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By the way - you really don't want to power up the main PCB without the fan and cover as there are a few key components that can overheat and fail in well under a minute. Whereas the new - smaller PCB can run without it's cover no problem.

Turn on ONLY the bed and not the nozzle. In the first image below you should see light coming from that LED as shown. If not something is wrong with this board or arduino or your firmware. I doubt it's the firmware as any version of firmware that mentions heated bed is probably the correct version. Even if the wires coming out of the pcb are broken or disconnected from the next board you will still get the led to light up when it is trying to heat. Now on the newer board - you want this LED to light up as shown. If not then most likely it's the red/black cable coming in from the left at the bottom of the photo - check both ends of that cable - especially the end where it plugs into the main circuit board - that's the most likely faiure point - those 2 screws. If the red light *is* on then you were checking the right things - the 2 screws shown in this second image just above the red led, check the wiring to the bed and so on.

arrgg -- this is frustrating to read, lol. If the LED is not lighting you are wasting your time checking cables and bed. If the led is not lighting you need to work from there backwards to the arduino.

Be careful with hips. I'm told if you keep it at temperature in the nozzle for a few minutes it self clogs. So don't leave the nozzle hot with hips in it - always be printing or power down.

In cura there is a setting under quality called "cutoff object obttom" in advanced tab. Make sure this is zero. You may have set this to a non-zero value in the past and didn't realize that the settings get carried forward. Set this to zero. Alternatively check your "fix horrible" settings. Try checking either none of them or alternatively "type a" only.

Well you see how some layers stick out? If you think of each layer as a ring - some rings have a larger diameter. This is because it is squirting out more plastic than there is space to put it. It can be that the extruder is working at double speed for one complete layer - either because temperature is much higher (if temp is higher the plastic is less viscous - more like water than tooth paste and so pressure is higher and extruder moves more filament) or filament diamter is variable (but it would have to vary hugely - like 50% change in diameter). Much more likely the Z axis didn't move far enough so there was less space for the filament to go so it squirted out around the sides. This is a VERY COMMON problem. It has many causes including having the bed rub the spool holder (check it out - there's not much space back there) and issues with the bed rubbing something else, or the Z screw having too much play combined with too much friction in the Z bearings. Some people end up getting all new Z parts including the motor, the screw and the rods and the bearings. Others have done some simple fixes like loosening and retightening the Z motor mounting screws.

@oddoutput I think you have inconsistent Z movement. When the bed doesn't move down enough you get slight overextrusion and the layer sticks out a bit. This is less obvious with .1mm layering but this looks more like .05mm layer height. You could try a bunch of things - clean the Z bearings, push up and down on the bed feeling for friction (with power off). You could add a heavy weight to the bed to see if it looks more consistent - around 1kg. Here is much more info: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11123-z-axis-layer-error?page=unread#reply-129204

That "sand in the gears" sound is just the ball bearings falling. I have heard on the forum that it's bad to oil the z rods as that can bum up the bearings. Yes the rods come out the bottom of the printer - it's quite easy to do - that step anyway.

I did some tests recently on the tube from ultimaker and the tube in my store. The tubes were not connected to any printer. I chose filament that had been through the feeder to be as accurate as possible and slid it through the bowden. I used a scale such that the filament stuck out a bit and I held only the bowden and pushed down on the scale until the filament slid. It made a huge difference what the curvature of the bowden was. It made a big difference if the filament was inserted to follow the bowden versus go against the bowden curvature. But I couldn't tell the difference between the 2 materials. So I'm not sure how the 3dsolex bowdens could cause much difference other than the length of the tube. However... every time you change the bowden you have to insert the new one into the print head. There are 2 things that can cause underextursion when you do this: 1) the bowden tends to stop 1mm short at the top of the teflon part. If that happens you have a 1mm gap that filament can get into especially if you have hours of printing and lots of retractions. Getting PLA in that gap can cause underextrusion. 2) If the teflon part isn't new (even if it is), pushing down on it with a few pounds of force from the bowden can make a big difference on the resistance of the plastic through the teflon. Many people have tried loosening the 4 thumb screws one full turn and found that makes a huge difference to fixing underextrusion. Really the proper fix is not to push down so hard when installing the bowden.

Push the head around by hand. I'm wondering if there is excess friction somewhere and the steppers can't provide enough force and loose some steps. That certainly makes a lot of noise. You should be able to push the head around along a single axis with one finger on each opposite block. The most common cause of high friction on a UM2 is if the 2 axis are not perpendicular at the head. This is usually visible just by looking down on the printer. It's easily fixed by loosening two of the pulleys on one side - two connected to the same long belt. Then pushing the head all the way to the end such that both blocks won't go any further and tightening the pulleys back up again while in this position. I agree with Robert - a video really would help quite a bit. You are welcome to come to Boston and I can very likely fix your printer within 20 minutes.

