adding a heavy weight - maybe a brick - to the back of the bed. Suspended below. That will eliminate that play.

CRAZY! I sent two 25W heaters to wisonsin at the exact same time. The one to Neenah WI got there 4 DAYS ago! Yours must be the other one. You must be in the middle of nowhere! An extra 5 days from Neenah WI to your town? Wow. Or maybe just bad luck? Anyway why did you order a 25W? Why not 35W or 40W? If you are getting "heater error" then one simple fix is to just get more watts. my 25W heater may be *less* wattage then the 25W heater from Ultimaker. They all vary quite a bit.

Wade if you ordered on the 17th I would have thought you would have gotten it by now. Checking orders I only see 2 orders on the 17th involving heaters and they were both only 25 watt and both went to people in Wisconsin. Was one of those yours? If you ordered from me you should have gotten a tracking number. I was in Florida Dec 17 to 21 and my neighbors daughter did fulfillment and things were slow (maybe an extra day delayed at worst).

I asked him for €5000 of stock a few weeks ago and he's too sick to do that. Hopefully my order has higher priority than replies to customers since all the stuff is in his house but... I know what you mean. Hopefully he'll get better, enjoy Christmas and then stock will start moving again. Poor Carl has to deal with so many people now! Chinese manufacturers who keep screwing up parts, resellers bugging him for more parts and so on and new products (some really cool new stuff coming out such as extra hard nozzles).

3dsolex has been on vacation and I think Carl is now sick. I think he said he was going to cancel all orders and make people order through the resellers but I'm not sure. Maybe just some orders? Sorry if your order gets cancelled and even sorrier if I'm wrong and you order 2 by accident. here's the exact quote from 3dsolex:

Also some colors show errors more than others. I think white is the worst but black also shows certain other kinds of errors if it's shiny because all you see is reflections so the layers are much more visible in black parts.

White filament is less viscous (more like water than toothpaste) and so it doesn't stay exactly where you put it. It also leaks more so you get stringing. Better to print with some other color and then paint it white if you want it to look perfect.

So tinkergnome it sounds like you are saying the m301 failed because it never responded with the updated values.

tinkergone - is m301 case sensitive? Can he read back the current parameters before he does the m500 to see if it's the m500 or the m301 that is failing? And finally, maybe he should to a factory reset to get his eeprom settings in the correct position for tinkergone? Or is that silly?

Tell them you'll change the parts yourself and then you won't have to wait a few days for it to get fixed and it will save them lots of money on shipping.

I have no idea why everyone is looking at the heated bed - it seems much more likely the power brick is defective. I'm an electrical engineer so I would measure the current coming out of the brick for the 1 second that the heated bed is on but that's tricky to do. I would just ask your supplier to send you another power brick. They are a bit expensive. 30 ohms is too high - that would be only about 25 Watts for the bed, but it's more like 100 watts so it should be about 6 ohms (not 30 ohms). I think you somehow measured it wrong. The brown stain on the board is far from the heated bed connection so I think unrelated.

I forget how long it takes to save with M500 but I think it's under a second. If it was more than 5 seconds I would have remembered. You probably never set the PID values in the first place. Maybe read this: http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning in summary - M303 is for running the autotune. M301 is used to set the PID values - this is critical step I believe. Then read up on gcodes here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code M503 reads back your current PID settings to make sure you set them up right. Then you can test them and/or save them with M500. After M500 you can either power cycle or simply do a M501 to read the parameters back in from eeprom and display them with M503.

Or maybe there is extreme stringing - maybe you didn't check "retraction"? Or somehow your retraction distance on the printer got set to zero mm? instead of the default 4.5mm?

That is so bizarre! As far as I can tell it looks like sometimes the X axis goes backwards while printing. But it's consistent enough that the part has a consistent length. I have never seen anything like that. I guess I'd like to see it printing the bottom layer - or the first layer where it doesn't properly make that arc. A video. Why would the X axis go backwards? Does it go backwards? I can't imagine how else it could make that pattern.

Not yet. I'll keep my eye out.

> I'll post an update if it improves! Cool. Please do.

In your upper photo you show the normal view of cura - you should try two other views. First of all never try to print anything without checking it in layer view first - I think that would have shown you that it wasn't going to print it right. Then check the part in xray view mode. In xray mode it shows red wherever there is a problem. If there is no red then uncheck all the "fix horrible" checkboxs - I think type "A" is checked by default. This post may sound confusing to you but just try these things and see what happens.

Oh - if you are going to buy from my store you might want to get an Olsson block while you are at it (shop3d.ca has those). That will let you change nozzles easily and if you want to print real fast you can print with a .8mm nozzle (4X faster). Only one wall pass needed to get .8mm walls instead of 2 passes and you can print .3mm thick layers if you are in a rush. Also with the olsson block it's easier to diagnose if there is a problem with the TFT because you can remove the nozzle and push the PLA though the teflon while it's under pressure by the bowden and spring and feel the resistance.

1) You still didn't answer about if this is a new problem or since you got the printers. I'll number stuff so it's easier for you to keep track. 2) No one seems to have an exact number on how long teflon lasts. I've heard "500 hours" but I'm not sure what temp as it lasts *much* longer at 220C than at 240C. 3) I sell a higher temp teflon called "TFT" which you can print at 255C continuous for years no problem. I only sell to USA, Canada, Mexico but for people outside of North America go to 3dsolex.com (I'm a distributor for them). My website is http://gr5.org/store/. I have a reseller in canada at shop3d.ca but he doesn't sell the TFT parts - just ultimaker teflon. My store is at gr5.org/store/