Yes, IC1. It converts 19V to 12V. It is the most likely part that broke. You can power up the board without the arduino and measure the voltage on the 3 pins. The center pin is ground. The other pins are 19V from the power brick and 12V. Also if you short out the power brick it shuts down and won't come back on unless you power it down for a little while and then plug it back in. Ultimaker sells replacement parts. Or search on ebay for "1.5.7 ultimaker". Or other places to shop. Most of these are from China and not very good quality so consider buying 2 if you go that route. This IC1 is a 7812 which gets very hot. There is another version which is a switching regulator that also costs less than 1€ but doesn't get hot. Some people have used that part for their Ultimakers and it seems to work fine.

What country are you in Quiss? Please update your profile as this ... well.. it matters more than you may think! My first thought is you probably didn't update your firmware which is critical. Second thought is that none of the servos should have power when you first power on. Maybe that is fixed when you update the firmware. There is a tiny 3 legged part that converts 19V of the power supply to 12V to power the arduino (which then lowers it to 5V). I'm thinking that 3 legged part may have broken because you may have run it too hot when experimenting - it needs constant fan - if you power up even for only 30 seconds without cooling that part you can destroy it. Fortunately it is pretty cheap - I can tell you more if you live in USA.

Yes I'm sure it's simple. I know you "tightened the rods" but the most likely issue is that one of the 6 pulleys on your X axis is a bit loose. Inside the pulley is a tiny set screw - it is 2mm hex I believe. You need a 2mm hex wrench which should have come with your printer - tighten the hell out of all 6 pulleys on your X axis. The most likely one failing is the one on the X motor. That one is tricky to get to but you should be able to get to it without taking anything apart. You should twist the tool so much that it twists/spirals slightly. Pretty much the max force you can apply with just your fingers. Or maybe a strong persons fingers. You might actually also have to use pliers if you are of mere average adult strength. I think 2 of the 6 pulleys are on the same screw possibly so it might be 5 screws for the X axis plus another 5 or 6 for the Y axis but it looks like the X axis is your main problem. You may have other issues so fix this one first and show us the next problem - I think you are also undrextruding maybe a bit - not sure yet.

The peek part should not melt until around 300C. I'm guessing something went wrong with the temp sensor maybe? Maybe it fell out of the block before you got run away heating?

The UM2 power supply is designed to work with both 120VAC and 240VAC. If it was an AC heated bed you would have to either make 2 beds or use a transformer to lower the current. Also the USA Military determined that truly safe voltages must be under 60V DC or 30V AC. To make the bed AC power and also safe you might want to lower the voltage to 30V max. But now you have a heavy, expensive transformer to achieve this (and with a switch for 120V or 240V mains which adds more danger/complexity) and now it's just cheaper to use a DC power supply. This is my guess.

Often, in cura, people accidentally change "flow" to "1". Which is 1%. You want it to be 100.

It could be any of the 3 answers above but most likely Z issues - the table is a bit sticky and then suddenly moves down too much so it looks like an underextruded layer.

emcodes your problem sounds pretty strange. Not sure what could cause the ulticontroller to dim other than pretty serious electronics issues. So either the main board or the power supply. You should probably open a ticket if this is a new machine.

That sounds like your main problem. That explains the bizarre infill in your pictures.

skinny-kid is one of about 3 people on the forum who live near me and I've met in person. You are welcome to come over to my house for soldering next time if your other soldering friend is busy. That goes for anyone in the forum willing to come to my house in the Boston area!

I liked the quality better when I didn't subtract it from the background and just made the first layer of the white part thicker than the red part. These were 2 different parts printed on top of each other.

Done on an ultimaker2 by switching filaments - no modifications to printer:

I didn't realize it was ABS. I would have the fans come on to the minimum - 25% or 30% for those overhangs. I don't use cura support. I always design my own. This part doesn't absolutely need support although the inside may need some cleanup at the top of the arch. It will definitely need a small amount of fan. ABS is tricky for me - if I use much fan then I don't get good layer bonding unless I raise the temperature. If I raise the temperature too much then I get ABS clogs. I have not printed enough ABS to be good at it. I try to do thicker layers with ABS to get good bonding - .2mm is about right. If a part has no overhangs I do zero fan. If it does have overhangs I do 30% fan. I don't know but I suspect the "support speed" is identical to the "infill speed". Set your speeds as shown in this photo and let me know if they are different.

I have a question for you. I have a new theory that explains some things. I noticed it seems like lots of people have banding due to Z issues in the last few months. Also one guy with 3 UMO+ has the same problem on only one of his machines. He noticed that the machine that is different has a lot of play: when he lifts the bed it moves up and down about 1mm without the shaft having to rotate. This is not true of his other 2 machines. The UMO+ has similar and maybe identical Z nut as the UM2 printers. I'm wondering if there is a new batch of Z nuts (or Z screws) that have more play than the older versions of the hardware. And this is creating Z banding for a number of people (say maybe 2%? Which is a lot when you are as big as Ultimaker). @kwallnation - could you test this? lift the bed and release several times to see if it moves at all. Mine will not move even .01mm without the shaft turning.

It should be amazingly smooth. I don't see how cleaning bowden or feeder will help the Z bearings.